I need to replace my old, broken down water softener. Based on all of the fantastic information here and other forums, my approach has changed dramatically and I'm seriously considering a DIY option. However, after all my reading and all my conversations with local and conglomerate reps some questions remain. It can sometimes be hard to make sense of the FUD. Thanks in advance for helping me out. The details: - City water hardness around 20 g/g, apparently fluctuates from 17-22 according to local reps. City average document says 21.9. - Details on all other water measurements found here under Milton Well Based column [url]http://www.halton.ca/PPW/Water/PDFs/WaterQuality_Drinking_Distribution2008.pdf[/url] - Chlorine content has been going up lately based on taste, I'd like to address that for cooking and drinking. - Family of four, two adults and two girls 4 and 6 years old (ie water usage likely below average now but will increase steadily over the next 15 years). Where my head is right now: - Likely going to get a Clack WS-1 based system. I have a local dealer (somewhat pricey) and one internet based option (aquatell) that I've found so far here in Canada. - Both Clack dealers have taken the approach that tanks and media are all pretty much the same, the valve is the big variable. But that is in conflict with alot of what I've read and been told, which is where the questions come in: - It would appear that getting a higher-efficiency resin like Purolite SST60 does actually make a difference. My primary interest here would be lowering total operating cost by lowering salt and water consumption. Is it generally worth the extra $? - It would appear that every dealer I've talked to has proposed a machine of different capacity. Based on my own research I was thinking something in the 40k range, but have been proposed machines anywhere from 25-35k. My guess is that they're trying to appear competitive pricewise, but am I oversizing my unit? Does using SST60 resin change the requirement there (ie more efficient resin means smaller resin bed is called for)/ - At least one dealer suggested that their unit uses even less salt and water by doing upflow regeneration and only recharging the resin that needs recharging. Does this really provide a noticeable increase in efficiency (ie long term cost)? I've read that this requires a packed bed, but can't get much information on what that is or how I would create a packed bed. In both the upflow regeneration and packed bed case, is this something I could (or even should) accomplish with a DIY Clack based system and if so how? - I'd like to add some carbon to the bed in order to remove the chlorine taste. Most dealers said that the carbon would eventually lose effectiveness and require replacement. One dealer said that they use Centaur carbon which works differently (chemical conversion vs absorption) and lasts much longer (he actually said lifetime warranty). Is this true? - How much carbon should I add to the resin tank for my scenario? Alot of questions I know, hopefully I've provided enough information to help with providing the answers. Thanks Pete

My water softener is leaving "salt residue around the tank", and now it has caused the drywall to "bubble" and literally eat the drywall. At first, it just started around the bottom of the tank, and was easily cleaned up by scraping the salt from the floor, like a small thin layer of ice. My wall will now need to have new drywall! Any suggestion as to what to do would be appreciated! What is making this happen?