Help! Unknown Softner [inlet verus outlet?]


Old 11-25-05, 10:00 AM
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Unhappy Help! Unknown Softner [inlet verus outlet?]

Doing some major re-work on my plumbing and moved the softener in the process. I didn't make a note of which side was inlet and which was outlet. Surely it must be marked, right? Wrong! Duh - now I am ready to reinstall it and don't know what I've got.

It's an older Bruner/Calgon DU715F with remote brine tank. The mineral tank has a removable connection head with a sliding bypass valve. Neither the removable head nor the mineral tank top is marked.

No info on the web on this model (circa 1978!), and I have not called them yet. I've examined the removable head and the mineral tank head and I don't see a clue that would make me believe which side is input.

If you have any ideas, please post!
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Old 11-26-05, 08:05 AM
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Found it - here's how

How did we live without Google? Even though I did some searching before posting my question, posting it may have given me some searching insights because here is what I found...

There are many "manufacturers" of water softeners. In reality, there are only two real manufacturers of the control valves - "Fleck" and "Autotrol". After looking at pictures, I determined mine was an old Autotrol, now owned by G.E.

G.E. is one of those great companies that feels the need to document the hell out of everything (thank you), so after awhile, I found an Autotrol 155 which was out of production, and only "close" to mine, whatever mine is.

After looking at the inlet/outlet/brine/injector locations and the general flapper valve layout, I was able to determine which side was the inlet and which was the outlet.

Regrettably, my research also uncovered the fact that timer-based softeners can both waste water and not provide enough softened water at times. So I am going to re-connnect it, but save my nickles for a sensing type later.

BTW - there is enough stuff out there where you could literally build your own softener to meet your exact specs!
Old 12-25-05, 04:00 PM
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One simple way to determine which is inlet on a used softener is to look at the condition of the inside of the pipe. The inlet will always be 'dirtier' than the outlet. If they are both dirty, then your softener isn't working...or not all the time.

You're right, timer models are very inefficient, they almost never get it right. A demand model is a little more efficient but can still regenerate too late or too early. A twin tank system is the most efficient. It provides you with the best salt usage and a continuous supply of soft water. It is well worth the vale of the extra cost. They also regenerate with soft water and use soft water in the brine tank. All-in-all, the best way to go.

Keep doing your homework.
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