whole house chlorination filter

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Old 11-11-07, 05:10 AM
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Question whole house chlorination filter

Hi all, question on a whole house chlorine filter. I am installing a backwashing sediment filter right after my well pressure tank, then I was thinking about putting in a whole house chlorine filter, then my water softener, then water to my house. Is that a good layout or should I put the chlorine filter after my water softener.
My other question is, I have been looking for two days at chlorine filters and wondered if the KX Matrikx +1 (20inch x 4.5 inch Big Blue) carbon block would be a good filter for my whole house. I have read that the gac can leave carbon fines in the water where as the carbon block won't. Will I see a big pressure drop in my flow or should I look at another filter. My well is kicking on at about 45 and kicks off at 65 (my settings).

By the way, I am looking at the chlorine filter since I use a liquid chlorinator to oxidize the .50 iron in my water, thanks much for any help.
 
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Old 11-13-07, 10:29 AM
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Clearly you are serious about your water and you don't mind making an investment...as long as it works, is easy to maintain and proves cost effective. Would that be accurate?

Could you describe your source water? Hardness? Since your iron is only 0.5 ppm, the softener should be able to handle that without difficulty unless the iron is ferric in nature. In that case the backwashing filter should take care of it. I am a little puzzled at the need for a chlorination device for iron.

Never put it after the softener. In fact, it should go before the backwashing filter to let the filter remove the precipitated iron...something your softener will not do. In that case you would still need a dechlorinated device/filter.

What is the media and valve used in the backwashiong filter? What is the height and diameter of the tank? How often does it backwash?

Whenever you add ANY equipment, lines, lebows, valves, height, etc. to your plumbing, you will lose pressure according to each in its own case.

Answer these questions and do a little research on KDF-55 filter media.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II
 
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Old 11-13-07, 12:11 PM
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Hi Andy, thanks for the reply,

Clearly you are serious about your water and you don't mind making an investment...as long as it works, is easy to maintain and proves cost effective. Would that be accurate?
Yes that is very accurate.

My water was bottled and sent to a lab for a full blown test for about 100bucks in august and here is the results.

Here is my august water test.
pH 8.38
Total disolved solids 594 ppm
hardness mg/L 119
alkalinity mg/L CaCO3 530

Fluoride 1.3ppm
Chloride 45.3ppm
Bromide 1.0ppm
Nitrite 0.0ppm
Nitrate 0.2ppm
Phosphate 1.0ppm
Sulfate 26.0ppm

Sodium 265.4ppm
Potassium 0.0ppm
Ammonium 0.0ppm
Magnesium 12.9ppm
Calcium 26.5ppm

Iron Ferric .42ppm
Iron Ferrous 0.0ppm
Iron Total .42ppm
Manganese 0.0ppm
Copper 0.0ppm
Nickel 0.0ppm
Zinc .10ppm
Cobalt 0.0ppm


My setup is well pump, liquid chlorinator, pressure tank, water softener then to house. When I bought the house the faucets would stink for about 15 seconds after turning them on, like rotten eggs. I took my water softener apart and the fleck 5600 was fairly loaded up with iron. I ran painstakenly cleaned the 5600 from head to toe with iron out, ran 4 backwashes with iron out and got my softener back on track. I shocked my house with 1/2 gallon of bleach (after water softener of course) and let it cook all day long. No more smell, no orange crud in toilet tanks. I then experimented with a big blue (20inx4.5) sediment (20micron pleated) filter before water softener to keep the iron particles out of my water softener. Worked pretty good, but still would get a little tint of orange in house, so I said no way, and bought another big blue (20inx4.5) and put an iron filter FI-IRON20-BB Whole House Big Blue 20" after the sediment. This has eliminated iron in my house, but I have to go out about every 3 weeks to clean sediment filter because I lose about 15psi with it getting loaded up with rust particles. I'm tired of babysitting that thing.
I just bought and had delivered an ohio pure water fleck 7000 10x54 multimedia (garnet,filtersand,gravel, anthracite) to replace my big blue sediment filter. I am in the process of installing it today. I will probably set it up to backwash once a week maybe ten days. I have turned up my liquid chlorinator to bring my chlorine level up to .5 free chlorine/.5total chlorine, and I was thinking of adding a chlorine filter (20x4.5big blue), in one of my big blue containers. My chlorine is not real high, so I am thinking I should get decent mileage out of it.

Never put it after the softener. In fact, it should go before the backwashing filter to let the filter remove the precipitated iron...something your softener will not do. In that case you would still need a dechlorinated device/filter.

You lost me here. If you are talking about the chlorine filter, I can understand not installing the filter after the water softener (wear and tear on the resin) but I don't think that could go before the backwashing sediment filter, other wise it would be loaded up with iron/rust particles acting like my old big blue sediment filter did and then I would be changing out chlorine filters every 3 weeks and might as well return my backwashing sediment filter.

I'm guessing the best course of actiong is a chlorine filter before the water softener but after the sediment filter, or am I misunderstanding you. I will deffinitely check out the kdf and specs. Thanks for the helpfull info as always.
 
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Old 11-13-07, 03:04 PM
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My apologies, I was thinking a chlorine injection system after the softener...you can see why that wouldn't be right. I see you were talking about a chlorine removal filter system.

So the chlorination system is also (or primarily) to fight the odor issues in addition to iron conversion?

Since you are putting the chlorine injection system BEFORE the pressure tank, this can be a mixed blessing (no play on words). The pressure tank acts a retention for the chlorine to oxidate the iron and convert it from ferrous to ferric iron.

Well, this solid iron will either pass through the softener, clog the valve or foul the resins and probably a little of each. You might be acting in contrary to your needs.

The retention time (normally 20 minutes) can not be achieved by normally water usage unless your pressure tank is about 120 gallons---doubtful. So some of the iron will precipitate and some will not.

Furthermore, if your pressure tank has a bladder in it, the chlorine will eventually deteriorate it and cause the tank to become water logged leading to pump failure. Chlorine and rubber are not good bed-fellows.

Moreover, the residual chlorine will cause resin failure as the resins will slowly turn to mush. This will result in softener failure and no increase in salt dosage or regen frequency will correct the problem.

Without longer retention, your chlorine concentration will need to be increased to achieve the same results. The backwashing filter is an excellent approach to remove precipitated iron as well as free (excess) chlorine removal. It will also add in odors that might overcome chlorination.

Do you have ample space in your treatment are? If so I would get a mixing tank (13x54) that is especially designed to mix chemicals. An in-line mixer can also be placed for additional mixing and retention enhancement.

These tanks can be drained periodically from the bottom. You may be amazed at all that these can accumulate

Switch the injector point after the PT and before the filter (and retention tank).

Personally, I wouldn't use the FI-IRON20-BB for iron removal. At $125 or so, it will not be that effective, may clog prematurely and just may not do the trick. You may be replacing them more often than you wish risking poor results. I have never had, or seen, any luck with desposible iron filters.

Thanks for the info, and sorry for the confusion.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II
 
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Old 11-14-07, 06:34 AM
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Hey not a problem at all Andy, I will look into the mixing tank as well, and with the arrival of the backwashing sediment tank yesterday the FI-IRON20-BB is now curbside.
Thanks again for following up,
 
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Old 11-16-07, 08:12 AM
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Let us know how you do.

Andy
 
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