pump turning on with pressure switch and then cycles on/off until full


  #1  
Old 11-02-04, 04:12 PM
xenon2000
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pump turning on with pressure switch and then cycles on/off until full - FIXED

I recently checked on the well house and noticed that as the tank was pressurizing, the pressure switch would stay on until it reaches about 60 psi, which I think is normal, but while the pressure switch is on and the pump has power, it cycles on/off about every 10 secs. 10 sec on, 10 sec off, 10 sec on, etc.etc.... until it reaches 60 psi and the pressure switch turns off the pump. I have no idea if it always did this or not, it is a new pump about 3 years old. I just never thought about it when they did the new pump.

We have had water the whole time and the pressure has always seemed fine. Though I always thought that the pump stayed on 100% until it reached the top pressure and then turned off with the pressure switch. But it does a 50% duty cycle on/off while pressurizing until full. Is that normal? Does that mean it's a multistage pump? etc.? Any info would be great. We still have water and pressure and it's a new 3 year old pump. Just wondering if that is the normal thing.
 

Last edited by xenon2000; 11-07-04 at 10:34 PM. Reason: FIXED
  #2  
Old 11-03-04, 07:48 AM
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It is not normal for the pump to cycle until cutout pressure is reached. It should run continously.
A multistage pump is one that has more than one impeller. It has nothing to do with pumping cycles.
At this point, I would check the pressure tank for waterlogging. If it's a bladder type, depress the air valve on top. If water comes out, the bladder is bad and needs to be replaced. To check the precharge pressure, turn the pump off and drain the system. Use a tire gauge on the air valve. The precharge should be 2 psi less than cutin pressure (i.e. pump comes on at 30 psi, the precharge should be 28 psi). Add or remove air as necessary.
If it's a galvanized steel tank, turn the pump off, drain the system and remove any pipe fitting that will allow air (atmospheric pressure) to enter the tank. This will re-establish the air cushion in the tank.
While you're at it, check the line and fittings between the pressure switch and wherever it is plumbed in to make sure nothing is plugged up. If the switch can't sense the correct pressure, it will make the pump cycle, also.
Ron
 
  #3  
Old 11-03-04, 09:26 AM
offroadcat
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What does a water logged tank have to do with a motor kicking on and off?

My well pump just started to do the same thing. When it hits 20lbs the well kicks on, then cycles on and off about 10 seconds each until it hits the full mark of 40lbs. Now in my world the motor should stay running as long as the points on the pressure switch stay closed (but it does not). Why would it turn off when it still has power ? A water logged tank would only reduce the amount of reserve water pressure I have until the pump needs to turn on again.

Also once the tank is full if I kill the power (curcuit breaker) my pressure does NOT bleed down and I have plenty of water to run toliets and faucets, even overnight.

I believe the pump is failing and is cycling on/off on its own.

Any thoughts ??

Dale
 
  #4  
Old 11-03-04, 09:59 AM
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Wink

If as you say the points stay closed Id check the capacitor and put a amprobe on the power line and see what it draws.

ED
 
  #5  
Old 11-04-04, 04:12 PM
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If the pump is shutting down and still has power going to it, then I'd say the thermal overloads are doing it. The overloads are there to protect the motor. Either there is a problem with the motor itself, or a problem with the supplied power.
Check things as Ed suggested, but I'm betting you'll be replacing a motor.
Ron
 
  #6  
Old 11-04-04, 07:13 PM
xenon2000
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thanks, still working on it.

Thanks for the replys. Our pump is definately getting constant power from the pressure switch and the cycling of the pump is happen at the pump end of things. We had the wire recently replace with new wire due to one of the power leads having been cracked half way down the well. Which was causing a big load on the breakers and tripping them. Now the pump gets full constant power, but I would have to double check on if it's the same full power to each of the Two 110volt lines after the pressure switch. But it probably is.

I just installed 2 new valves, the old ones wouldn't shut off. And now I have verified that the tank doesn't leak. The tank is a galvanized metal tank. It had the main inlet open to the air when we lifted the pump out, so the air is correct, etc.

I think it may be the pump like you suggest. I am going to double check the pressure switch and see if I can get some AMP readings on the pump running, etc.
 
  #7  
Old 11-07-04, 10:32 PM
xenon2000
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Thumbs up All DONE

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions. Pump was definately bad. It is now replaced. New pump, new wire, new tank valves. Everything works great and pump stays on constantly until the tank pressure is 60 psi. Thanks again.
 
  #8  
Old 11-10-04, 05:53 AM
offroadcat
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My pump was bad also

We finally had a well man put a amp meter on the pump draw. It was to high. We pulled the pump, it was a 1 hp from 1981. We put in a 1/2 hp and everything works great.

Thanks for all of the ideas.
 
 

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