issues with filtration

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Old 04-20-09, 09:21 PM
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issues with filtration

i've had a master water system installed for six years and it's never worked well. i blame the installation, lack of info from installer, and subsequent lack of service... i do not blame the manufacturer.

the system is well water into a filter that is labeled model# 255/440i (NS-20T printed on tank). there is some sort of "sacrificial media" in there, i saw the guy put it in years ago, but i don't know what it is. i suspect calcite, but it backwashes with a brine solution. i've read that calcite filters don't need brine to backwash, so i am confused as to what the media is. is there a way to find out?

the second filter is 268/440i. Don't know what this one is, maybe a sediment filter. how do i find out? (MBA-MM-10-1 is printed on tank). or maybe its the plastic balls? again, how do i find out. of course, if it were the balls it would need to be attached to the brine reservoir, no?

i have had it serviced a couple of times, but each guy bashes the last and complains about the installation. then a nationwide chanin quoted me 8000 to replace it. honestly, i've lost the trust and desire to have someone else service the system. i often wonder if they purposely do a poor job to convince me the the system needs to be replaced.

i would like to service this thing myself, clean out the filter screen, hose, and replenish the media as required but have found not so much info on trouble shooting and maintenance. any help would be immensely appreciated.

thanks
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Old 04-21-09, 07:43 AM
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Why not start from the beginning? What are you trying to accomplish in regards to water treatment?

Did you ever have a certified lab do any tests?

If filter techs/salesmen did any on-site water testing, what did they tell you. (Take that info with a grain of salt, however)

What did the "nationwide chain" guy want to sell you and what info did he leave with you concerning what your water needed?
 
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Old 04-21-09, 07:08 PM
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the reason i'm not starting from the beginning is because i have what appears to be a perfectly fine water filtration system that's not working correctly due to neglect. I've had a few water tests. I assume the original test taken for this system was analyzed by the manufacturer (not the installer) and the correct system was selected. However, my goals are primarily to protect my home piping which has already been severely eroded, and secondly to achieve safe drinking water. The staining that occured prior to the installation no longer occurs, so some things appear to be doing something.

I have not had a certified lab perform the test, but see the value in doing so and will follow your advice.

the chain guy offered the following:
untreated/treated
TDS 119/186
Sulfur - none/none
PH 4.5/5.5
Iron 1.8/.4
Hardness 2gpg/0gpg
Alkalinity 40mgl
Manganese TS/0

Don't know what TDS means. Im not sure if "TS" is correct for manganese, hard to read the hand writing.

thanks for responding.
 
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Old 04-21-09, 07:40 PM
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A couple of things seem strange. First of all, if there is a brine solution, it would need to be replenishes. I suppose you have not done that all, right.

Secondly, if your pH is down as low as 4.5, then Calcite will NOT work, or at least bring the pH up to near neutral. At that low of pH, you would need a chemical such as sodium hydroxide. Could this be what the bring is? I've just never heard of those two neutralizers used togther.

TDS is Total Dissolved Solids. Essentially, anything in your water that is not water of an inorganic substance, namely minerals, metal, salts. Sugars, oils bacteria and virus would not be included.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II
 
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Old 04-22-09, 07:06 AM
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Hi andy,
i do replace the salt in the Brine.

i discovered after talking with Masters the solution is Magnesium Calcite... i dont know if that makes a difference or not.
 
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Old 04-22-09, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by AndyC View Post
A couple of things seem strange. First of all, if there is a brine solution, it would need to be replenishes. I suppose you have not done that all, right.

Secondly, if your pH is down as low as 4.5, then Calcite will NOT work, or at least bring the pH up to near neutral. At that low of pH, you would need a chemical such as sodium hydroxide. Could this be what the bring is? I've just never heard of those two neutralizers used togther.

TDS is Total Dissolved Solids. Essentially, anything in your water that is not water of an inorganic substance, namely minerals, metal, salts. Sugars, oils bacteria and virus would not be included.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II
Agree..... a PH of 4.5 is extremely low. Ours is 5.8 (lowest of anybody I know) and we use 50% caustic soda to neutralize it and it is effective and not too expensive.

Andy, is sodium hydroxide more effective/cheaper/safer than caustic? Later!
 
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Old 04-22-09, 07:55 PM
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Soda ash is also called sodum hydroxide and lye. It comes in solid form or in a 50% solution. I prefered the liquid. Soda ash in the soid form can clump in the bottom of the tank.

A pH test kit is a must to monitor service water as not to cause pH to get too high.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II
 
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