New Clack/SST60 softner: Weird smell/taste to water? Fake resin?


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Old 04-28-08, 08:37 AM
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New Clack/SST60 softner: Weird smell/taste to water? Fake resin?

Hi folks. I have been lurking here the last few months and finally went ahead and bought a Clack WS1 softner with 42k grain capacity (1.5 cu ft) and with the SST60 resin. I use KCL for salt.

I simply can not get rid of a cheap plastic taste/smell to the water....

It has been more than a week, we have probably used around 1000 gallons of water (mostly because I was attempting to 'flush' the system of the bad taste/smell). I even initiated a manual regen to see it this helped.

But the cheap plastic smell/taste simply wont go away. It is possibly a sign of fake resin or is it normal?

I would be grateful for any advice how to get rid of the problem. I am about to put the system to bypass and be done with it.

Thanks!
 
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Old 04-28-08, 08:50 AM
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How is the softener plumbed in... copper or plastic?

What are your water conditions? Well or water system?

How is the softener programmed? What is the salt dose?

Curious, why SST60 resin? your choice or recommended by the seller?

Rather than endure the plastic taste/smell by using more water try two or three manual regenerations in a row. That should thoroughly flush the resin.
 
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Old 04-28-08, 09:08 AM
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Thank you for responding!

What are your water conditions? Well or water system?

It is city water. Approx 21 grain hardness.

How is the softener programmed? What is the salt dose?
I dont know the programming including the salt dose as I am still learning how to find this out/program the softner. The programming was done by the dealer who told me the clack was set up for my system before shipping.

Curious, why SST60 resin? your choice or recommended by the seller?

I must admit, I made that call. Thought it would help in reducing the salt and water consumption.

Rather than endure the plastic taste/smell by using more water try two or three manual regenerations in a row.

Thanks! I will try that... have to buy more salt today....
 
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Old 04-28-08, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by MoodyDragon View Post

Curious, why SST60 resin? your choice or recommended by the seller?

I must admit, I made that call. Thought it would help in reducing the salt and water consumption.
So, you speced the softener without consulting the seller for their recommendation?

Let us know what happens after you do the regenerations.
 
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Old 04-28-08, 09:24 AM
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So, you speced the softener without consulting the seller for their recommendation?
No, I am sorry if I was not clearer. The capacity of the softner, the choice of valve, was calculated by the dealer. I just asked for substitution of the resin.

Let us know what happens after you do the regenerations.

I will do that today. Thanks!

I have 1 inch copper pipe plumbing for the valve, by the way.
 
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Old 04-28-08, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MoodyDragon View Post
So, you speced the softener without consulting the seller for their recommendation?
No, I am sorry if I was not clearer. The capacity of the softner, the choice of valve, was calculated by the dealer. I just asked for substitution of the resin.
That was my question... whether the dealer recommended SST60 for a specific reason or YOU wanted it. There is no reason to use SST60 unless there is a specific need. Standard high quality cross linked resin like Purolite C100 would have been quite capable and less expensive.

Originally Posted by MoodyDragon View Post
[I]I have 1 inch copper pipe plumbing for the valve, by the way.
OK, copper won't impart a plastic taste to the water so that isn't the problem .

I do suggest that you get your dealer on the phone while standing in front of the softener and make sure the programming in the WS1 is correctly setup as the dealer expects it was just to be sure.
 
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Old 04-28-08, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by MoodyDragon View Post
Curious, why SST60 resin? your choice or recommended by the seller?
I must admit, I made that call. Thought it would help in reducing the salt and water consumption.
I have 26-30g hard water with no iron. I had a Clack WS1 1.5cu ft softener (same size as yours) with standard cross linked resin. With two people in the house and the softener tweaked for efficiency I used one 40lb bag of KCL per month.
 

Last edited by justalurker; 04-28-08 at 10:42 AM.
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Old 04-28-08, 02:11 PM
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If taste it sthe issue, the I would recommend an RO for all your consumption needs.

What is your chlorine count?

Andy Christensen, CWS-II
 
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Old 04-28-08, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by AndyC View Post
If taste it sthe issue, the I would recommend an RO for all your consumption needs.

What is your chlorine count?

Andy Christensen, CWS-II
Hi Andy. Luckily for us, the local building codes specifically require the kitchen cold water tap and refrigerator water pipe to be plumbed separately from the rest of the house/softener loop. I guess this is for health reasons as most will use NaCl for softening and NOT use a RO. Therefore the kitchen tap will always have only hard water. Most even in my area do not know that.

I do have a RO for the kitchen but luckily the taste is an issues only in the shower and while brushing our teeth. And yes, it is bad in the shower... None of us like having a bath in water smelling of cheap plastic....

I don't know my chlorine count but how does that effect our softened water taste? Others have soft water without any bad taste in our area. Should I get it measured? How?

Thanks!
 
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Old 04-29-08, 06:25 AM
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Where do you live that local codes actually require that cold water to the kitchen sink and ice maker have to be untreated water? That is very unusual and strange in my opinion.

That means that they are essentially preventing a homeowner from attaching an RO to the sink and fridge. Yes, you say you have an RO but feeding it with hard water will cause the membrane to fail prematurally due to calcification of the membrane .

Secondly, I would guess that if it cannot be for 'health reasons' because the health department makes that determination and if there is an issue, then a softener neither adds nor detracts from anything that the health department can recommend or prohibit. Softened water will have no affect towards e. coli, coliform, nitrate/nitrite, or any other health issues.

