I do not know much about such systems. They have a holding tank the salt gets dumped in - with a little plastic water line that runs over to some other tank that looks like it can hold pressure. Newer such pressure tanks may be fiberglass rather than steel. And on this heavier duty tank is the digital timer control panel and various valves and such. Well, after I replaced a broken fitting in the salt holding tank, I wondered how a person can tell if salt water is even being drawn through that tube. ??? Even if you hear the machine run, how can you tell what is going through that milky white PEX tube, if anything? What if during such a repair you caused an air gap and some air bubble forms and the machine runs but does not pull any saltwater? As if in you caused it to lose it's prime? Or, can't that happen by the very nature of how they work? And how is it that both water can get into that salt holding tank, yet pull treated water out of it? I found the salt level way down near the bottom and yet water was up to the overflow hole. I threw in another bag of salt and saltwater spilled over(displaced) the overflow onto the floor. Figuring salt water was not good for the legs of the water heater and other mechanicals nearby, I flushed the spill with water heater hose drain water. How does the water know to get up near the top of that holding tank and no higher? Remember this tank is not an enclosed pressure tank. The lid comes off it. What establishes that water to be up there at the level I found it?

We will be getting new countertops in about a month and I would like to replace the old reverse osmosis faucet that we currently have. We have a kenmore r/o system that is approximately 7-10 years old. I won't be able to access the model number until later but was currious as to what recommendations anyone may have regarding replacement faucets. Can I use faucets from other manufacturers? We like the look of the oil rubber bronze faucets, however when I called sears they do offer this style. Thanks for any suggestions.