grinder pump/lift station pump dead
#1
12-29-04, 01:27 PM
grinder pump/lift station pump dead
This is a double post from the "plumbing and piping forum". Sorry for any inconvience. I realize this group might better answer pump questions.
The pump (that lifts the sewage uphill to the main) won't run manually or automatically. The alarm float makes the alarm light flash, and the other floats movements look ok (though I'm no expert on this). The pump is not hot.
The printed material for this Barnes SGV series pump says the impeller might be locked, but I don't know how to fix this. I also don't know how to do suggested electrical tests.
I could use help on the above or other ideas.
Thanks, in advance.
The pump (that lifts the sewage uphill to the main) won't run manually or automatically. The alarm float makes the alarm light flash, and the other floats movements look ok (though I'm no expert on this). The pump is not hot.
The printed material for this Barnes SGV series pump says the impeller might be locked, but I don't know how to fix this. I also don't know how to do suggested electrical tests.
I could use help on the above or other ideas.
Thanks, in advance.
#2
12-29-04, 01:48 PM
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Hi Sid,
- your first step would be to gain access to the pump. This may invlove placing a smaller portable pump in the chamber to get rid of at least some of the grey water. When you can see how the main pump is plumbed in, you should see a coupling immediately below the main check valve. Undo this coupling before attempting to lift the pump. Do NOT pull the pump on the tubing, that's a heavy pump and should have rope or chain attached to it. When the pump is out (and cleaned with a hose), unbolt the baseplate and you'll see the impeller. With power off try rotating this, and clear any obstructions. After clearance place the pump in a large bin of water, stand clear and switch it on momentarily. If it's more complicated, post back and we'll go from there.
- your first step would be to gain access to the pump. This may invlove placing a smaller portable pump in the chamber to get rid of at least some of the grey water. When you can see how the main pump is plumbed in, you should see a coupling immediately below the main check valve. Undo this coupling before attempting to lift the pump. Do NOT pull the pump on the tubing, that's a heavy pump and should have rope or chain attached to it. When the pump is out (and cleaned with a hose), unbolt the baseplate and you'll see the impeller. With power off try rotating this, and clear any obstructions. After clearance place the pump in a large bin of water, stand clear and switch it on momentarily. If it's more complicated, post back and we'll go from there.
#4
01-03-05, 01:34 PM
pump problem solved; pump life question
Here's a question and progress report:
The question: The control box is 9 years old; the grinder pump is 7-8 years old (the old one died of a tangled Kotex string, allegedly). Any guesses how long the box and the Barnes SGV series pump tend to last?
Progress report: It turns out the condenser and a relay (?) were fried.
Apparently the box had been wired to run a hydrostatic pump (it isn't), but that made one float do the job of on and off.
Worse yet, it was cycling on too much -- only a couple of inches of waste gathered before it ran; so it ran briefly but a lot -- which probably contributed to parts burning out.
My plumber failed, twice, to detect all this. I found an electrician who specializes in grinder pumps.
The question: The control box is 9 years old; the grinder pump is 7-8 years old (the old one died of a tangled Kotex string, allegedly). Any guesses how long the box and the Barnes SGV series pump tend to last?
Progress report: It turns out the condenser and a relay (?) were fried.
Apparently the box had been wired to run a hydrostatic pump (it isn't), but that made one float do the job of on and off.
Worse yet, it was cycling on too much -- only a couple of inches of waste gathered before it ran; so it ran briefly but a lot -- which probably contributed to parts burning out.
My plumber failed, twice, to detect all this. I found an electrician who specializes in grinder pumps.
#5
01-03-05, 01:55 PM
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: langley, in sunny fraser valley, bc , near vancouver
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Hi Sid,
- glad to hear you're getting to the bottom of it (no pun intended)
Control boxes, especially the complex ones are the causes of many failures. Lots of starting and short running is definitely bad for the start relays. Sounds like the original person who set this up knew nothing about float switches.
IMO , this is probably why most good well and pump guys have electrical backgrounds.
Barnes SGV is a good pump, I've seen many old ones still slogging along, but string or Kotex is a real killer. ( I used to service one at a yacht club where they persisted in flinging all kinds of ugly stuff down the "Ladies" toilet.
)
- glad to hear you're getting to the bottom of it (no pun intended)
Control boxes, especially the complex ones are the causes of many failures. Lots of starting and short running is definitely bad for the start relays. Sounds like the original person who set this up knew nothing about float switches.
IMO , this is probably why most good well and pump guys have electrical backgrounds.
Barnes SGV is a good pump, I've seen many old ones still slogging along, but string or Kotex is a real killer. ( I used to service one at a yacht club where they persisted in flinging all kinds of ugly stuff down the "Ladies" toilet.
)
