Correct settings for a Culligan Water Softener (Medalist Series, I believe)


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Old 12-06-12, 03:29 PM
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Correct settings for a Culligan Water Softener (Medalist Series, I believe)

I need what I hope is some basic help here as I'm fairly handy once I understand things. I could call Culligan but I'd rather not. So, here's my situation.

We have a Culligan Water Softener in our home and I believe, based on the images on the Culligan site, that it's one from the medalist series. However, for at least the past several months I've suspected that our water was still hard because of water spots/stains and our dishes that have any kind of graphics (beer glasses, measuring cups, tc.) look like they've been sandblasted.

I just purchased a TDS EZ Digital Tester (probably not THE most scientific method, I know) and when I tested it, it shows 390ppm. According to the back of the tester, 200ppm and above is considered hard and 500ppm is the EPA minimum for "clean" water.

In checking the softener (photos posted to verify if I've got the correct model) these are the current settings:

SLtP (Salt Dosage) = 10.0
buu (backwash time) = 10
br (brine rinse time) = 60
CAPG (regeneration interval in gallons) = 1000

I'm assuming my interpretation of all these entries is correct based on 1) other threads on this forum and 2) the "key" inside the cover of the unit.

I've taken a broom handle and stirred up the salt to insure there aren't any salt bridges.

So, any thoughts on what settings I should change if any? Would switching to regeneration to a time interval be better than gallons? Thanks in advance for any help!
 
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Old 12-06-12, 04:57 PM
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Your setting look good. Pretty standard. What you probably have is worn pistons and orings meaning that it is time to have the unit rebuilt. Culligan will do it for you, or for about $60+ you can get the rebuild kit and orings and do it yourself.

More information about your incoming water is really needed for setting up your unit, but what you have there is usually a good starting point.
 
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Old 12-06-12, 05:06 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. It confirms my thought that I probably just need to give Culligan a call. We're currently leasing the unit and it's only about 1.5 years old so I'm assuming (hoping) any repair would be covered. At any rate, again your feedback is much appreciated and helpful in pointing me in the right direction. Thanks again!
 
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Old 12-07-12, 07:52 AM
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1. A softener will typically slightly increase TDS.

2. TDS is not a test for whether a softener is working because softening is an ion exchange process which replaces hardness ions (primarily calcium and magnesium) with sodium ions.

3. To determine whether a softener is working you need to test for the amount of "total hardness" in the treated water. Total hardness of less than 1 grain per gallon (less than 17.1 ppm/gal) is considered soft water.
 
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Old 12-07-12, 08:59 AM
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Bob - thanks for the additional feedback. After my posts yesterday, I realized that the tester I'm using won't help in my case because, as you pointed out, it TDS doesn't change with a softener.

I tried the not-so-scientific method of the "soap suds" test, i.e. fill a 20oz bottle half full of water, add 10 drops of soap, shake and if it suds - somewhat reliable indicator that it's soft water. However, I know many soap manufactures add things that make them more sudsy - even with hard water - hence the "somewhat reliable" indicator. In my case, it did suds up rather nicely.

Also, I do know the softener is using salt as the level goes down. But in the salt tank, I notice it smells pretty bad - akin to a dead mouse - but I'm pretty sure there's nothing in there. Is that normal?

Last but certainly not least - what is a reliable test for total water hardness?

Thanks again!
 
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Old 12-07-12, 09:13 AM
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This kit will do all you need to determine if your softner is working... Its what I use. Its pretty accurate. Stay away from any strip type testers.

Total Hardness Test Kit, Model 5-B - Overview | Hach
 
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Old 12-07-12, 09:46 AM
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As lawrosa recommends the Hach 5b is a readily available and reasonably priced test kit for hardness used by many professionals.

I wouldn't consider a bad odor in the brine tank normal. The odor may come from your raw water but it could be something that got in the brine tank. I suggest you clean and sanitize the brine tank by pouring out the water, removing the salt, washing the inside of the tank with a detergent and bleach solution, and then replacing the salt and adding water to restore the water level to what it was before you started. Finally add 2oz of unscented household bleach to the brine well and do a manual regeneration. This will sanitize the resin bed.
 
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Old 12-07-12, 06:26 PM
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If you are leasing it like you said you shouldn't even think about it. If you feel something is wrong, have them come out and give it a good once over. Most of the time when the tech comes he should be able to leave you one of their soap test kits.
 
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Old 12-08-12, 07:13 AM
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Thanks everyone for the replies. I'll give Culligan a call and have them come out. Might pick up one of those hardness testing kits as I like to keep an eye on things myself anyway.
 
 

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