Living with a dug well, treatment systems - Want to service myself.

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Old 10-19-14, 05:06 PM
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Living with a dug well, treatment systems - Want to service myself.

Hello,

I have a 13' dug well servicing our home, which we bought in April of this year.

I had the water tested at purchase, and was surprised that it tested fine on detailed chemical / mineral and biological analysis.

The gear involved in the treatment of the water is an acid neutralizer, softener, sediment filter, and UV light - plumbed in that order.

I am trying to understand the equipment a little better, so that I might be able to service it myself, with regular PH testing, bacteria test every 6 months, and full spread chemical analysis yearly.

I have attached pics of the gear, and wonder if I might ask a couple questions..

The guy who serviced water for the previous owner told me he modified the gear somewhat, and I think that might have to do with the acid neutralizer - he told me calcite is used, and maybe it was topped up twice yearly or less.

Obviously the valve is suspect, and I imagine I will replace it. Is this type of valve designed so that you have to manually regenerate ? I don't think it does anything automatically at this point, beyond advancing time and day. The cam popped off, before I zip tied the case down - not sure what position it was set to, so I put it on "Conditioned water"

The cam on the valve looks like it's been modified, as lobes seemed to have been trimmed and/or removed, to suit whatever idea the installer had.

The softener seems to work as designed, with regen scheduled for 2am - I think the model senses when it's time for backwash - but not sure.

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Old 10-19-14, 05:12 PM
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Here is the pic of the cam I mentioned. Also note the cam is set to "conditioned water". If I need to manually deal with this for now, not sure how often I should regenerate, and what order/frequency I would do "backwash", "start" (is that how to run it automatically?) "brine" "fast rinse" etc.

Thanks for reading..

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Old 10-20-14, 05:13 PM
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The locking pin is missing Softenerparts.com
To start a regen, simply push in the black button or let the timer do it.
 
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Old 10-20-14, 05:22 PM
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Perfect.. I understand.. Thanks!
 
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Old 10-21-14, 07:32 PM
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Ok, I think I understand part of the approach to my system..

I found a tag saying "WG 1040" on my neutralizer.

When I look that up, I find reference to a softener. So basically, I figure someone took a Culligan WG 1040 softener and repurposed it to be an acid neutralizer.

Anyone have an opinion on that? Perhaps this is why the "cam" was modified.

Last night I moved the selector to "start" and left it to do it's thing, and when I checked after work, it had made it's way back to "conditioned water", via the timer I suppose.

I'm going to have water test done at the end of the week, and I guess it's time to get a PH test kit as well.

Any suggestions on that front?

Thanks.
 
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Old 10-22-14, 03:41 AM
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You do not have a Culligan. The pH neutralizer is an Autotrol 255 model with a 440 timer. The softener is an EcoWater system. The 1040 is the tank size 10 dia x 40" high. Instead of using the proper cam for a backwash filter, someone may have modified a softener cam but not sure.
 
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Old 10-22-14, 04:29 AM
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Thank you biermech, that is very helpful. As I continue to read more about softening / neutralizing, and the upkeep of the gear - I realize I have a lot to learn.

One final question - Would you suggest I need to do the backwash cycle on the nteutralizer manually (by moving button to "start" position) at determined intervals, or is that setup designed to do it automatically via that timer (and I simply leave it in the "conditioned" position) ?

Thank you, I'll also research Autotrol 255 and the 440 timer. Found the lock pin for the timer on the floor!
 
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Old 10-22-14, 08:11 PM
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Never mind.. I found a video explaining all the operation of the timer and how to set it, pins etc. Thanks again.
 
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Old 10-29-14, 08:23 PM
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Yea that's a softener cam but someone broke off a piece that does more of either rinse cycle which the neutralize doesn't really need to do, glad you found the locking pin guess you can cut those zip straps holding the timer down
 
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