How do I troubleshoot softener valve?

I have a "Computrol" water softener that seems to be malfunctioning. My water is frequently hard, smells of iron and stains the tub & toilets. I recently realized that during regeneration no water is available in the house.
I'm pretty sure when I moved in here there was water during regen. The valve has a small label on it identifying it as a model 7070828-130 made by Water Refining Co. of St. Paul, MN. There are no motors or gears--the electronics are programmable and the water usage is sensed by a magnetic flowmeter. It only has 2 solenoids on top so how hard can it be to figure out how it functions??

I'd like to take a shot at servicing this myself if I can get some information on how these 2 solenoids control all the things that happen at regeneration.

 

First I would make sure the by-pass valve is not open.

Is there water in the brine tank? Does the salt level look the same or does it look like it's using salt?

There should be an indicator on the heads display that should be showing if the flow meter is working.

I would initiate a regeneration and verify it's sucking brine, backwashing, etc.

 

What you have is a Miracle Water unit. They haven't been made since the 70's. There are 4 bolts that hold the valve together. Place the unit on bypass and relieve the pressure. You can take it apart and clean it up, but I don't know if you can get any repair parts for it. Eco Water out of St Paull, Minn is the manufacture. ecowater.com is there web site.

 

Wow, Eco water. If it's the same company, they were(still are)ECO Water Industrial. Went to a class for them in '94. They were in Middletown OH. Went to learn an auto DI system we were installing for a cosmetic manufacturer.
This is so cool....lolBeer 4U2

 

It uses salt and regenerates every few days like normal. After regen. the water seems fine--but not long til its hard again.

Where can I find info on the sequence and timing of the regen. actions?

Still interested in knowing what exactly these 2 solenoids do. Doesn't seem like 2 valves would be enough to control the entire process.

 

The soleniods control the direction of flow. So when the unit is in a backwash, one of the soleniods open and allow water to flow down the distributor tube. The other will cause the brine draw and refill. IIRC. The eco web site has a phone #. You may get all your answers there. The unit is just too old. Last time I worked on one was in 94. Always thought they made a good valve. Too bad they don't still make them.

 

Hi that is in my opinion one of the best units ever sold,my best advice is to bypass unit take both solinoids of three srews on each one (remember when replacing them back on not to over tighten they will strip out in body clean spring and popper (pointed thing)clean spring and rubber caps stick needle through little hole on rubber diaphram then assemble back take off bypass slowly run throgh cycles -backwash-brine rinse -fast rinse -brine refill- service set timeer to correct time and back wash about 2 am post me back good luck

 

Thank you so much for the actual service info. I'll try this--maybe I can make this old thing last a little longer.

Since the timer & valve seem to basically work properly I'm wondering if my problem is 'worn out' media. Would it be worthwhile to replace the media or swap out the tank?
I really hate the landfill mentality and would rather not replace a unit that can be repaired.

 

The resin can be checked to see if it's good. Get a small sample and squeeze it between your thumb and finger. If it smashes up, it's no good.

 

Is there more than one type of resin? Because I thought I read that they were coated glass beads. Or maybe that's what I assumed from their appearance...??

 

There are several types of resin. It is polystyerne (plastic beads). They give it a negitive charge so it attracts positive ions (calcium, iron....etc.