Hard water to the fridge will eventually cause ice makers to have service problems and will immediately make a much lower quality of ice. Anything above 10.5 gpg is considered extremely hard, you're at 21.

I have never heard of 'fake' resins, so I doubt that can be an issue. There are other types of media that pretend to soften water through miraculous marketing techniques, but if you got SST-60 resins, then you got a high quality selection.

If you feel, that potassium is the problem, then switch to a high quality salt.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II
 
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Old 04-29-08, 11:59 AM
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Where do you live that local codes actually require that cold water to the kitchen sink and ice maker have to be untreated water? That is very unusual and strange in my opinion.

I live in Las Vegas. My builder is William Lyon who are known to be pretty upscale builders. I checked the plumbing in my friend's home (Toll Brothers) and they have the same kind of plumbing. In additon I verified this with the local plumbers and they agree this is the way houses are being built.

All newer houses in Las Vegas have a softener loop in the garage. In the past, the loop was only for hot water. The code has since changed and the loop feeds both the hot and cold water except the kitchen sink. I have not personally checked the code, just going by the plumbers word, but that is how the houses are being built here anyway.

That means that they are essentially preventing a homeowner from attaching an RO to the sink and fridge. Yes, you say you have an RO but feeding it with hard water will cause the membrane to fail prematurally due to calcification of the membrane .

Amen to that! However, I find myself supporting the way house is plumbed. I would much rather pay for a new membrane every year for the greater good. Most dont know the health risks of high sodium intake, our diet is way too rich in it anyway.

Secondly, I would guess that if it cannot be for 'health reasons' because the health department makes that determination and if there is an issue, then a softener neither adds nor detracts from anything that the health department can recommend or prohibit.

I can not speak for the city of course. However as a health professional, I can tell you that the health effect of sodium is an issue.

Hard water to the fridge will eventually cause ice makers to have service problems and will immediately make a much lower quality of ice. Anything above 10.5 gpg is considered extremely hard, you're at 21.

I agree. My house came with a RO unit built in and plumbed to supply soft water to the refrigerator too (which is on the other side of the kitchen, so the pipe runs under the kitchen floor) so I know it was not an issue for us at least. I was renting before this and did not have a softner/RO and so never used the tap water/ice maker. Nor do most folks who dont have a RO that I know. Most buy their water from the malls/water outlets.

I have never heard of 'fake' resins, so I doubt that can be an issue. There are other types of media that pretend to soften water through miraculous marketing techniques, but if you got SST-60 resins, then you got a high quality selection.

If you feel, that potassium is the problem, then switch to a high quality salt.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II[/


I did 4 manual regnerations back to back yesterday before going to sleep. Since the water heater is still full of previously treated (smelly) water, I dont know if the flushing helped. Will try the cold water once I go home and report back. Thanks!
 
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Old 04-29-08, 02:59 PM
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I just tried the water after a total of 5 regenerations. Still smells. Bad.

Next: Change the salt to NaCl. ::sigh::::
 
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Old 04-29-08, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by MoodyDragon View Post
I just tried the water after a total of 5 regenerations. Still smells. Bad.

Next: Change the salt to NaCl. ::sigh::::
Before you change from KCl to NaCl I suggest that you get your dealer on the phone while standing in front of the softener and make sure the programming in the WS1 is correctly setup as the dealer expects it was just to be sure. Knowing that the softener is programmed correctly eliminates one variable.

Some info regarding increased Na levels in softened water http://oto.wustl.edu/men/water.htm
 
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Old 04-29-08, 08:20 PM
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I have noticed that some types of pipe compound (dope) can give a smell to the water for a while. Are there a few threaded fittings involved with the setup?
 
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Old 04-29-08, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by cleanwaterman View Post
I have noticed that some types of pipe compound (dope) can give a smell to the water for a while. Are there a few threaded fittings involved with the setup?
Hi. Not that I now of. Clack has O Rings and the rest of the plumbing is welded copper.
 
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Old 04-29-08, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by justalurker View Post
Before you change from KCl to NaCl I suggest that you get your dealer on the phone while standing in front of the softener and make sure the programming in the WS1 is correctly setup as the dealer expects it was just to be sure.
Hi Justalurker. I checked the settings. Here they are:

This is a 48k resin tank, 1.5 cu ft of SST60 resin, presently on KCl. Water hardness set to 21, 14 days, regeneration at 3 am

The settings are:
Softening
Regen: Post fill
P 1
Capacity 48x1000
Regen 9.5 lbs
Auto gal
Normal

Hmmm. Does this look right? What is P1? Thanks again for helping!
 

Last edited by MoodyDragon; 04-29-08 at 09:35 PM. Reason: clarity
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Old 04-30-08, 09:00 PM
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P1

P1 is the lowest possible setting as far as back wash and brining go. change it to a p23. that is what my company sets our machines at on city water. i do not have the charts in from of me. but that p number tells the machine how long each cycle should be and p1 is the lowest possible setting for all cycles.

Sean
 
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Old 05-04-08, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by smasters82 View Post
P1 is the lowest possible setting as far as back wash and brining go. change it to a p23. that is what my company sets our machines at on city water. i do not have the charts in from of me. but that p number tells the machine how long each cycle should be and p1 is the lowest possible setting for all cycles.

Sean
Thanks! I appreciate your input. Cant find the relevant page in the big manual where it details the various programmed cycles...
 
 

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