Pump will not shut off


  #1  
Old 01-03-05, 02:27 PM
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Pump will not shut off

I have a 30/50 switch. My system turns on at 30psi and will not shut off. It reaches 42psi and stays there.

I replaced the 30/50 switch and checked the water tank bladder pressure after the system was drained. All seems fine.

Why is my system staying on and not reaching 50psi and not turning off. It takes the system 10 minutes to get from 30 to 42psi.

Any ideas?

Kind Regards,
Matthew
 
  #2  
Old 01-03-05, 02:42 PM
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Hi Matthew,
- it sounds like either your impeller is warped/worn or you have a leak down the well side. Switch the pump off when it gets to 42 , close the valve to house and watch the gauge or come back to it in 15-20 min. If the gauge declines you have a leak.
Post back after checking
 
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Old 01-03-05, 02:50 PM
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Simply put, the pump can't move any more water than it is against the resistance to the flow of the water and thereby the pressure doesn't increase. So you have something wrong with the pump, something blocking the 'jet' in either a deep or shallow well jet pump or something blocking the inlet of either a jet or submersible pump.

So tell us more details of your system.

IMO switches rarely go bad. All a switch does is open or close a set of points based on whatever the pressure settings are. A switch 'reads' the pressure, it doesn't creat or cause pressure. The guage reads the pressure too. The pump simply moves water against resistance which creates "pressure".

Gary
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Last edited by Doug Aleshire; 03-11-05 at 04:38 PM.
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Old 01-03-05, 04:56 PM
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Pump Picture

Hey Guys,

I turned off the pump and closed the vavlve to the rest of the house. The pressure guage stayed at 40psi. I have a check valve in the system. Did it not move because of the check valve?

I took a picture of the system: www.vs-labs.com/pump

Please advise. Any other ideas?

Matt
 
  #5  
Old 01-03-05, 06:18 PM
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Hi Matthew,
your picture is good, and Yes the pressure is not dropping because of the check valve. post back and let us know if the pump is a sub. or single or double tube jet.
 
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Old 01-03-05, 06:21 PM
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Submersible Pump

Hey Guys,

The pump is submersible.

Kind Regards,
Matthew
 
  #7  
Old 01-03-05, 06:34 PM
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Hi Matthew,
this comes down to a couple of possibllities now, either the pumpend is worn, or there's a leak somewhere, (split in the pipe, broken fitting) not allowing pressure to build. It's going to have to be pulled. If you're prepared to do that yourself, post back and we'll get into how
 
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Old 01-03-05, 06:39 PM
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Pump Pull

Hey Guys,

I am aware of how to pull the pump.

Disconnect Power

I was told that I have to remove the cap, and inside I will find a rope and plastic tube.

I understand the I have to disconnect the plastic tube because this is what pumps the water in the house.

Then I have to pull the rope to bring the pump to the surface.

What do I look for? How do I test the pump itself? I dont know how old the components are...

Is this something that I should replace? Any advice would be appreciated.

Kind Regards,
Matthew
 
  #9  
Old 01-03-05, 07:03 PM
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Hi Matthew,
- This takes at least two guys. If your pump is on a Pitless connector then you need a T-bar. If you can see the pipe coming into the welltube between 2-6 ' down, then it's a Pitless. This is a special fitting bolted into the well tube with a slot on the inside. This slot holds a bronze block with the pipe hanging below, and has a 1" thread in top so you can screw a bar into it and lift it out. (this is the T-bar, about 5-6' of 1" steel threaded each end with a tee at top and two bars about 12-16 in the tee as handles)
Once the bar is threaded at least 5 turns into the pitless you can lift the pump and tube. Have one or two people lifting and one person on rope. If you need to stop it's simplest to hold the rope on the casing edge with your boot. If the pipe is flexible pumpdrop(black) it's easy. If it's pvc (white) be very careful to keep the tube from bending too sharply or it will snap above the joints. Once you get to the pump, lay it out and disconnect at the check valve (top of pump)usually at this time leaks in the tube will be apparent.
 
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Old 01-03-05, 07:15 PM
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Thumbs up Checking Pump

Is there a way to check to see if the pump is still strong? Can I measure resistance or something? I was told that it should come to pressure rather quickly. It takes approximately 10 minutes to go from 30psi to 42psi.

What is the average cost of a new pump? I think it is 3/4 hp.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

It is raining here in the north east. I will have to find some time on the weekend to do this. I will let you know how I make out.

thanks for all of your help.


Kind Regards,
MGM
 
  #11  
Old 01-03-05, 09:09 PM
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Hi Matthew,
- there's no way to tell other than seeing the result of the 'wet end' performance. The motor performance can be assessed very accurately with a clamp on ammeter, however, I'd bet the motor is not our problem here. These motors are extremely reliable and seldom act up, they just die.
Most likely the problem is a worn out wet end or a leak.

However in EITHER case, the pump still has to come up to fix it
I'd never advise anyone to pull a pump if there was an easier way to do it.
 
  #12  
Old 01-10-05, 06:05 PM
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Pump Fixed

Hey Guys,

I pulled the pum this weekend. I was able to do it. Thanks a bunch for the wonderful advise!
I have a picture of the piece with a hole in it. This fitting connects the pump to the hose. Check it out here: http://www.vs-labs.com/pump. The crack was about 1/2 wide x 1/8 high. You can also see that the brass fitting was worn to the bone as well. I talked to a guy at a pump distributor who suggested that I replace all of the white fittings with gray nylon fittings.
The pump was fine!
The pressure comes up real quick and stays there.
I thank you again for your professional advise. I saved a few $$$ I am sure.
The whole system is back to normal thanks you all.

Regards,
MGM
 

Last edited by mmcclosky; 01-10-05 at 06:05 PM. Reason: Spelling
  #13  
Old 01-10-05, 09:56 PM
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This is a great example and definate proof of why a check valve at the pressure tank is a bad idea IMO; you can't 'see' evidence of a leak back to the well. So anyone with a problem in the well shouldn't install a check valve at the pressure tank to 'fix' it. That's a very bad idea.

I don't agree with the guy suggesting Nylon fittings, I've seen them break and all but drop submersible pumps off the drop pipe. I would have gone with SS. Which reminds me to ask what the additional power cord in the pressure switch is for? My guess is a solution feeder... the erosion/corosion on the brass fitting looks severe from here.

Gary
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Last edited by Doug Aleshire; 03-11-05 at 04:38 PM.
  #14  
Old 01-10-05, 10:52 PM
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Hi Matthew,
- Well I'm glad to see that it was a simple leak down the well as I suggested in my first post.
That fitting looks pretty corroded, I'm surprised that you couldn't hear it squirting out at the wellhead. As Gary said, definitely DO NOT put on nylon or plastic fittings donn the well they are unreliable, stainless is way better.
A job well done Matthew, congratulations.

Do it Right - Do it once.
 
 

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