Pressure builds slowly
#1
12-28-04, 01:50 PM
Pressure builds slowly
My system was running fine until several weeks ago when everyone in the house noticed that the pressure during a shower does not stay at its normal level. Watching the pressure guage reveals that when someone is showering, after the pump kicks in the pressure either barely stays constant or drops further. When the faucet is closed, the pressure takes several minutes to build back up to the cut out pressure (much longer than in past).
Seems to me there are two potential problems
a) well running dry - seems unlikely - wettest year on record here, no problems ever reported previously (> 20 years), no problems in the neighborhood
b) pump is going bad - my bet
Anything I can do to confirm my theory?
Thanks.
MFV1
PS GREAT forum - wish I new about this when I was trying to learn about my system!
Seems to me there are two potential problems
a) well running dry - seems unlikely - wettest year on record here, no problems ever reported previously (> 20 years), no problems in the neighborhood
b) pump is going bad - my bet
Anything I can do to confirm my theory?
Thanks.
MFV1
PS GREAT forum - wish I new about this when I was trying to learn about my system!
#4
12-29-04, 02:32 PM
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Location: langley, in sunny fraser valley, bc , near vancouver
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Hi MFV1,
- what kind of pressure tank do you have ?
- does it have the right pressure ?
- is the pressure switch operating normally ?
- Are there any filters installed ?
- Have you inspected the pump control box ?
- these are the primary start points in your diagnosis, post back and let us know
- what kind of pressure tank do you have ?
- does it have the right pressure ?
- is the pressure switch operating normally ?
- Are there any filters installed ?
- Have you inspected the pump control box ?
- these are the primary start points in your diagnosis, post back and let us know
#5
01-01-05, 08:53 AM
* I have a Well-trol WX-203 pressure tank ("32 Gal", ~10 gal draw down)
* The pressure switch is set to 40/60 cut-in/cut out, which is within the limits set by Amtrol; it certainly appears to be working correctly, it shuts off when the pressure (eventually) reaches 60 psi, and turns on when the pressure reaches 40 psi. The pump just can't keep up with the demand, which was not a problem until a few months ago; until then, evfen with the water running (saya shower), the pressure would wuickly build back up to 60, and the pump would shut off.
* Do you want the pressure on the tank when "filled"with water or empty?
*There is a sediment filter on the system; there is no change in behavior when the filter is bypassed (opening and closing the appropriate valves). The filter was also recently replaced with no change in behavior.
*There is no pump control box in the hosue (is that something on the pump itself?)
* The pressure switch is set to 40/60 cut-in/cut out, which is within the limits set by Amtrol; it certainly appears to be working correctly, it shuts off when the pressure (eventually) reaches 60 psi, and turns on when the pressure reaches 40 psi. The pump just can't keep up with the demand, which was not a problem until a few months ago; until then, evfen with the water running (saya shower), the pressure would wuickly build back up to 60, and the pump would shut off.
* Do you want the pressure on the tank when "filled"with water or empty?
*There is a sediment filter on the system; there is no change in behavior when the filter is bypassed (opening and closing the appropriate valves). The filter was also recently replaced with no change in behavior.
*There is no pump control box in the hosue (is that something on the pump itself?)
#6
01-01-05, 11:50 PM
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Location: langley, in sunny fraser valley, bc , near vancouver
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Hi MFV, happy New Year,
-First check is watch the gauge when it's just finished pumping, and the valve to house is OFF. -If it drops you have a leak in the well. -If you have a clamp on meter, you can check pump amps at the wellhead. As there's no apparent control box, chances are it's a 2 wire pump, but I have seen control boxes stuffed into the top of the well tube
. Put your clamp on the black wire in either case. You are not checking for a specific amperage, because at this point we're not sure what the pump is. On an average 1/2 hp pump you should get 6 - 7.5 amps steady while running. On an average 3/4 - 7.5 - 9 amps. Check for STEADY amps, fluctuations indicate the pump being at water level and gulping air. Big amps, 14-20 would indicate the pump binding, and very low 4-5, indicate free running,(fractured shaft, or no water) While checking this listen for water spurting in the well ( split tube or broken fitting, check valve etc. ) All of this can be checked by pulling it, but why waste the energy if you have a meter. Post back and we'll go from there
-First check is watch the gauge when it's just finished pumping, and the valve to house is OFF. -If it drops you have a leak in the well. -If you have a clamp on meter, you can check pump amps at the wellhead. As there's no apparent control box, chances are it's a 2 wire pump, but I have seen control boxes stuffed into the top of the well tube
. Put your clamp on the black wire in either case. You are not checking for a specific amperage, because at this point we're not sure what the pump is. On an average 1/2 hp pump you should get 6 - 7.5 amps steady while running. On an average 3/4 - 7.5 - 9 amps. Check for STEADY amps, fluctuations indicate the pump being at water level and gulping air. Big amps, 14-20 would indicate the pump binding, and very low 4-5, indicate free running,(fractured shaft, or no water) While checking this listen for water spurting in the well ( split tube or broken fitting, check valve etc. ) All of this can be checked by pulling it, but why waste the energy if you have a meter. Post back and we'll go from there
