Help converting Autotrol Performa Control valve
Model : 268 FA with 440i clock timer installed on a 10”x47” 1 cu ft unit

It is currently setup for a greensand filtration with potassium permanganate to regenerate.
It has the purple cam and No.13 – 1000214 Drain Control Assembly

It has a 12 GPM service flow rate.

I want to replace the greensand with Filox-R so I’d like to convert the 268FA unit into a 263/440i unit.

From what I’ve found I need to replace the following parts
Change to 1035624 Grey Filter Camshaft
Change to 1030334 Plugged Brine Refill Control
Change to 1032978 Plugged Injector Assembly
Change to 1000226 Cap Assembly
Remove 1033441 Refill Cap.

I think this is what I need to do to convert the unit to the 263/440i 3 cycle backwash filter.

I also need to know how to figure out how much backwash flow I will have with the No.13 Drain Control Assembly. The Filox-R needs a backwash flow rate of about 8GPM @ 50F. I see from the parts list that the No.13 drain control assembly has a flow rate of 4.1 gpm, but this is for a 13” tank size. What would the flow rate be for a 10” tank like I have?

Can someone confirm this for me?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

Filox is a very heavy media which requires high flow rates to backwash it properly. It weighs 114 lbs per cu ft. The backwash rate is 12-15 gpm per sq ft of media. I have had Pyrolox (just as heavy) foul very quickly because of lack of flow rate. Birm on the other hand is only 44 lbs per cu ft.
What is in your water you want to remove?

 

I have high concentrations of iron 13.6 ppm and managanese 0.896

I'm planning on installing a pre-feed chlorination pump and retention tank ahead of the filox filter.

In the documentation from the Filox manufacturer they have recommended configurations in the back and for a 10" tank with cold water 60F they have a flow rate of 8.25 GPM.

 

Greensand is a GREAT media to use when removing iron with a chlorinator and contact tank ahead of it. but with 13.5 PPM iron I don't think it will work at any significant rate of flow. As a matter of fact, I doubt any 10" filter will handle that kind of iron but if you wanna try it go ahead and post back with the results. I'd be interested to see if the new filter material works.

As for the changes you're making, there will be no flow difference based on tank size. Autotrol sizes their backflow restrictors based on water softener. A #13 is designed to be used on a 13" diameter water softener. When you use the Autotrol valve for a filter you then need to match the correct backflow rate to that needed by the filtering material you plan to use. You seem to have a grasp on this from your post but generally when backwashing heavy filter material the rate is figured per sq/ft of surface area and not cu/ft of total material. Please double check that you didn't mix terminology as it will make a substantial difference.

I have never seen an Autotrol traditional drain restrictor capable of 8 GPM and this is about the only valve I ever use. A #14 is only rated @ 5.3 GPM. When I install units needing higher backwash rates I install a Dole Flow Control right on the backwash line itself. You may wnat to locate one before you proceed.

As for the other conversions, you are correct. A gray filter cam will convert the 440i to a shorter 3-cycle regeneration. You need to cap the brine line connection (its a 3/8" male pipe thread). The refill cap should be replaced with a blank cap. I usually leave the injectors and screens in but that is up to you.

 

The poster has correctly reported the recommended backwash for a 10" diameter tank. Matt-son Inc., who owns the trademark Filox-R (tm), also says the service flow rate of a 10 x 44 tank with 1.2 cubic feet of media is 7 gpm. They say Filox-R (tm) will remove up to 15 ppm of iron without chemical addition (assuming correct water conditions) and even higher rates of removal with the use of additional treatment such as chlorine.

 

i googled and found the .pdf and I'm pretty impressed. I will be trying to get my hands on a few bags of this stuff so I can try it out. It's hard to believe it can handle that kind of water w/o any required oxidizer but I will certainly be willing to try it next time I have some nasty water like that.

 

Note that a key requirement for use of Filox without an oxidizer is that the ORP value is satisfactory. My understanding is that typical deep well water doesn't meet the requirement without addition of an oxidizer.

 

even so the material is impressive. To treat 15 PPM iron I generally use multiple greensand filters in parallel with flow control on the outgoing water to make sure each unit will not pass more than I design it to.

If that stuff can handle those kind of iron and sulfur levels the addition of an oxidizer is the least of my worries. I checked the website and it seems awful cheap and low class... I wonder if they offer any tech support or warranty if the stuff doesn't perform as they describe.