Fleck 7000 vs 5600


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Old 10-29-07, 02:29 PM
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Question Fleck 7000 vs 5600

I've been doing research on water softeners and have spent hours learning from posts on this site. I'm going with a Fleck SE control valve and have read there are additional features that the 7000 has over the 5600. The 5600 has the track record but what specifically does the 7000 have over the 5600?

I see that the 7000 comes with 1" or 1 1/4" valve connection and the 5600 has a 3/4" or 1". If I have a 3/4" supply line can I even use the 7000? If so, will I reduce the flow ratings and hamper the effectiveness of the regeneration cycle?

I'm installing it in the basement and don't have a drain pipe that I can tie into with an air gap. I have a drain for my washing machine directly above on the first floor. Can I run the drain hose directly up about 8 to 10 feet?

Sorry about all the questions but I'm a newby and want to make sure everything works as it should.
 
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Old 10-29-07, 05:05 PM
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5600 -vs - 7000

Both valves will work fine on a 3/4" main.

On a 3/4" main, the only major advantage that the 7000 platform has is variable brining.

Drainage won't be an issue at all with either valve if you have at least 40psi influent pressure.
 
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Old 01-18-08, 01:30 AM
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I'm facing the same problem now, as I'd like to replace my old timer based Culligan.

My in and out pipes are 3/4", so the 7000's 1.25" doesn't offer any advantage in this regard.

Since the 5600SE and 7000 cost the same, I can't decide which one to get. I'm leaning toward the 7000 since it is newer, so I'd assume the design should be more refined. Also, the 7000 looks like it has fewer parts and easier to take a part if repairs are needed.

My only hesitations on the 7000 are:
- it is newer, so logevity hasn't been proven yet
- more plastic, especially the bypass valve. I like the SS value better (since to me metal lasts longer and is stronger)

Can anybody comment on the above and why I should get the 5600SE instead of the 7000? Also, this will go into the garage agaist the wall, so I'd like to place it as close to the wall as possible. Can anybody comment on which one will give a closer install against a wall?

I'm also concerned about the soldering with respect to the bypass valve. Since I want the install to be as close to the wall as possible, I want the shortest tail as possible, but will risk damaging the valve when heating the 90 degree elbow for the in/out down pipes.
 
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Old 01-18-08, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ckcwong View Post
My only hesitations on the 7000 are:
- it is newer, so longevity hasn't been proven yet
The Fleck 5600 has been around for a very long time and has earned a stellar reputation in the field. Service docs and parts are easy to come by.

The 7000 is the new kid on the block so it has a short service record. I'd opt for the 5600SE or the 2510SE.

Originally Posted by ckcwong View Post
- more plastic, especially the bypass valve. I like the SS value better (since to me metal lasts longer and is stronger)
There's plastic and then there's PLASTIC.

Noryl is an uber-plastic and quite formidable. Noryl is inert, won't corrode, and can be machined. Fleck makes the 5600, 2510, and 7000 control valves out of Noryl so there's no reason not to use it for a bypass.

Originally Posted by ckcwong View Post
I'd like to place it as close to the wall as possible.
There are threaded Noryl yokes for the Noryl bypass and threaded SS bypasses to allow for a variety of angled fittings.
 
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Old 08-12-08, 05:43 PM
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Which Fleck to buy???

I have been reading all of the forums on the Fleck systems and I am still confused on wheter to get the 2510SE, 5600SE or the 7000. Has anyone had experience with any of them and can shed some light?
Thx
Roger B
 
 

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