Brine valve not drawing Potasium Permangenate


  #1  
Old 09-04-06, 11:50 AM
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Question Brine valve not drawing Potasium Permangenate

I have an iron filter that I have just replaced a fitting that connects the brine valve tubing to the brine valve. Now I am not getting any draw to fill the iron filter with Potassium Permangenate.

What do I need to look for to fix this?
 
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Old 09-04-06, 12:20 PM
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AFAIK there is no "brine valve" or "brine valve tubing" on an iron filter with potassium permangenate.

Do you mean the valve that is in what would be a brine tank in a water softener but is the potassium permangenate tank in an iron filter?

Would that "brine" tubing be going from the valve in the potassium permangenate tank to the control valve on the mineral tank?

It worked fine but the fitting leaked?

After you replaced the fitting it won't draw?

If the answers to those questions are yes then ... double check what you did and make sure you used the right fitting. Any air leak at that fitting or anywhere along the tube and the control valve will not draw.

Remember, you won't get draw from the potassium permangenate tank until the filter is in regeneration. The filter only draws when it is regenerating the media and not when it's sitting there filtering the iron out. Did you do a manual regeneration after you fixed the fitting and check for draw or just assume it wasn't drawing?
 

Last edited by justalurker; 09-04-06 at 01:24 PM.
  #3  
Old 09-05-06, 06:36 PM
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Reply

I know it's not 'quote' a "brine" valve but it works the same way. If a softener isn't drawing brine, the same problem would apply here (I believe).

In my post, I had checked the operation at the point where potasium permangenate should draw.

Answers to your four questions; yes, yes, yes (I believe the fitting leaked and overflowed the potasium permangenate holding tank), yes

So, you are saying an air leak would cause no draw. Wouldn't an air leak also cause water to flow out the leak when the unit hit the potasium permangenate 'fill' cycle?

What are the possible causes of the unit not drawing potasium permangenate?
 
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Old 09-05-06, 08:18 PM
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If an air leak in the "brine line" then you'd see bubbles and no liquid when the filter regenerates (if the tubing is clear and not colored).

The "brine" line or the pickup in the "brine" tank could be plugged. The control valve sucks during regen but not not super suck ... check that line for an obstruction or kink.

Also, check the screen and venturi where the "brine" line enters the control valve. Could be plugged up.
 
  #5  
Old 11-03-07, 11:53 PM
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Same Problem

I am experiencing a similar situation to what this guy described. When I unscrew the line from the pot perm tank during the "brine draw" step, water dribbles out of the line rather than any sucking. During the brine tank refill step water shoots out of the line no problem. Any ideas why my line is NOT sucking? After 60 minutes of the brine draw/slow rinse step there is no lowering of pot perm at all. Thanks for any advice
 
  #6  
Old 11-03-07, 11:58 PM
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Air Leak?

I found this link below goes into some detail describing how
an air leak is probably the problem.
http://www.caitechnologies.com/image...air%20leak.pdf

Originally Posted by jjamison View Post
I am experiencing a similar situation to what this guy described. When I unscrew the line from the pot perm tank during the "brine draw" step, water dribbles out of the line rather than any sucking. During the brine tank refill step water shoots out of the line no problem. Any ideas why my line is NOT sucking? After 60 minutes of the brine draw/slow rinse step there is no lowering of pot perm at all. Thanks for any advice
 
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Old 11-04-07, 01:18 AM
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Problem continues

The link I mentioned below is a good one, but I'm still having problems with my Fleck 7000.
I disconnected my line from the pot perm and submerged the end in a bucket of water to observe what happens. Clear water comes OUT of the line from the valve during step two "brine" draw! I ran the valve to step 5 "brine" refill three times and let a five gallon bucket fill each time in hopes some air in the valve might be screwing things up. No such luck. I've reset the connection between the line and the valve a couple of times and it seems solid. I'm out of ideas. Water comes out in a rush at the beginning of the "brine" draw and then slows to a pressurized trickle. When I put my finger over the end I have to exert a little pressure to keep the water from flowing out. Absolutely no suction. Any help?


Originally Posted by jjamison View Post
I found this link below goes into some detail describing how
an air leak is probably the problem.
http://www.caitechnologies.com/image...air%20leak.pdf
 
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Old 11-04-07, 02:00 AM
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As a note, when I received this unit the cycle cam had been knocked off the gear box assembly and I heard it rattling around inside. Later I found the gear box assembly had been dislodged such that the posts coming off the gears were not fitted into the slots such that the lower valve post was not moving in and out. After replacing the cycle cam and sliding the gear box assembly in place the unit appeared to work except for the ďbrineĒ (in this case pot perm) does not draw.

I did a master reset of the programming and removed and examined the gear box assembly, but no luck.

The only thoughts I have are:
a) the valve is somehow fouled with air that I canít dislodge.
b) the injector screen is plugged, could that cause these symptoms?
c) the valve is defective

Please let me know what you think.
thanks



Originally Posted by jjamison View Post
The link I mentioned below is a good one, but I'm still having problems with my Fleck 7000.
I disconnected my line from the pot perm and submerged the end in a bucket of water to observe what happens. Clear water comes OUT of the line from the valve during step two "brine" draw! I ran the valve to step 5 "brine" refill three times and let a five gallon bucket fill each time in hopes some air in the valve might be screwing things up. No such luck. I've reset the connection between the line and the valve a couple of times and it seems solid. I'm out of ideas. Water comes out in a rush at the beginning of the "brine" draw and then slows to a pressurized trickle. When I put my finger over the end I have to exert a little pressure to keep the water from flowing out. Absolutely no suction. Any help?
 
  #9  
Old 11-04-07, 10:12 AM
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Well, I feel like there may be one less do it yourselfer in the world after my latest experiences.

My final idea was to check the injector valve on the Fleck 7000 to see if could somehow be fouled. I broke the H clip trying to remove it. One leg is still in place so the injector cover isnít going anywhere. So then I thought Iíd remove the valve completely so I could work on it out of the crawlspace and I broke an H clip on the bypass. I imagine someone with more experience working with these clips could have better luck (see message from doityourself.com below). Perhaps what I should do is relieve the tank pressure as suggested. Iím leaving as is for now.

Iíll wait first to find out if there is any solution to my pot perm not drawing. If I could fix that I could leave everything in place.

Alternately, I just remembered, I have a Fleck 5600 stored that was on my softening tank before I replaced it with the 6600. Iím tempted to give up on the 7000 go back to something thatís been tried and true to me. Would the Fleck 5600 serve as an appropriate valve for my MTM tank? The notes I see on the unit say Injector: 1, Drain Flow 2.4, and salt setting 9 lbs.

Iím open to any suggestions as to why my 7000 is not drawing brine, advice on removing H clips, and thoughts on using the Fleck 5600 instead. Mostly, I could use a few kind words.

Thanks

Quoted content:

Yes the red "H" clip is tricky to get out. What I do is
push it out from the back side evenly. I'll take a couple
of small screw drivers and work them in back and forth on
the back of the "H" clip. Be sure not to put any pressure
on the clip retainer itself. I have broken clips in the
past with this method but not often. And even if it breaks,
it inserts properly and still does it's job.

The main thing to do is release the pressure from the tank.
Do this by setting the bypass for no inlet water and leaving
the other side of the bypass open. Press the manual regeneration
button and wait for the sound of the water flowing out to die down.
Then it should be safe to place the outlet side of the valve to
bypass and remove the "H" clip.
 
  #10  
Old 11-07-07, 10:33 PM
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Fleck 7000 and Pot Perm

This is turning out to be more a blog as nobody has responded to my latest troubles, so I'll just provide an update. And ask one more question just in case somebody out there might have an answer.

The folks that sold me the Fleck 7000 felt that it might have been shipped with the wrong injector and as I have had zero luck with the H clips and as the timing programming seems incompatible with my 5600s (12 day) and my 6600 (elapsed day), I'm going to ship it back minus 25% restocking fee.

Instead I'm going to use an extra 5600 I have for this MTM tank. It is already setup for water softening the same size tank. Anybody have any suggestions on the injector throat, DLFC button, and BLFC button that would be most appropriate for a 10x47 MTM tank?

thanks a bunch
 
  #11  
Old 11-11-07, 09:53 AM
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Just in case anyone might ever need this info, to convert my 5600 softener to a MTM tank I've been told I will need a gray injector throat and nozzle... and will also need to change the DLFC to a 5.0 GPM button...and the BLFC button to a 0.5 gpm button.
 
 

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