Loss of resin need to reset/rebuild


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Old 01-31-08, 11:19 AM
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Question Loss of resin need to reset/rebuild

For the 2nd time our lower distributor has been crushed and has released resin throughout the house. Tell you it isn't as alarming the second time around. This was caused when the city turned off the water to the street to replace water meters on our homes and when they turned it back on the pressure must have crushed the aged and weakened lower distributor basket. Now I am faced with repurchasing and resetting the resin bed. The original spec stated that quartz underbedding was used below the resin. Is there another name for this? I can only find what appears to be fish tank gravel. It is a 48k grain system 10" dia 54" tall. We have 2 adults and 4 teens using the water. It is now 14 years old. I know that nothing is wrong with the tanks (brine and mineral) however, at this point I am considering replacing the seals and spacers as well as injectors etc on the head. The last thing I want is for a valve to stick and pour the resin out. The distributor becomes very brittle here in Phoenix after years of sitting in chlorinated water. I can probably add that to my 5 year maint. list instead of waiting next time. Are there any special tools required for rebuilding the head? Its a proprietary modified fleck 6600 24v LCD with 7 cycles. (though I think we only had 4 set). Magnum 7000 system Ultima Water Systems (Mfr. B&R Industries in Mesa AZ). B&R offers absolutely no assistance and I mean ZERO when it comes to asking questions. How can I tell if it is up brining or down brining? There are 2 different manuals at ohiopurewater.com

Planning using CG8 resin from resintech. 1.5cf. 20 lbs of underbedding. are these qtys correct for this tank size? I need to replace the distributor and want to rebuild the valve head. Forsee any problems? Need to get this thing back up and running and would rather spend 300 than 650 on a new system. Cannot stand this water as it is right now without it!
Thanks for any input!
 

Last edited by Accx4; 01-31-08 at 12:22 PM. Reason: more pertinent info
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Old 01-31-08, 01:38 PM
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Another name for that base media might be "garnet". It is very havy and meant to distribute water more evenly through the resin media.

What is the diameter/height of your tank? 10" x 54"?


You might want to invest in a in-line pressure regulator. This controls maximum pressure for those times when excessive pressure comes to the house. They are not cheap but worth it if this should ever happen again.

Andy Chrsitensen, CWS-II
 
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Old 01-31-08, 02:09 PM
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Yes, the actual tank inside the jacket is 10" dia by 54" tall. Some of the things I need to know before ordering parts is quantities of resin and underbedding. I believe 1.5 cf resin and 20 lbs of underbedding. I have determined that it is a fleck 6600 but cannot ascertain if it is up flow brining or down flow brining. How can I tell? The manual I have gives examples of both however, it is an old 6600 meaning older than the discontinued manual that Fleck has on their website. This 6600 does not have a program button. That is a display button that cycles through time, volume, and rate. There is however a hidden button on the face panel under the touchpad for accessing programming modes. I have a black cycle cam (inside the front cover) and the piston attached to it (what I can see of it anyway) is a galvanized metal top where it attaches to the cycle cam a green rod and a gray end plug (sitting atop the valve). I want to replace the seals and spacers but everything else looks really good here. No wear. I will replace the injector screen and nozzle as well as brine screen. I have exploded views of everything. So I do think this is do-able for less than 300. I just have to get this thing going again so I can dump the water heater! Its killing everything and I miss clean dishes and showers etc. THanks for your help... any reccommendations are appreciated.
 
 

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