Replacing old/leaking acid neutralizer and tank, need input on plumbing connect

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Old 11-08-14, 06:38 AM
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Replacing old/leaking acid neutralizer and tank, need input on plumbing connect

Hi all,

I'm new to acid neutralizers and well water systems but not to plumbing work.

Bought a house a year ago and my acid neutralizer is now leaking. Its so old that I have to just replace the entire unit.

To keep cost down, I'm going with a replacement unit with a Fleck 5600 head (not digital) and a tank where the control head must be removed to add more media.

So,

1. When I was opening the current tank to be drained, even though I'd opened the lower relief valve, the tank was still pressurized. *How do you open a new tank with the control head mounted on top without blowing the control head to the ceiling due to the pressure?

2. As I'm going to be removing the control head roughly once per year, I'll have to undo the plumbing connections - inlet/outlet water lines (the backwash line is simply hose clamp and a disconnection at the barb fitting). These are currently CPVC and I'm thinking of sticking with CPVC but my concern is disconnecting from the control head. Do they make CPVC unions? Can I use a union or similar on each connection to the control head?

Thank you in advance!

-Bob
 
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Old 11-08-14, 10:52 AM
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Why not find a media tank with a dome hole plug?
Also a Fleck 2510 would be a better valve for the nuet, one can move pins for each part of the cycle and if the tank or valve needs to be removed for service there is a clamp that holds the valve to the tank adapter... also both the 5600 and 2510 have adapters with clips that hold the valve body to the bypass of ones choice.. thus no need to worry about the plumping to and from the unit.
 
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Old 11-09-14, 05:50 AM
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Having a bypass valve will make de-pressurizing the unit very easy and also allow you to disconnect the valve from the plumbing.
 
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Old 11-17-14, 06:29 AM
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Thank you both for the replies. I wanted to spend as little $$ as possible, hence the tank where the control head is removed to add media instead of having a separate fill hole.

The 2510 is a quicker backwash but uses more water. I don't care about the backwash speed, using less water is good (not a requirement), and for the cost difference, the 2510 doesn't do anything the 5600 doesn't that I care about.

Thanks - yes, I see that all newer control heads or tanks sold with control heads are being sold with a bypass valve. On my current setup, that was built out of the supply line plumbing from the pressure tank to the neutralizer to the rest of the system. Yep - understand how that all works now and will be replacing all plumbing from the pressure tank to the neutralizer to the manifold and cold side of the water heater. Thanks! I appreciate the help!
 
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Old 11-17-14, 09:10 AM
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Removing the valve from a tank that has media in it is a PAIN IN The Seat....... each time that valve comes off you have the chance to pull the distributor up and unseat it from the bottom of the tank and then you have more tube at the top, cut? then when it does get back into the gravel it could be to short and come out of the valve.....
There is a difference between the two valves.. if both are standard non digital then there is NO WAY to program the length of the cleaning cycle and if your going to be using calcite and mag ox then you need to make sure there is bed expansion about every 3 days, not enough and the bed will become hard and the tank will have be taken to the dump.

From the sounds of it you have a plan for what is going to happen, wonder why your looking for input.
 
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Old 11-17-14, 10:47 AM
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Yes, I have a plan now after doing further research after the first two comments and talking with the company I ended up purchasing from.

Thanks for your initial comments
 
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