Well Pressure
#1
Well Pressure
I recently had to have a new well pump installed.
Its an Aermotor 1/2 HP Submerged. The pressure guage shows an average of 35 PSI, and when it pumps in it will stay at 50 for a short time. The manual to the pump mentions nothing of max pressure, how high can I set the pressure to? I don't want to burn my pump up.
Its an Aermotor 1/2 HP Submerged. The pressure guage shows an average of 35 PSI, and when it pumps in it will stay at 50 for a short time. The manual to the pump mentions nothing of max pressure, how high can I set the pressure to? I don't want to burn my pump up.
#2
The gauge should be at 30 (or so) when the tank is nearly empty and the pump kicks in, and rise to 50 (or so) when full and the pump stops. Without any usage, the gauge should stay at the top reading. If it does not, you have a leak somewhere. As you use water it should reduce slowly to 30 (or so). On most systems it is possible to raise this to 40-60 , more than that puts a strain on older soldered fittings.
As you had this recently installed, a competent technician should have spotted any pressure drops or leaks and fixed them - BEWARE,- some well companies employ untrained and witless staff.
As you had this recently installed, a competent technician should have spotted any pressure drops or leaks and fixed them - BEWARE,- some well companies employ untrained and witless staff.
#3
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As nomind alluded to, most systems can be set to 40/60 cutin/cutout. However, there are factors that can affect that, such as pump depth, water level, etc. Do you have anymore info on the well and pump? Your installer should have had some info on which to base his decision to use a certain pump.
Ron
Ron
#5
Hi Mattfox, the Aermotor 1/2 is a pretty good pump, I've had some of them running up to 75 psi, in houses with NEW plumbing and new tank. Raising to this level of pressure is not going to hurt the pump, but MAY hurt your older bladder tanks and soldered joints .
(- earlier this year I was at a farmhouse that had a big new tank and was at 72 psi to help with irrigation. The problem was a pinhole leak in an outside pipe to his irrigation faucet, I asked the owner to close the 3/4 ball valve at the tank while I did the repair, then asked him to switch it on again. -he yanked it on so fast that the instant 72 psi blew the soldered faucet right off the line .
)
(- earlier this year I was at a farmhouse that had a big new tank and was at 72 psi to help with irrigation. The problem was a pinhole leak in an outside pipe to his irrigation faucet, I asked the owner to close the 3/4 ball valve at the tank while I did the repair, then asked him to switch it on again. -he yanked it on so fast that the instant 72 psi blew the soldered faucet right off the line .

Last edited by nomind; 12-01-04 at 01:50 PM. Reason: clarity
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What's wrong with the PVC? In many instances it is better than copper. It is actually PVC, the white plastic tight? Tan off white is CPVC. CPVC can be used for both cold and hot while PVC can only be used on cold. PVC has a larger ID than the same size CPVC.
The choce of water line material should be based on present and future water quality particulars that do not allow or are not good for the use of copper; like DO and/or CO2 or chloride TD etc. content and low pH and other things that damages copper. Plastics are inert meaning they don't/can't ad anything to the water and are not able to be damagged by anything foumd in supposedly potable water. The same can not be said for copper. Thee are many millions being spent right now to replace pinholed copper tubing and many more to fix resulting water damage. But if you must replace, look at PEX first.
Gary
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The choce of water line material should be based on present and future water quality particulars that do not allow or are not good for the use of copper; like DO and/or CO2 or chloride TD etc. content and low pH and other things that damages copper. Plastics are inert meaning they don't/can't ad anything to the water and are not able to be damagged by anything foumd in supposedly potable water. The same can not be said for copper. Thee are many millions being spent right now to replace pinholed copper tubing and many more to fix resulting water damage. But if you must replace, look at PEX first.
Gary
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Last edited by Doug Aleshire; 03-11-05 at 07:15 PM.
#8
All of the cold water lines are White PVC. Hot water is the tan color, so I assume its CPVC.
My only concern witht the PVC is it is pretty flimsy stuff, I woudln't mind it as much if it was a little thicker. I would be worried if I upped the water pressure that I would have some leaks.
Plus they're laying water lines right now, and it may be mandatory for me to hook up, so I imagine I may have problems with pressure if I have to do that too.
My only concern witht the PVC is it is pretty flimsy stuff, I woudln't mind it as much if it was a little thicker. I would be worried if I upped the water pressure that I would have some leaks.
Plus they're laying water lines right now, and it may be mandatory for me to hook up, so I imagine I may have problems with pressure if I have to do that too.
#9
I dont believe anyone can REQUIRE you to hook to city water, at least thats not the case around here. If they did you can always add a pressure reducing valve to prevent troubles.
They can and do require hook up to city sewers for good health reasons..
They can and do require hook up to city sewers for good health reasons..
#10
Gary- I'm pleased that you pointed out Pex as good material. For the last five years that's been my pipe of choice in add-ons and new installations. - For those of you who've not heard of it , it's great stuff to work with. Comes in 1/2 , 3/4 and 1 and cuts easily with a cheap cutter( a bit like garden shears) It has a huge array of fittings and everything is crimped with a copper ring. There are cheap adapters to make it work with Poly-B, copper, PVC and Cpvc if you're doing an add-on. Pex pipe and fittings take up almost 20% of the space in my service van , great stuff

#11
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nomind, yep I like PEX too but mostly use sch 40 PVC for my equipment installs.
mattfox, sch 40 PVC has a higher pressure rating than CPVC; 480 @ 73f to 100 @ I think 180f or something like that. And IMO sch 40 PVC isn't filmsy, try breaking a piece of it and CPVC and I think you'll break the CPVC sooner. But you shouldn't be using PVC inside walls, from what I hear form plumbers, it's not approved for that.
Gary
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mattfox, sch 40 PVC has a higher pressure rating than CPVC; 480 @ 73f to 100 @ I think 180f or something like that. And IMO sch 40 PVC isn't filmsy, try breaking a piece of it and CPVC and I think you'll break the CPVC sooner. But you shouldn't be using PVC inside walls, from what I hear form plumbers, it's not approved for that.
Gary
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Last edited by Doug Aleshire; 03-11-05 at 07:15 PM.
#12
Bob Haller
They have said it will be required to hook on. However I did not hear that directly from them. I don't want to hook onto it becuase I don't want the 30 a month water bill. Sewers would be welcomed though, not as much to worry about that way.
Gary Slusser
All of the pipes in walls are copper. I guess I should just leave the pipes alone. They seem flimsy, but who knows, but you're right, they probably wouldn't be easy to break. I'm not the plumber, heh.
They have said it will be required to hook on. However I did not hear that directly from them. I don't want to hook onto it becuase I don't want the 30 a month water bill. Sewers would be welcomed though, not as much to worry about that way.
Gary Slusser
All of the pipes in walls are copper. I guess I should just leave the pipes alone. They seem flimsy, but who knows, but you're right, they probably wouldn't be easy to break. I'm not the plumber, heh.
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If by flimsy you mean they move, add a few braces or other supports and keep the kids from swinging on them.
Gary
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Gary
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Last edited by Doug Aleshire; 03-11-05 at 07:14 PM.