Septic problems
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Septic problems
I've got a house that was built in 1963 with a gravity septic system. Two toilets in the house, and one in the shop (built in ~1997) that uses a sump pump system to eject out to the main tank. The shop toilet gets very little use. Three bedrooms, two showers in the house with three people.
The system has a number of major problems that were uncovered this week. The mainline from the house to the tank is cracked (concrete pipe) on the bottom and leaking a little. The outlet baffle is corroded away. The pipe from the outlet to the distribution box is broken off at the d box and corroded away.
Most significant, the drain-field is not taking water. The water is backed up in the d-box and not going anywhere. The drain-field is soaked. Looks like there are two lines coming off the d-box. One that goes out to the backyard, and one that apparently runs underneath the shop that was built back in about 97. Was hoping that I could get away with replacing the mainline and the outlet line to the d-box. Then having the d-box and drain-field lines vac pumped. The tech that inspected the field this morning would not do a vac pump, as he felt it would be a waste of ~$500 and may just collapse what is left of the line. Much as I hate to admit it he is probably right. The drain-field is just very wet and there is no place for the effluent to go.
The property does have dryer land up hill from the current drain field, although the property is rather narrow between the house and the fence... not to mention there is a pond, deck, landscaping etc that will likely have to come out. The tech suggested that what would probably need to be done is have a second pump tank installed and pump the effluent up to the dry part of the property, or install a mound type system. He mentioned that his company tries to not install the mound type systems as they don't have the greatest reliability record.
I realize this is going to be a spendy proposition. There goes the racing budget for 04 . But I don't see as how I have many options...
So, I'm looking for suggestions and pointers on finding a septic contractor to do this? I will check my counties website for approved vendors and I have the company that just pumped the tank and inspected the field coming out tomorrow for a quote.
Also, I guess we need to severely cut back on our water use as we only have the 700-900 gallons of space in the tank before it fills up again and has no place to go. Pumping it each time is about $300.
Finally, is this about the life span of these older septic systems? About 40-45 years?
Any other advice on this adventure would be greatly appreciated.
Wayne
The system has a number of major problems that were uncovered this week. The mainline from the house to the tank is cracked (concrete pipe) on the bottom and leaking a little. The outlet baffle is corroded away. The pipe from the outlet to the distribution box is broken off at the d box and corroded away.
Most significant, the drain-field is not taking water. The water is backed up in the d-box and not going anywhere. The drain-field is soaked. Looks like there are two lines coming off the d-box. One that goes out to the backyard, and one that apparently runs underneath the shop that was built back in about 97. Was hoping that I could get away with replacing the mainline and the outlet line to the d-box. Then having the d-box and drain-field lines vac pumped. The tech that inspected the field this morning would not do a vac pump, as he felt it would be a waste of ~$500 and may just collapse what is left of the line. Much as I hate to admit it he is probably right. The drain-field is just very wet and there is no place for the effluent to go.
The property does have dryer land up hill from the current drain field, although the property is rather narrow between the house and the fence... not to mention there is a pond, deck, landscaping etc that will likely have to come out. The tech suggested that what would probably need to be done is have a second pump tank installed and pump the effluent up to the dry part of the property, or install a mound type system. He mentioned that his company tries to not install the mound type systems as they don't have the greatest reliability record.
I realize this is going to be a spendy proposition. There goes the racing budget for 04 . But I don't see as how I have many options...
So, I'm looking for suggestions and pointers on finding a septic contractor to do this? I will check my counties website for approved vendors and I have the company that just pumped the tank and inspected the field coming out tomorrow for a quote.
Also, I guess we need to severely cut back on our water use as we only have the 700-900 gallons of space in the tank before it fills up again and has no place to go. Pumping it each time is about $300.
Finally, is this about the life span of these older septic systems? About 40-45 years?
Any other advice on this adventure would be greatly appreciated.
Wayne
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Location: Northeastern NC On The Albemarle Sound
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Sounds like your existing system has about had it.
There are a lot of new types of systems out there that do just as well, and don't take up nearly as much room as a conventional system.
Check with your local Health Department for state-approved alternative systems. You'll need a permit from them anyway. Try to avoid an affluent pump (cost and maintenance) if at all possible.
Good Luck!
Mike
There are a lot of new types of systems out there that do just as well, and don't take up nearly as much room as a conventional system.
Check with your local Health Department for state-approved alternative systems. You'll need a permit from them anyway. Try to avoid an affluent pump (cost and maintenance) if at all possible.
Good Luck!
