Kinetico Mo 60 Problem - No idea what to check


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Old 04-20-08, 12:49 PM
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Kinetico Mo 60 Problem - No idea what to check

Hello..

I have a Kinetico model 60 softener that was here at the house when we bought it. It was installed in the house in May 2001. My wife and I have noticed that the water for the last couple of months doesn't seem to be soft at all. I used to get that really slippery feeling on my skin when taking a shower and we don't get that any more. I don't see any leaks in the system and we do hear the softener going through it's cycles every now and again like normal. There is a disc on the top of the unit that has two number "2" numbers on it. I can freely cycle the disc by using a philips screwdriver like normal. Everything seems normal and it is even using salt. The salt level is decreasing as usual as well.

Is there anything that I can check to be sure it is working right? I also think I have noticed a build up of deposits on the shower door as well. I have also verified that the bypass is not on.

Anyone have any ideas on what I can check on this thing? I'm a do it yourself guy for the most part so I'd like to take the time and learn what I have to do for myself.

Thanks for any information anyone might have for me.

-Allistah
 
  #2  
Old 04-20-08, 01:04 PM
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All the usual indicators, manual cycling through regen steps, are you sure the bypass is off, and salt level going down indicate normal operation yet something is not right. A buildup of deposits on the shower door indicates that the water is hard.

Tech info on Kinetico softeners is not made available to end users so helping yourself is hit and miss and that softener is too valuable to break.

You've got a top quality softener there and spending a little to get it up and running properly is a smart investment.

Consider calling the local Kinetico dealer and inquire about the warranty. Some Kinetico softeners are backed by a 10 year warranty.

Regardless of the warranty, a service call is prudent. A knowledgeable Kinetico tech can test your current water conditions and make whatever adjustments or repairs might be necessary to get your softener working properly. Get the tech to instruct you in whatever routine maintenance you should be doing and you should enjoy many, many years of trouble free service from that softener.
 

Last edited by justalurker; 04-20-08 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 04-20-08, 09:07 PM
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Well, the valves that are installed on this thing are the kind where if the handle runs with the pipe it's open, if it's 90 degress to the pipe it's closed. Pretty easy to tell when it's being bypassed.

..and if it was being bypassed, it wouldn't cycle on its own because thats all driven by the water going through it.
 
  #4  
Old 04-20-08, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Allistah View Post
Well, the valves that are installed on this thing are the kind where if the handle runs with the pipe it's open, if it's 90 degress to the pipe it's closed. Pretty easy to tell when it's being bypassed.

..and if it was being bypassed, it wouldn't cycle on its own because thats all driven by the water going through it.
I always ask just to be sure... it is an easy mistake for an end user to make in some installations and very hard to see over the internet.
 
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Old 04-22-08, 08:29 AM
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Kinetico in my years of doing water treatment is better than the big box store units that usually last 4 - 5 years, then good luck finding anyone to work on them much less trying to find / get parts. Not bashing Kinetico but there are higher quality units out there. One thing reading these replies and problem First if it is using salt, the bypass valves have to be in the correct position or no water will pass thru unit to draw in the brine ( salt water) and to refill the brine tank for the next cleaning / regen. Being that it is approx 2001 yr, I am wondering if you are on municipal water, if so the clorine will break down the resin material. When that happens the resin will not grab the minerals in the water, thus you will not have "soft" water in your home. The unit will be working as far as going thru cycles, using salt etc. But like I said when the resin breaks down it will not remove the minerals ( hardness) from the water, this will give you the minerals around faucets, on shower doors, glasses and silverware in dish washer will have the "powder" coating or spotting. If the resin has gone bad it will need to be replace.
 

Last edited by DIYaddict; 04-22-08 at 01:39 PM. Reason: email address removed/not allowed
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Old 04-22-08, 12:22 PM
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So a tech came out and tested the water inside/out. I'm 11 grains hard outside, and it's soft inside. It's working properly. I guess my city is adding a lot of stuff to the water so it could make it feel different. The stains aren't very bad at all so it might just be soap, etc.

He took the head apart and showed me all the stuff to look for. Some of the black rubber parts are starting to break down on the pistons, etc. I also seen that some of the blue gears in there are starting to turn white on the teeth which he said indicated that they're getting brittle and could start breaking at some point.

At any rate, I can fix/replace all that stuff myself in the future. It's not very difficult.

Some things that I would need that I seen he had:

1) Non-curing grease
2) Water test kit
3) Internal filter (blue)
4) 4 larger pistons
5) 2 smaller pistons

The black rubber all around seems to be breaking down so it might be a good idea to change those out on my terms, not when I need it most. :-)

All the other stuff depends on what breaks...whenever that happens. He also showed me what to look for if it appears to not be working like suction in one of the lines from the salt tank.

He also told me to let it run out of salt and pull the float out and clean the bottom of the salt tank once a year when it runs out. No problem for me.

So, where do I get the grease, test kit, and the pistons?

Thanks,

-Allistah
 
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Old 04-22-08, 01:35 PM
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The grease is food grade silicone grease. I find it at Lowe's...



Has to be food grade or non-toxic or NSF certified.
 
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Old 07-18-08, 07:37 AM
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I have a Kinetico Model 60 as well, sorry I jumped in on this thread, but I am very frustrated with my softener. It ran out of salt and the water became very hard. I added salt and used a screwdriver to regenerate. I waited a day and the water didn't seem to change at all, upon checking the brine tank it was about 1/2 full of water (the water was about 6 inches above the salt level) what should I check to try to see if the system is working? How long does it take for the water to get back to normal after regenerating? Should I try to regenerate it again? Thank you so much for your help!!!
 
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Old 07-18-08, 12:23 PM
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Unfortunately, when you run out of salt, you may have to regenerate BOTH sides with a couple of hours between. You may have exhausted both tanks so just ergenerating one won't give immediate results.

Also, you may filled your water heater with hard water and that will take some time to get back to 100% soft.

The water should be about 6 inches off the bottom. Did it fill till the drain off line?

Andy Christensen, CWS-II
 
  #10  
Old 07-19-08, 01:35 PM
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thanks for your answer, the water filled up to the overflow. I think the float was too high and that is why that happened, i adjusted the float to the second mark from the bottom and put in back in the cylinder. It doesn't seem like the water is draining out of the salt tank, there is water draining out of the pipe that runs from the brine tank (I think that is what it is called it i the tall black one with the dial on the top that I used to manually regenerate). I have regenerated it twice now, how long should I have to wait to see if it is woking. Shouldn't the cold water be corrected rather quickly? Thanks!!!
 
 

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