Hi folks, looking to see if you have any recommendations to cut metal. I searched on here and there’s a few conversations about it, but they don’t seem to be about the same metal that I’m trying to cut. I need to cut the metal shell of a clothes washing machine (the top loader kind, not front loader kind). Not sure what type of metal that is (steel?), or what thickness, but it’s got a little thickness to it as opposed to an aluminum downspout which is a lot thinner. I have a table saw, chop saw, grinder, jigsaw, and circular saw. I’m assuming the circular saw or grinder might be my best bet. (For a little better description, the “shell” that I’m referring to is if you were to look at the washer, it’s one piece of sheet metal that goes from the left side, to the front, to the right side....poorly pictured below haha.)
thanks!
Last edited by John Palatzo; 03-21-21 at 07:04 AM.
It will all depend on what you are trying to do. A grinder or circular saw with a metal cutting blade would work but might not be the cleanest cut. Tin snips would likely work as well but might not be the straightest.
IMO tin ships would be difficult. The few times I've cut up an appliance to use the steel for something else I either used a fiber blade in a skilsaw or a grinder.
Personally, I am not a fan of fiber blades now that there are better options out there. Fiber blades can break and wear down quickly when cutting sheet metal.
Thanks for all the suggestions folks, really appreciate it. If you want to know a little background, I was trying to use the washing machine metal as a cover for a generator. I recently picked up my first used generator, so I’m still getting used to it. Then I realized the times we lose power are typically the times when the weather is crappy, so I started researching generator covers and boxes. The pictures below are the metal piece of a washer fitting right over the generator. Unfortunately it’s a very tight fit. I figured if I got a few of them, I could cut them to be a little bigger (kind of like a teepee or a tent). I wasn’t sure about using wood to make a cover because I wasn’t sure if there was a possible hazard of the wood catching on fire.
The other side is exactly the same as the side that you see in the picture. Yes, I agree, doesn’t leave much room for ventilation on the top. That’s kind of why I was looking to get multiple of these metal pieces so I can open it up a little.
I think windswept rain that close to the ground is overthinking the issue.
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I'd snip the reinforcing "edge" at the very top and bend a "peaked roof" into the top panel. Probably fold over the snipped edges as triangles and then screw them together for a little reinforcement.
I did something similar with a borrowed generator, but found that it was much easier to scrounge up a plastic dog kennel that was missing the metal grill. Using the plastic bottom turned out to be a good trick, it made it VERY easy to slide the generator over the snow.
I'm trying to make a submersible stove for a wood hot tub (spring project).
I've seen that mig is not great at welding thin aluminum sheet. However, I'm a beginner welder and mig is the easiest of the options.
Do you think it'll work for a 16 guage sheet?
or better still... Flux
I guess the alternative is propane and a stick? Kind of long though.
I've got a drain plug that is giving me fits. Its an ordinary 3/4" npt magnetic drain plug, with a square female fitting. And its so tight that the side of the female fitting has busted off, making it impossible to remove with a 1/2" square socket adapter, since it now only has 3 sides and is now even more difficult to remove.
Ordinarily I would ask my dad to weld a nut onto it, and then use a regular socket on it. Problem is, dad is getting old and no longer can do this sort of thing. Last time I tried to have him weld up a steel hinge onto a door he just kept burning holes in the steel. So I really don't even want to ask him for fear he might burn a hole in this gear tank.
I guess my next thought was, would jb weld work for this? Would it have enough holding power, once cured, to hold the nut onto the plug so that I could break it loose? Or would it just not be able to hold that much torque? Any thoughts?
This is on my skid loader and I really don't want to take it anywhere to have it worked on if I don't have to.... its parked in the garage and I'd like to do it myself, if possible.
I also thought I might stick a short 1/2" adapter into the female plug with jb weld all around it. That might be better than a nut.