Rheem rte13 flow switch retrofit


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Old 12-08-22, 04:28 PM
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Rheem rte13 flow switch retrofit

Rheem rte13 electric on demand flow switch is not working. Rheem has no no parts, since they haven't made that unit for 3 yrs. I bought a in line 1/2 inch flow switch off ebay to try. The original had 2 wires, but the universal one has 3. Red, black and yellow (signal) wires. Any thoughts on how to hook it up ?
 
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Old 12-08-22, 05:12 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

I could guess if I knew what you had.
I would like to see a picture of the inside of your unit, a pic of the original flow sensor and the new one.
How to insert pictures.
 
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Old 12-08-22, 07:17 PM
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Thanks, will do pics tomorrow
 
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Old 12-08-22, 07:35 PM
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Is this what you got............ Sensor on amazon ?
 

Last edited by PJmax; 12-09-22 at 01:43 PM. Reason: removed un-needed picture
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Old 12-09-22, 12:21 PM
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Original Rheem flow switch

New flow switch
 
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Old 12-09-22, 12:24 PM
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Old 12-09-22, 12:28 PM
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The orange and blue wires are extensions to go the new flow switch, they are in the location that the original red wires went.
 
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Old 12-09-22, 04:25 PM
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Are you SURE the old sensor switch is bad ?
It's two parts.... a rotary vane with magnet on the inside and the reed switch on the outside.
Those reed switches are very reliable and durable.

So you left the old sensor in place and added a new sensor assembly to the water heater.... is that correct ?

Just so you understand.... the old sensor used a basic reed switch. As the water vane turned inside a magnet traveled with it and that reed switch kept opening and closing. That's it. circuit open.... circuit closed. The faster the water flow.... the faster the open and closing. This is a non powered device. Typically the vane gets stuck with minerals.

Now you've connected a hall magnetic sensing transistor to it that needs power. Water movement will now create a short to either hot or ground. That is not the way the system is designed to work.

First thing I would try to do is to use the old reed with the two wires. You could just connect an ohmmeter to it and sit in place of the other switch to see if the internal magnet is strong enough to activate it.

If you want to get the new one to work you need to use a meter and make some tests. I need to know what you measure from A to ground, B to ground with no connections.



 
 

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