Dirty water after backwash


  #41  
Old 10-13-07, 07:21 PM
J
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Latest

Hi everybody! I hope youíve missed me. Last night my softener doublebackwased with twist of resup for the first time and also itís been about five days since my last tweak. At point of use my water has been quite nice. As you can see from my picture, the color is not crystal clear, but much improved the morning after the softener backwashed.

I let the water run for two or three more minutes and tested using a Hach total Iron kit I got in addition to the iron kit suggested. I like having the two kits as one works for higher levels and one for lower. The water tested at about .3ppm iron. Iíll check my point of use iron levels again tomorrow. Usually my point of use iron levels are close to zero. I guess they still run high after the softener backwash.

I tested my chlorine levels today post retention and found that if anything, my levels are too high. I tested at about 1.5ppm. I understand that too high levels could saturate my Centaur carbon as well as cause other problems. I will continue to monitor the chlorine and bring it down to .5ppm.

I ran about three minutes of backwash through my two filters and softener and none of the backwashed water looked dark.

I tested my post retention iron levels today three times and found about 5ppm each time.

Thanks for any suggestions!


 
  #42  
Old 10-13-07, 07:54 PM
J
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Iron

Regarding my post below:

Should I work to improve the iron mitigation of the chlorination process? 5ppm iron remains after chlorinating and retention. Or should I continue to tweak my backwashing cycles? Should my calcite, carbon, and softener be able to handle 5ppm iron? Or do I need another filter? Thanks!
 
  #43  
Old 10-13-07, 08:43 PM
G
Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Utah
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Clearer water

After your first cleaning with products like Res-up, Pro-rescare, Hydroclear or Pur-Gard on a bed that has been exposed to metals, you will have a large-scale dumping of metallic ions in your discharge water. It shouldn't get into your service water unless the rinse is inadequate.

Give your system another full regeneration tonight and retest tomorrow again.
 
  #44  
Old 10-14-07, 05:14 AM
J
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Iron

My 6600 completed another regeneration/backwash cycle at 4:40 am this morning (I set it to begin at 2:30 am). I waited 20 minutes after cycle completion and then filled the tub about half full. The water looked just about like it did after the first regeneration and tested at about .5ppm iron. At 5:40 I decided to test again. No water had been run since 4:40am. I filled the tub about 3/4 full and took samples from the running water. The first test was again about .5ppm, but as the tub filled the water became more clear and the second test was
 
  #45  
Old 10-14-07, 10:40 AM
G
Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Utah
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Cycle time adjustments

Add 10 minutes to your brine/rinse
Add 5 minutes to your 2nd backwash
Add 5 minutes to your rapid rinse
Add 2 minutes to your timed brine refill

Regen again
 
  #46  
Old 10-14-07, 06:30 PM
J
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Iron

Aaaaaaahhh!
Will do! Will report back soon, thanks!
 
  #47  
Old 10-14-07, 06:49 PM
J
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Iron

Just to make sure we are on the same page my modified settings are now:
1 10
2 85
3 15
4 20
5 15
6 OFF (My programming chart says "step #6 is not presently used and must be canceled.")
thanks!
 
  #48  
Old 10-14-07, 08:21 PM
J
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yikes

Yikes, I wonder if I've missed something. I was reviewing the parts list for my 6600 and I noticed that there are two item 21s: part number 17438 cycle cam (downflow brining, black, single backwash) and part number 40609 cycle cam (downflow brining, blue, double backwash). I assumed that single vs. double backwash was only a matter of programming. I don't need a particular cycle cam to double backwash, do I? thanks
 
  #49  
Old 10-14-07, 08:31 PM
J
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I just took off the front panel and found my cam is black.


