No pilot flame
#1
09-20-23, 08:04 AM
No pilot flame
Per manual I kept the knob depressed and pressed the igniter. No flame. I tried twice, SIL tried twice, still no go. The spark goes sometimes, sometimes not, always faint, sometimes long sometimes short. My plan is to replace the igniter first. If this doesn't work, remove the internals and replace thermocouple, brush clean the area, check/clean orifice. How is this plan? Thank you.
#2
09-20-23, 11:33 AM
Do you hear the gas when you're trying to light it?
Assuming you hear the gas, and you aren't really seeing much of a spark, I'd vote for replacing the ignitor. It's likely not the thermocouple, since it's only used to prove that the pilot is lit - it's not involved in lighting the pilot.
If you don't hear the pilot gas flowing, it is more likely the valve... but the valve doesn't typically go bad as often as the other components.
Assuming you hear the gas, and you aren't really seeing much of a spark, I'd vote for replacing the ignitor. It's likely not the thermocouple, since it's only used to prove that the pilot is lit - it's not involved in lighting the pilot.
If you don't hear the pilot gas flowing, it is more likely the valve... but the valve doesn't typically go bad as often as the other components.
#3
09-20-23, 12:36 PM
Thank you for the suggestion. I didn't know I could hear the gas flow. I will check. Thank you.
#4
09-20-23, 02:02 PM
If you have held the button down for a long time, say more than 30 seconds, you will need to let it go and wait 2 to 3 minutes for the gas in the combustion chamber to dissipate. If you are over 60 years old you may have heard the term "flooding of the carburetor" after pumping the accelerator in an effort to get the car started where you have to crank the starter a little while holding the accelerator all the way down and steady to flush out excess gasoline vapors.
#5
09-20-23, 02:58 PM
Member
If you don't hear the pilot gas flowing, it is more likely the valve... but the valve doesn't typically go bad as often as the other components.
#6
09-20-23, 03:16 PM
Just verified no gas flow when the knob was depressed. Before replacing the main regulator, I have one more question. I remember watching a YouTube. He had the orifice in the pilot gas line plugged up with soots. Is this a higher probability than the main regulator going bad?
#7
09-21-23, 08:48 PM
Group Moderator
How did you verify pilot gas flow ?
You can't hear it.
With sealed combustion burner chambers you can't smell it.
Not sure what that means but your complaint is intermittent spark.
That is not a gas or gas valve problem.
It is not a thermocouple problem.
It could be a loose thermocouple nut on the gas valve causing the igniter to lose ground.
You can't hear it.
With sealed combustion burner chambers you can't smell it.
The spark goes sometimes, sometimes not, always faint, sometimes long sometimes short.
That is not a gas or gas valve problem.
It is not a thermocouple problem.
It could be a loose thermocouple nut on the gas valve causing the igniter to lose ground.
#8
09-22-23, 10:59 PM
I was advised a few posts up I can hear the pilot gas flow. So the absence of hissing sound cannot be the definitive proof that the main valve/regulator is bad. I will check the tightness of the thermocouple nut on the regulator. Thank you.
#9
09-28-23, 03:27 PM
Thank you pjmax. As advised, I removed the burner assembly. I cleaned oxidized areas with steel wool and retightened the pilot line nut, with emphasis on restoring a good metal-to-metal contact on the grounding path.
When the igniter is pressed, spark is short and strong. Now I have the pilot flame and the water heater is working well. Than you again.
When the igniter is pressed, spark is short and strong. Now I have the pilot flame and the water heater is working well. Than you again.
#10
09-28-23, 05:07 PM
Group Moderator
Thanks for letting us know how you made out.
