Sears Softener runs, but still no softwater
#1
07-10-06, 07:00 PM
Sears Softener runs, but still no softwater
My 7 year old Sears/Kenmore demand water softener (Model 625.348420) never produced softwater consistently. I recently followed the instructions on this site and replaced all the seals and O-rings plus a new Rotor and assembled them back with plenty of silicone grease. I can cycle the valve manually and it goes through all the cycles properly including proper brining. I have used both Kenmore Softener cleaner (#34426) and Pro Softener Mate (city & well water formula) in the brining tank to clean the resin from iron deposits etc. And the water from softener is still 200 ppm hard, using test kit that uses solution drops . I use city water, which I believe is about 200 ppm hard.
Other than getting rid of this unit and buying a Fleck or Clack based unit, is there a solution to fix this unit so that it will produce soft water?
Thanks for all your past suggestions and look forward to your solution to my problem.
Other than getting rid of this unit and buying a Fleck or Clack based unit, is there a solution to fix this unit so that it will produce soft water?
Thanks for all your past suggestions and look forward to your solution to my problem.
Last edited by gusman1; 07-27-06 at 11:58 AM.
#2
07-10-06, 10:45 PM
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You mentioned that the softener never produced soft water consistently. Depending on how many people are in your household, your softener may be undersized for the application; whereby you will run out of soft water well before the regeneration and the resin bed will never give you any reserve capacity. The other reason is the softener's hardness setting may be incorrect or the water is harder than your test results (are you using test strips or titration to determine the degree of water hardness?).
Good luck with the unit.
Art
Good luck with the unit.
Art
#3
07-11-06, 06:37 AM
It is not capacity or setting issue
Thanks for your reply Art. It is not a capacity issue or hardness setting problem. Water tested right after regeneration (using solution drop method) still has 200 ppm hardness.
Can the resin be not softening for some reason? Could using some chemical resurrect its potency?
If I have to change out the resin, does anybody knows how to remove the plastic clamps around the tank without breaking it?
Can the resin be not softening for some reason? Could using some chemical resurrect its potency?
If I have to change out the resin, does anybody knows how to remove the plastic clamps around the tank without breaking it?
#4
07-11-06, 11:02 PM
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Well, you've used "Softener Mate" and followed all routine troubleshooting steps but the unit has never softened water for you. After reading both messages, I'm a little confused as to the testing method. The first message mentioned the test kit using "rain water" for "calibration." The 2nd message spoke of the solution drop method. Most solution drop hardness kits utilize titration to determine the degree of water hardness in "gpg" or grains per gallon, not ppm or mg/L. Are you using test strips or titration to determine your water hardness in and out of the system?
As for my gut without seeing anything in person, if your city uses chlorine treatment to disinfect your water, then the resin could have been fouled by chlorine rendering the resin useless. At some point, the unit causes a significant water pressure loss and the resine has the potential to blow out of the system into the house - not good.
We in the industry refer to Sears units as "disposable softeners" because it is usually cheaper to replace them than to do major service on them. The Clack WS control valve is a great upgrade if you wish to consider a replacement. You'll be able to find it thru many dealers.
Good luck out there.
Art
As for my gut without seeing anything in person, if your city uses chlorine treatment to disinfect your water, then the resin could have been fouled by chlorine rendering the resin useless. At some point, the unit causes a significant water pressure loss and the resine has the potential to blow out of the system into the house - not good.
We in the industry refer to Sears units as "disposable softeners" because it is usually cheaper to replace them than to do major service on them. The Clack WS control valve is a great upgrade if you wish to consider a replacement. You'll be able to find it thru many dealers.
Good luck out there.
Art
