Fleck 5600 - problems with brine tank
#1
11-06-04, 01:53 PM
Fleck 5600 - problems with brine tank
When my brine tank fills with water, it runs out the overflow fitting. I emptied the tank to clean the brine pickup tube (float moves freely), slotted brine well, and the square thing that sits on the bottom of the tank with a cutout for the brine well. That didn't solve the problem. Any suggestions?
#2
11-07-04, 09:31 AM
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If you have a 23x0 float controlled brine system something is definately wrong or you wouldn't have the problem. I suspect the 23x0 valve (that's what the floats hangs on) seal is leaking allowing water into the tank. IOWs the float rises but the seal doesn't shut off the water. Can the float rise freely or is it hanging up on the overflow elow parts?
The cause of the water going to the tank is probably the brine valve on the control valve or more likely, it's a bad seal and/or piston and you need a seal and spacer kit anlong with a new piston. They require special tools to replace them. If you're handy you can replace the others yourself. If you don't have a manual
www.fleckcontrols.com has them.
Gary
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Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2
The cause of the water going to the tank is probably the brine valve on the control valve or more likely, it's a bad seal and/or piston and you need a seal and spacer kit anlong with a new piston. They require special tools to replace them. If you're handy you can replace the others yourself. If you don't have a manual
www.fleckcontrols.com has them.
Gary
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Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2
Last edited by Doug Aleshire; 03-11-05 at 08:42 PM.
#3
11-08-04, 10:17 AM
Originally Posted by Gary Slusser
If you have a 23x0 float controlled brine system something is definately wrong or you wouldn't have the problem. I suspect the 23x0 valve (that's what the floats hangs on) seal is leaking allowing water into the tank. IOWs the float rises but the seal doesn't shut off the water. Can the float rise freely or is it hanging up on the overflow elow parts?
The cause of the water going to the tank is probably the brine valve on the control valve or more likely, it's a bad seal and/or piston and you need a seal and spacer kit anlong with a new piston. They require special tools to replace them. If you're handy you can replace the others yourself. If you don't have a manual
www.fleckcontrols.com has them.
Gary
Quality Water Associates
The cause of the water going to the tank is probably the brine valve on the control valve or more likely, it's a bad seal and/or piston and you need a seal and spacer kit anlong with a new piston. They require special tools to replace them. If you're handy you can replace the others yourself. If you don't have a manual
www.fleckcontrols.com has them.
Gary
Quality Water Associates
I have the same problem but with an older Autotrol 255 460i valve. Checking the flow rates during the cycle it seems that there's plenty of water supplied to fill the tank but when it comes to drawing brine, it seems quick slow. Any ideas? During the brine/slow rinse manual setting, it seems to be putting water in the tank. I thought it would only be drawing brine during this time?
Last edited by dkarizona; 11-08-04 at 11:14 AM.
#4
11-09-04, 09:54 PM
Gary,
Can you provide any additional info on the special tools required to replace the spacers and where I can find them. (I checked your website but didn't see any). I took apart the injector/drain module and cleaned it, but can you confirm if the injectors should be loose are relatively tight when reinserted. And lastly, I may have spoken in error in my original post. My brine tank has a plain pick-up tube (Fleck J-tube) with an air check at the bottom. I don't have a safety float.
I would like to upgrade the system to the Clack WS-1 in the spring, but need to keep my current setup operational until then. I took the 5600 valve apart and cleaned everything, but didn't have new o-rings. I'll replace the o-rings next and see what happens.
Thanks for all your support on this forum.
Keith
Can you provide any additional info on the special tools required to replace the spacers and where I can find them. (I checked your website but didn't see any). I took apart the injector/drain module and cleaned it, but can you confirm if the injectors should be loose are relatively tight when reinserted. And lastly, I may have spoken in error in my original post. My brine tank has a plain pick-up tube (Fleck J-tube) with an air check at the bottom. I don't have a safety float.
I would like to upgrade the system to the Clack WS-1 in the spring, but need to keep my current setup operational until then. I took the 5600 valve apart and cleaned everything, but didn't have new o-rings. I'll replace the o-rings next and see what happens.
Thanks for all your support on this forum.
Keith
#5
11-14-04, 04:32 PM
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An Autotrol that allows water to the brine tank when it shouldn't means there's a flapper valve disc needing replacement. To correct that you replace all of them and their little springs.
The control specific Fleck tools are hard to come by and I suspect most dealers wounldn't sell them.
Gary
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Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2
The control specific Fleck tools are hard to come by and I suspect most dealers wounldn't sell them.
Gary
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Company Name Removed Only
Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2
Last edited by Doug Aleshire; 03-11-05 at 08:42 PM.
#6
11-15-04, 09:24 AM
Originally Posted by Gary Slusser
An Autotrol that allows water to the brine tank when it shouldn't means there's a flapper valve disc needing replacement. To correct that you replace all of them and their little springs.
The control specific Fleck tools are hard to come by and I suspect most dealers wounldn't sell them.
Gary
Quality Water Associates
The control specific Fleck tools are hard to come by and I suspect most dealers wounldn't sell them.
Gary
Quality Water Associates
Even before I read your reply, I read elsewhere it's probably the in/out valves not being shutoff during brining that's probably the problem. It makes sense since there now seems to be no part of the regeneration phase that seeems to suck (vacuuum) the brine from the tank.
Instead of fiddling with a rebuild kit I decided to just buy a new valve assembly (keeping the controller I have) and replace that as a whole.
