AO Smith heat pump water heater installation


  #1  
Old 08-23-20, 10:43 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 5
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
AO Smith heat pump water heater installation

Looking for some advice on the best way to install an electric heat pump water heater in place of my leaking electric water heater. I attached some photos. Would there be any issues running the condensation line to the air handler condensation line clean out?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/A-O-Smith-S...ump/1000213655

 
  #2  
Old 08-24-20, 11:03 AM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey
Posts: 64,928
Received 3,947 Upvotes on 3,540 Posts
Welcome to the forums.

Are the condensate lines into a floor connection ?
They should go into a drain that is trapped.

If you're tying the WH condensate line into the A/C ones.... you'll need to plumb it so that you can put in an overflow float like what is there form the A/C.
 
skarface voted this post useful.
  #3  
Old 08-24-20, 12:06 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 5
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
So, I can't just run the tubing to the opening in the ac line where that clean out brush is? Or is the drain for the water heater an option?

Also, I'm planning on using sharkbite hoses to connect to the water since the new connections on the side then going to pex. Do I have to use 18 inches or is 12 inches enough? Also is the valve a replacement for an expansion tank? Do I need to add a shut off for the hot water outlet, the manual has a diagram to add one.

Is there a reason for all of the elbows?

Does this valve replace an expansion tank?

Does this valve replace an expansion tank?
 
  #4  
Old 08-25-20, 07:41 AM
A
Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 4,523
Upvotes: 0
Received 277 Upvotes on 253 Posts
A temperature & pressure relief valve is required on a water heater for most plumbing codes but does not substitute for an expansion tank, also required by some city plumbing codes.

An expansion tank is strongly recommended even when not required. Every new tankful of water expands a little when heated and can trip the T&PR valve and get water all over the floor particularly if there is a check valve going back to the water source (city water main)..

The extra elbows in the pipe may reduce eddy currents going up and down within the pipe that cause heat loss between usages of hot water and resulting added energy consumption reheating the water. Not sure whther this was the motive or what the correct pipe geometry is needed. Heat trap nipples, either supplied with the water heater or sold separately, are also intended to reduce such eddy currents.

Sometimes a longer flexible tube is needed because it is difficult to curve a shorter tube to fit even though it is long enough. Having to use too much force or pressure to get the tube to fit can shorten the life of the tube.
 

Last edited by AllanJ; 08-25-20 at 08:00 AM.
  #5  
Old 08-25-20, 11:40 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 5
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I have the temperature and pressure relief valve but was wondering if the extra valve on the cold water side effectively acts as the expansion tank. It looks like its set for 80 psi and has a drain line coming off it.

I think code is 18 inches from PEX to the water heater, just verifying.

Any ideas on where to tap into for the condensate drain?

 
  #6  
Old 08-25-20, 08:31 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey
Posts: 64,928
Received 3,947 Upvotes on 3,540 Posts
Is there a reason for all of the elbows?
They needed to use them to so the lines didn't hit each other.

I would stick with 18" away from water heater.
Cut the horizontal PVC near the floor drain. Install a tee with a short stub up.
There is no shutoff valve needed in the hot water line.

I've seen those "expansion" valves. I don't know if they replace a tank.
They look like they can. The link below discusses it.

Expansion relief valve
 
skarface voted this post useful.
  #7  
Old 08-26-20, 08:49 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 5
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
So, I'm planning on on adding pex elbows at the arrows since everyone I know said it looks terrible hahaha. Is the way I have it against code or just ugly haha? I think I need a pipe support for the shut off valve since its not being supported by the water heater anymore too.

Also, which drain would you referring to? The one from the air handler or the one from the water heater drain pan? Thanks for the help.



 
  #8  
Old 08-26-20, 09:23 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jersey
Posts: 64,928
Received 3,947 Upvotes on 3,540 Posts
I think code is 18 inches from PEX to the water heater, just verifying.
Yes..... but when you asked that I thought you were using copper stubs like on the old water heater.
Are those flex lines rated for direct water heater connection ?

Yes..... you definitely need to clean that up and fasten the pipes to the wall.
Too much stress on the fittings and the pipes will move as the water is turned on and off.

Connect to the line between the A/C and the drain.
 
skarface voted this post useful.
  #9  
Old 08-26-20, 09:49 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 5
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Yeah, it says they are for water heaters. I was thinking of scrapping the pex completely and going completely copper with an elbow at the water heater cold inlet and at the top of the water heater. That might be enough to support the weight of the shut off valve like it used to.

How would you connect things?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBit...18lf/202270647
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: