Help with water treatment system!


Old 07-24-13, 06:28 PM
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Help with water treatment system!

We had a new water treatment system installed only a few months ago and we have been having problems with it. The main issues with our well water are soluble iron with a level of 4 slightly acidic (pH 6.0) and a sulfur odor.

The system we had installed is as follows. First in line is a chemical feed system to correct pH and the sulfur odor, the reservoir has a combination of sodium hydroxide and bleach in it. From there it goes to a WaterSoft Provectr Plus system composed of an oxidizing tank followed by an iron filter. From there it goes to a dual tank WaterSoft softener system. It worked okay for a month or two (we thought, but my wife's color treated hair told us otherwise), then we started having rusty water appearing from our faucets. It was mostly in the evenings and ranged from yellowish to bright orange. We had the plumbing company out several times who installed the system. First they said the pH was incorrect and made adjustments to the chemical tank. Also some sort of valve was clogged and the aerating pump for the oxidizer was not coming on because it wasn't detecting flow. He fixed that and things were ok for about a week, but then the orange water returned. Next they switched out the filter tank for one with fresh resin/filter media even though it was only a month or so old. This seemed to help for a few weeks but then one evening we had yellowish water again intermittently. We had it tested when it was clear looking and the soluble iron level was still 1.5.

The company seems at a loss at what the problem is, so we got another water treatment company to come out and see what they said. He said the order of our system was wrong. He said the chemical feed should be last (after the softener) and also that almost nobody uses an oxidizer anymore. That really we should just have the filter for precipitated iron and have that followed by the softener to remove the soluble iron and then the chemical feed last. From what I have read, using a softener to remove soluble iron at our level is not idea and will shorten the life of the softener as well as use massive amounts of salt. He also changed our iron filter to regenerate every day.

We had one more company come out, who did not mention anything about the general system of our set up but confirmed through water testing that the iron filter is not working but he wasn't sure why exactly. He seemed adamant that our filter should NOT be regenerating every day. He also remarked although our softener was working that the level of the resin in the tanks was lower than it should be and also at different levels in either tank and that it should be the same. He said they may have been filled improperly.

So we have one company who installed the system that isn't working and can't seem to fix it, another who tells us our equiptment is in the wrong order, and a third who seems to want to sell us their own version of the iron filter.

Anybody have any ideas? Should we call yet another company?

Specifically regarding the order of our components as well as anybody with experience with watersoft equipment and why the brand new iron filter might not be working.
Old 07-24-13, 07:12 PM
lawrosa's Avatar
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The order is most likely correct from what I now No way injection after...

... Yes oxidizing is not used and often cloggs. I would never install that type system.

You should not combine bleach and soda ash.... have a bleach injection seperate first in line and a calcite filter instead of soda ashto raise ph... IMO...

Now... what iron filter do you have??? And its after the mixing tank correct?

I have been on wells all my life and have had many systems... but there are pros here with better knowledge them I....

Also can you post your complete water results?????

Dont panic.... This may be a long process and we can help....
Old 07-25-13, 02:04 PM
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In order to remove iron effectively, the pH must be 7.0 or above. So coming from the pressure the first thing should be the Ph neutralizer followed a check valve to prevent water flowing backwards into the pH neutralizer then the injection of chlorine. The water should go into a 120 gal retention tank for contact time. Come out of the top of the tank to a flow switch to control the chlorinator. Then the iron filter and softener. I use carbon as the iron filter because of it is light weight and does not require a lot of flow rate to backwash. Other iron medias are heavy and foul out prematurely because of lack of proper flow rate to backwash. So you need to know what media they used for the iron filter. Also, the resin levels should be the same in both tanks.

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