Mike
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Thanks guys. Here is what I've found out so far:
Talked with the county, and they faxed me the certified designers list and the certified installers list. There are 33 companies on the designers list and 98 on the installers list. There are only three companies listed on both lists. One of these is the one I've been working with to date, and have their designer coming out tomorrow. This is easily the largest outfit in the county. Called and left a message with the other two.
Strange thing is when I look in my county yellow pages there is a bunch of listings for "septic" people. Many of these only deal with tank pumping, line cleaning etc. But there are some that specifically list drain-field installation yet they are not on the approved list. I guess they just act as the general and sub-out the design and install?
How does this typically work? Do all these installers act as a general and sub-out the design work, or is it up to me to be the go-between?
The guy at the county also mentioned another possible option. The "resident owner application for a repair permit". "The snohomish county health department will assist the resident owner in the design of conventional on-site sewage disposal systems only. Repair designs that require the use of an alternative system must be submitted by a certified designer or engineer". When I explained my situation of a flooded existing drain-field and possibly having to pump up to a drain-field of higher elevation. He thought that was a relatively straight forward situation, and may qualify for the resident owner permit deal.
Prior to submitting the application I would have to dig two test holes, described the soil color etc. And provide a complete plot plan of the property. The county guy says this route could save me ~$1000 by having the county do the design work, and me contracting with an installer.
While I am all for saving money. I'm concerned about the possible disconnect between designer and installer. Furthermore I'm assuming there would be no guarantees on system function from the county... and not sure an installer would provide a guarantee for someone else's design?
The tech that was here this morning (from the large company) said he thought his company provided a two year guarantee. And according to the list this company does both design and installation.
Soooo, how important is it to use a company that does both design and installation in-house? Do you think the county design route has any merit???
BTW, I did ask the county if they has a list of approved alternative systems, and he said there was not a specific list. I did however find the county health district sanitary code, and am reading through the 50 pages right now. So far just a bunch of stuff on qualified designers/installers, but no mention of specific alternative systems.
Any further guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks
Wayne
Talked with the county, and they faxed me the certified designers list and the certified installers list. There are 33 companies on the designers list and 98 on the installers list. There are only three companies listed on both lists. One of these is the one I've been working with to date, and have their designer coming out tomorrow. This is easily the largest outfit in the county. Called and left a message with the other two.
Strange thing is when I look in my county yellow pages there is a bunch of listings for "septic" people. Many of these only deal with tank pumping, line cleaning etc. But there are some that specifically list drain-field installation yet they are not on the approved list. I guess they just act as the general and sub-out the design and install?
How does this typically work? Do all these installers act as a general and sub-out the design work, or is it up to me to be the go-between?
The guy at the county also mentioned another possible option. The "resident owner application for a repair permit". "The snohomish county health department will assist the resident owner in the design of conventional on-site sewage disposal systems only. Repair designs that require the use of an alternative system must be submitted by a certified designer or engineer". When I explained my situation of a flooded existing drain-field and possibly having to pump up to a drain-field of higher elevation. He thought that was a relatively straight forward situation, and may qualify for the resident owner permit deal.
Prior to submitting the application I would have to dig two test holes, described the soil color etc. And provide a complete plot plan of the property. The county guy says this route could save me ~$1000 by having the county do the design work, and me contracting with an installer.
While I am all for saving money. I'm concerned about the possible disconnect between designer and installer. Furthermore I'm assuming there would be no guarantees on system function from the county... and not sure an installer would provide a guarantee for someone else's design?
The tech that was here this morning (from the large company) said he thought his company provided a two year guarantee. And according to the list this company does both design and installation.
Soooo, how important is it to use a company that does both design and installation in-house? Do you think the county design route has any merit???
BTW, I did ask the county if they has a list of approved alternative systems, and he said there was not a specific list. I did however find the county health district sanitary code, and am reading through the 50 pages right now. So far just a bunch of stuff on qualified designers/installers, but no mention of specific alternative systems.
Any further guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks
Wayne
#5
FWIW, I'm having a new septic system installed. And my 'perc test' (where they drill the holes) did not pass for the capacity of the home.
I'm having to have an additional test done, by an outside company, and was told that this would likely be the final solution, providing it worked.
At the end of each drain line, a hole, 20-30 FEET deep would be augered out and then back filled with sand. I didn't catch the diameter of the hole, but I presumed 8-12" in diameter.
The first bore test is about $200, and I am on a 2-3 week waiting list.
I'm having to have an additional test done, by an outside company, and was told that this would likely be the final solution, providing it worked.
At the end of each drain line, a hole, 20-30 FEET deep would be augered out and then back filled with sand. I didn't catch the diameter of the hole, but I presumed 8-12" in diameter.
The first bore test is about $200, and I am on a 2-3 week waiting list.