Originally Posted by jjamison View Post
Yikes, I wonder if I've missed something. I was reviewing the parts list for my 6600 and I noticed that there are two item 21s: part number 17438 cycle cam (downflow brining, black, single backwash) and part number 40609 cycle cam (downflow brining, blue, double backwash). I assumed that single vs. double backwash was only a matter of programming. I don't need a particular cycle cam to double backwash, do I? thanks
 
  #50  
Old 10-14-07, 08:38 PM
G
Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Utah
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Cams

Black cam won't do your double backwash at all
I ASSumed that you had the DFDBW cam.

Change programming as follows:-

Cycle 1 - 10
Cycle 2 - 90
Cycle 3 - 25
Cycle 4 - 15
Cycle 5 - OFF
Cycle 6 - OFF
 
  #51  
Old 10-14-07, 09:36 PM
J
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
iron

I'll order the cam! Seems like Fleck should include both cams with the unit and maybe a note or comment in the installation section of the manual. Live and learn!

Originally Posted by greg-cws View Post
Black cam won't do your double backwash at all
I ASSumed that you had the DFDBW cam.

Change programming as follows:-

Cycle 1 - 10
Cycle 2 - 90
Cycle 3 - 25
Cycle 4 - 15
Cycle 5 - OFF
Cycle 6 - OFF
 
  #52  
Old 10-14-07, 10:42 PM
J
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Iron

I have changed my programming to reflect a single backwash.
I have requested/ordered a double backwash cam.
I'll try to beat my wife to the water in the morning and report on what I find. I feel like I'm learning a lot. Thanks for sticking with me.

Once I have this system stabilized would it be reasonable to consider adding another 10x47 tank with a Fleck 7000 and .4 to .8 cu ft. of Pyrolox? I really like the idea of a media that does not require regeneration other than backwashing. KDF-85 seem awfully heavy. Sorry, I'm just dying to get creative.

Thanks!
 
  #53  
Old 10-15-07, 05:12 PM
G
Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Utah
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Iron remover

I quite like the KDF-85, but it is indeed heavy and quite costly. Pyrolox will work fine.

0.75ft3 would be a good bed volume.

Optimal pH range for Pyrolox is 6.5+, so install it after the calcite, but before the centaur, so that it can get some oxidative assistance from the chlorine.
 
  #54  
Old 10-15-07, 06:52 PM
J
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Patience

Thanks for indulging my creativity. Strangely, I may be a little addicted to fiddling with my water filtration system.

I'm going to be patient and learn as much as I can about the system I have now and how it functions over time before I change anything. Adding Corosex will be next and I'm going to wait at least two more softener backwashes before I do that.

A drawback of adding a tank would be that every time a filter tanks is added a pressure loss is incurred, right? I'm looking at the service flow pressure drop graph that the pyrolox folks provide and it's not all that clear to me. Would it be fair to guess that a tank of .7 cu ft. of Pyrolox might result in about 5 psi loss in pressure?

Also I'm sure service flow rate is affected by friction and turbulence incurred by plumbing and valves, but maybe to a lesser degree? My plumbing up to and between my filters is all one inch. Unfortunately, my valves are 3/4 inch. I'll make sure and get 1 and 1/4 inch valves from now on.

I'm going to go get one of those screw on pressure gages and attach it to a hose outlet see what my pressure loss currently is.

Also, I'm reading that I might need to backwash the Pyrolox every night. That might be a lot of backwashing I would be doing. I'd have my calcite backwashing every other night, my Centaur every 4-6 days, my softener every 6-7 days, and the Pyrolox every night. That'd be two backwashes a night more often than not. Have you encountered systems with that much backwashing going on?

Okay, I'll try not to post until my softener backwashes again so you (everybody) will have a respite for a few days! My wife told me that if I quit my job to become a water chemist she'd kill me. I've been drooling over the cool gadgets in the Hach catalog I recently received. She's probably safe, I never much enjoyed balancing chemical equations.

All my best! thanks!
 
  #55  
Old 10-19-07, 07:37 PM
J
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Pressure loss

As a note, I was surprised to find I only have about a 4psi loss across my filtration system and plumbing.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: