Sediment filter and PH Neutralizer
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Sediment filter and PH Neutralizer
Best place for my Cuno water filter: before or after the PH Neutralizer tank??
Also, is it okay per most codes to simply let the backwash cycle discharge direct to the outside since it is basically potable well water?
Pete
Also, is it okay per most codes to simply let the backwash cycle discharge direct to the outside since it is basically potable well water?
Pete
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Gives us a little more detail on the exact type of equipment (single tank backwashing, timers/demand, up flow static tanks, etc.) you have and the water test results including iron, pH, hardness, TDS.
How many people using the water and what size pipe coming from the pressure tank?
Are you using calcite, calcite/mag-oxide, soda ash, sodium-hydroxide too raise the pH?
Thanks
Andy
How many people using the water and what size pipe coming from the pressure tank?
Are you using calcite, calcite/mag-oxide, soda ash, sodium-hydroxide too raise the pH?
Thanks
Andy
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Single tank with a metered Fleck valve (3/4" ports), set for backwash at 1500 gallons--unit was from the Water Pharmacy and what they recommended for my mildly acidic well water (don't have the exact PH, but it wasn't a severe problem). Calcite and gravel mix. Filter is a Cuno 1M1 (industrial version, 3/4" compression fittings) uses standard 9-3/4" cartridges) for sediment. Outside facets are plumbed before any of the bypass ball valve system for the filter/neutralzers--only the household water is going to be treated.
No iron or hardwater issues. I'm just curious where the best location for the sediment filter is. I suspect on the output, since that would filter any media that passes through? With nothing concrete to go on, its going where it's easiest to plumb it in.
Pete
No iron or hardwater issues. I'm just curious where the best location for the sediment filter is. I suspect on the output, since that would filter any media that passes through? With nothing concrete to go on, its going where it's easiest to plumb it in.
Pete
Last edited by radioconnection; 10-13-06 at 06:01 PM.
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What types of sediment are you attempting to remove? Have you samples taken from, say, faucet aerators? What do they look like? If they are white and chunky, they may be tiny pieces of calcite that has somehow slipped through the system?
If they are dark and metallic, they may be piece of copper or other metals being decimated by low pH reaction.
Or it may be sand, black power, organics and a host of other elements.
The AN system actually acts as a filtration device to a degree. I am assuming that the service is downflow and backwash, upflow. Any particulates coming from the well, especially those visible, will cake on the top of the calcite bed and wash out (depending on specific gravity of the sediment and gpm/in2 of the tank' media).
Putting a filter before the AN unit will help prevent build up in the valve and keep the media cleaner. This filter will clog more rapidly and need to be replaced accordingly. As it starts to clog, the backwash force will decrease and make the AN less efficient.
It the AN unit does have enough backwashing force the calcite can solidify (cementing) and become less effective and a dump-n-rebed may be needed.
If you place after the unit, it will last longer or you could use a finer micron rating.
Either way, there will be some pressure drop and regualar maintenance involved.
As for 'hard water issues' a calcite system WILL raise hardness 1-3 grain for every point in the pH scale. Thuis will have no effect on your filter, though.
Andy
If they are dark and metallic, they may be piece of copper or other metals being decimated by low pH reaction.
Or it may be sand, black power, organics and a host of other elements.
The AN system actually acts as a filtration device to a degree. I am assuming that the service is downflow and backwash, upflow. Any particulates coming from the well, especially those visible, will cake on the top of the calcite bed and wash out (depending on specific gravity of the sediment and gpm/in2 of the tank' media).
Putting a filter before the AN unit will help prevent build up in the valve and keep the media cleaner. This filter will clog more rapidly and need to be replaced accordingly. As it starts to clog, the backwash force will decrease and make the AN less efficient.
It the AN unit does have enough backwashing force the calcite can solidify (cementing) and become less effective and a dump-n-rebed may be needed.
If you place after the unit, it will last longer or you could use a finer micron rating.
Either way, there will be some pressure drop and regualar maintenance involved.
As for 'hard water issues' a calcite system WILL raise hardness 1-3 grain for every point in the pH scale. Thuis will have no effect on your filter, though.
Andy