Water softner clogged??


  #1  
Old 09-24-04, 10:21 AM
masterjoe
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Water softner clogged?? please HELP......

Water pressure has been seriously decreased, and when turned on, lots of sediments come out of all faucets in the house.
I called Water Dept. and they sent out the inspector.
His observation is that 'filter' inside my water softner is probably clogged.
He recommends to bypass the softner, remove the filter and replace it.
I'm not too familiar with the water softner system.
Can someone help me how to do this??
Thanks in advance!!
 
  #2  
Old 09-25-04, 05:34 AM
Mike Swearingen's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Northeastern NC On The Albemarle Sound
Posts: 10,948
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
By "filter" he probably meant the media (little plastic beads) in the smaller tank (not the brine tank where the salt goes).
You can get replacement media at water softener companies.
Bypass the system, disconnect the tank, dump and flush out the old media, and pour in the new.
A softener control head also has little screened ports that can get clogged up. Check those, too. (Unplug or turn off power first.)
The float valve in the brine tank (inside plastic pipe) also can get clogged up with salt residue. If that appears to be a problem, disconnect it, and soak the salt clog out (around the bottom float ball) in a tub of water.
You're also probably going to have to clean all of your sink faucet aerators.
Good Luck!
Mike
 
  #3  
Old 09-25-04, 02:27 PM
G
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 819
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Personally the water company will tell you most anything rather than tell you their water is dirty... So before you do anything, put the softener in by-pass and run your water for say 5-10 gallons. That will use water from the street and flush the sediment out of your plumbing. If the water is still dirty, call'em back and insist that it's not your softener and inform them that there is no "filter" in any softener that can cause the problem. Some softeners like older Culligans have a diffuser that all water going through the unit has to go through but that is not a filter. Some softeners have a top basket that can colllect dirt but that causes water flow reduction, not dirty water. A top basket that is clogged will prevent adequate backwashing and backwashing is the means the softener uses to clean itself (the resin actually) of 'dirt'. And dirt is rarely a sufficient reason to replace resin.

If the water is still dirty after by passing the softener. The softener didn't create the dirt, the water did. But all you have to do is a manual regeneration of the softener and when it gets into backwash, unplug it and let the water run to drain until it gets clear. Backwash is usually the first cycle position where water goes to drain fairly forcefully.

Gary
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Company Name Removed Only
Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2
 

Last edited by Doug Aleshire; 03-11-05 at 06:53 PM.
  #4  
Old 09-27-04, 01:01 PM
masterjoe
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Unhappy Thanks....and few more Q

Thanks a bunch, Mike & Gary...
I actually tested the water after I put into bypass....hasn't seen sediments while water was running for at least an hour.
City water inspector told us that if color of sediments is black, it's most likely from the water softner; is this statement correct??

I also noticed that salt pellets have ran out inside my brine tank, and all I see is some mooshy stuff at the bottom. Would absence of salt contribute to the problem??

If I do what you guys instructed; on top, cleaning out brine tank and fill with fresh salt pellets, would my problem go away??

Thanks again.
 
  #5  
Old 09-28-04, 08:39 AM
G
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 819
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Black is usually from manganese and/or H2S or galvanized pipe/nipples caused by chlorine corrosion of the galvanized material. A softener can't cause that.

If you let your softener run out of salt, it damages the resin and you don't remove hardness etc. from the water. To get the resin bed fully regenerated you have to use the maximum salt dose (15lb) per cubic foot of resin in your unit. And you may have to do that for 2-3 back to back regenerations with no water use between the regenerations.

So yes, no salt and no regeneration can cause your sediment etc. problem plus a softener problem in the future. That future could be now and without replacing the resin you won't get back to where you were. So put it into a manual regeneration and when it gets into backwash, unplug it and let it run that way for say 30 minutes. But first add 5 gallons of water to the salt tank and a bag or two of solar crystal salt (much better than pellets) minimally two hours before doing that. After 30 minutes of backwash, plug it back in and allow it to finish regeneration. Do not use water during that time and then immediately or as soon as possible repeat once.

Gary
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Company Name Removed Only
Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2
 

Last edited by Doug Aleshire; 03-11-05 at 06:53 PM.
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: