Low water pressure on a well
#1
Low water pressure on a well
About a month ago, we noticed that our water pressure has dropped dramatically - about 1/2 of what it was. I went under the house and found the pressure tank and the pressure switch. The pressure on the tank is only 18 psi and drops to between 0 and 10 if the water is turned on (de[ending on how open the outside faucet is).
When I turned the water on, the pressure dropped but the pressure switch never clicked and the pressure never changed. I had the low pressure cut in screw loosened to the point that there was no pressure on the screw at all - it was loose on the bolt and it still never cut in. There is no clicking from the pressure controller at all.....
Also, took a bike pump and tried adding air. Pumped continuously for a while, but was not able to get the pressure to go up at all. Sometimes it appeared the needle was fluttering when I was pumping, but not all the time. I did get pressurized air out when I pushed the valve in - no water, but it is on the top of the tank, so not sure I would get water even if it was full.
Based on a suggestion from a plumbing supply company locally, he said to check how heavy the tank was to see if it was full of water. I can move the tank easily - it's not heavy at all. He said if it was extremely heavy the likely problem was that the bladder in the tank had ruptured and it had filled with water. This does not seem to be the case.
Pressure switch failure? Even though we still have water? If so, should I attempt to replace myself or should I have a plumber do it?
Thanks
Sigrid
When I turned the water on, the pressure dropped but the pressure switch never clicked and the pressure never changed. I had the low pressure cut in screw loosened to the point that there was no pressure on the screw at all - it was loose on the bolt and it still never cut in. There is no clicking from the pressure controller at all.....
Also, took a bike pump and tried adding air. Pumped continuously for a while, but was not able to get the pressure to go up at all. Sometimes it appeared the needle was fluttering when I was pumping, but not all the time. I did get pressurized air out when I pushed the valve in - no water, but it is on the top of the tank, so not sure I would get water even if it was full.
Based on a suggestion from a plumbing supply company locally, he said to check how heavy the tank was to see if it was full of water. I can move the tank easily - it's not heavy at all. He said if it was extremely heavy the likely problem was that the bladder in the tank had ruptured and it had filled with water. This does not seem to be the case.
Pressure switch failure? Even though we still have water? If so, should I attempt to replace myself or should I have a plumber do it?
Thanks
Sigrid
#2
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Location: Chester, IL
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Dailing the pressure down on the switch, and it not switching on, isn't an indication of switch failure. The air in the tank kept enough pressure(18PSI) on the switch for it not to cut on. First, drain the water from the tank, then attempt to add air as you were before(unless you drained the tank the first time too), then (hopefully) air will go in, up to about 28PSI, then dial the switch back up until the pump comes on, let it fill until it stops on it's own(cut-off pressure), note the gauge reading, which is hopefully around 50 or 60PSI. Then run water until the pump comes on again, adjusting the screw as necessary to get the cut-on pressure set to 30PSI. Post back and let us know what happens, or about any further problems.