water softener continuously running


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Old 08-28-06, 07:42 AM
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water softener continuously running

I have a Culligan water softener that has started to run continuously. Can anyone give me an idea on the cause and how to repair it? Thanks
 
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Old 08-28-06, 10:00 AM
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First, put the softener in bypass so you're not wasting water. There should be a bypass valve in the water feed to the softener. But remember, while the softener is in bypass you'll be getting hard water to the house and all the plumbing and fixtures. If you have an RO unit it won't like the hard water for long so getting the softener back on line quickly is to your benefit.

How long have you had the softener or how long has it been in service? A little more info than "Culligan water softener" would help a lot also. How about a model number?

By saying "started to run continuously" do you mean that service water is running to the softener drain?

If yes, then the control valve has probably hung up during a stage of regeneration. Could be the motor failed or the control is stuck.

Either way, you'll need parts and maybe a special tool to disassemble the control valve. Might be time to rebuild the control valve.

Have you called your local Culligan dealer and asked then about the problem? A service call from a competent tech will be the quickest resolution to your problem.
 

Last edited by justalurker; 08-28-06 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 08-29-06, 06:46 AM
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water softener continuously running

Justalurker Thank you for your reply. The water softener is a Culligan Mark 100 and is approx 10 years old.
I'm not sure where the water is running. All I can tell is that when it is off bypass I can hear and see water movement in the drain line. Also, I had previously cleaned the salt tank and put 2 40lb bags of salt in it and it was completely used overnight - nothing but water left in the tank. I think the motor is ok because when I push the regen. button it will begin the process.
I guess I will finally have to call Culligan but wanted to get an idea of what the problem was and if it was simple enough that I could repair it myself. I appreciate your response. Thanks
 
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Old 08-29-06, 08:06 AM
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Good diagnosis, with water running to drain it is an internal control valve problem. If the motor is working then it's a seal or piston type problem.

After 10 years of service it deserves a service call. I seem to remember reading somewhere about an upgrade kit for the Mark 100 but don't quote me. Ask Culligan.

Call the Culligan Man/Woman and get that Mark 100 back online. Amortize the cost of repair over the next 10 years and enjoy your soft water.

One tip, only keep enough salt in the brine tank to cover the water. That will cut down on salt bridging at the bottom of the tank and get you in the habit of taking a look into the brine tank more often.

Let us know how it works out.
 

Last edited by justalurker; 08-29-06 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 08-31-06, 11:48 AM
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[QUOTE=teddysplace]I have a Culligan water softener that has started to run continuously. Can anyone give me an idea on the cause and how to repair it? Thanks[/QUOTE


I had exactly this same problem. Try replacing the SealPack. This comes in kit form ($114.00 Canadian). The SealPack is a piston assembly with a series of o-rings. If there is dirt or a faulty o-ring in this assembly, the piston will not seat and the unit will run continuously. I had no further problems after this repair. Cautions: Make sure all o-rings are lubricated with silicone (only) and read instructions carefully. Procedure is straight forward. You will need Snap Ring Pliers and few regular tools.
 
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Old 07-31-09, 09:45 PM
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Culligan Mark 100 soft-minder

Hi

Our softener is about 15 years old on well water. For the most part, it has worked fine. I found if I add one bag of Rust remover to 3 bags of salt there is very little rust buildup in the house and the wife doesn't complain about her hair turning orange.

Now, my problem. A couple months ago I had to replace our well tank. Since then, it seems the softener regenerates but am getting a lot of rust in the house and the slick feeling in the shower is long gone. When the water first came back on, we had some black water in the house for the first few minutes, so I figured the valve was plugged somewhere.

I took off the valve, rinsed it out in the bath tub, pulled everything apart I could find to take out, cleaned everything I could. I had a lot of black pieces in the but when I was done, but nothing big enough that it would seem to plug the entire unit. This seemed to help for about one shower, then back to the same thing.

The salt level does not seem to be dropping, even though I have manually regenerated it multiple times. I have not added salt since the well tank was replaced, I thought maybe the screen in the bottom of the brine tank was plugged so I took it to the car wash and sprayed it with high water pressure, still no better.

The softener is working to some degree because if I bypass the unit, you can see the water turn orange in the house. But it is not working as it should because the toilet, shower and sinks are getting very rusty and there is no slick feeling in the shower.

Should I try clearing the valve again? Is there something or some place I should pay special attention?

Thanks for your time.

Tom
 
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Old 08-01-09, 07:39 AM
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Go to the super market and in the cleaning section there is a product called Super Iron out. It's a powder. Buy it and follow the directions for a first time cleaning.
 
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Old 08-03-09, 05:21 PM
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Biermech: I tried the iron out, took off the main head/valve, took it apart, soaked it in the bucket of Iron Out, got some black sludge when I was done, but nothing major.

The drain line flowed full pressure, it was more like a trickle before, but it apparently isn't sucking brine.

Any more thoughts?

Thanks again for your help!
 
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Old 08-03-09, 05:36 PM
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A no brine draw is cause by: broken venturi, clogged venturi,
broken brine line causing the unit to draw air, or a blocked drain line.
Put the unit in a draw cycle. Disconnect the brine line from the unit. If you have water coming out of the brine connector, the venturi may be clogged or broken.
 
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Old 08-03-09, 05:45 PM
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Biermech: Thanks for the fast response!!!

What/where is the venturi?

How do I put the unit in a draw cycle?

The drain line isn't blocked, I took it loose from the unit and can blow through it easily, plus after my last dis-assembly and cleaning the water flowed great, as opposed to the trickle I got prior to my last cleaning.

Thanks for your fast response!!!

Tom
 
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Old 08-04-09, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by TwLloyd View Post
Biermech:
What/where is the venturi?
The venturi is located behind the brine line connection on the valve. It's purpose is to create a suction which will draw the salt water freom the brine tank into the unit to regenerate the resin. I looked for a Culligan manual, but could not find one that shows the internal parts.


Originally Posted by TwLloyd View Post
How do I put the unit in a draw cycle?
If you have an electronic model, look for a button that says regen or flush. Push and hold for 3-5 sec. If it's an electrical mechanical one, there should be a label the reads regen with a handle that you push downward. Can you e-mail me a picture? It would help.
 
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Old 08-04-09, 08:30 PM
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Progress

I partially took it apart again this evening, poked around with a tooth pick in the injector/throat and it felt like I pushed something through. I started it regenerating and checked it later and the brine tank was empty of water, so whatever I did, seemed to take care of the issue.

After it regenerated, I ran the kitchen tap for a few minutes. It feels like there is soft water now, but I noticed a different odor. Not longer was the metalic smell, but now a funky dirty sock smell and it has an odd taste. I will try regenerating again and hopefully things will be better by morning.

Thanks again for all your help!!!
 
 

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