pressure tank
#1
02-04-05, 09:16 AM
pressure tank
How do you install a pressure tank?
Also, If the line to the pressure tank freezes, would you be able to push the contacts together on the pressure switch, and have the pump run non-stop untill you manually pull the contacts apart?
Also, If the line to the pressure tank freezes, would you be able to push the contacts together on the pressure switch, and have the pump run non-stop untill you manually pull the contacts apart?
#2
02-04-05, 01:40 PM
Group Moderator
Not sure what kind of setup you had in mind, but my pressure tank is connected to a "T" just downstream from the pump. The sensor line for the pressure switch runs from the pressure side of the pump to the pressure switch. To answer the switch question, if you manually close the contacts the pump will run until you let go; they will not stay closed. And as a safety note, that's 110 volts running through those contacts and it will kill you if you're not careful.
Here's a link:
http://low-water-pressure.com/Booster_Diagram.html courtesy of one of the ads here on DIY.
Here's a link:
http://low-water-pressure.com/Booster_Diagram.html courtesy of one of the ads here on DIY.
#3
02-05-05, 04:32 PM
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Hi Waterheadache,
- As our friend Tow guy says, it's easier to tell you how to install if we have a picture of what you have now. Generally, installing a tank is not difficult if you have basic mechanical/plumbing skills.
In a nutshell, cut the power at breaker, drain the tank, take out at the easiest point (usually at tank T ) then replace in the opposite order.
The pressure switch is a little more complicated, and if you do hold the points on with a frozen line, you may well end up with a broken pipe or fitting. Pumps can easily gain enough pressure to do this in seconds. Please be careful.
Is it possible that you may have other problems and don't need a tank ?
Post back and let us know the nature of the problem.
Do it Right -Do it once.
- As our friend Tow guy says, it's easier to tell you how to install if we have a picture of what you have now. Generally, installing a tank is not difficult if you have basic mechanical/plumbing skills.
In a nutshell, cut the power at breaker, drain the tank, take out at the easiest point (usually at tank T ) then replace in the opposite order.
The pressure switch is a little more complicated, and if you do hold the points on with a frozen line, you may well end up with a broken pipe or fitting. Pumps can easily gain enough pressure to do this in seconds. Please be careful.
Is it possible that you may have other problems and don't need a tank ?
Post back and let us know the nature of the problem.
Do it Right -Do it once.
#4
02-06-05, 05:55 AM
I'll try to explain it better.
I have a submersible pump. The main line comes in and has a T, which the branch goes to the pressure tank, then a little further down the straight line is the pressure switch, then into the house.
The problem i'm having is the new pressure tank is not filling with water, even thing seems to work fine (as long as we don't keep getting -30 degree weather), you can use a bit of water before the pump turns on. but the pressure tank always feels empty.
Hopefully I gave somebody a better idea to what i'm talking about.
Thanks
I have a submersible pump. The main line comes in and has a T, which the branch goes to the pressure tank, then a little further down the straight line is the pressure switch, then into the house.
The problem i'm having is the new pressure tank is not filling with water, even thing seems to work fine (as long as we don't keep getting -30 degree weather), you can use a bit of water before the pump turns on. but the pressure tank always feels empty.
Hopefully I gave somebody a better idea to what i'm talking about.
Thanks
#5
02-06-05, 12:59 PM
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Location: langley, in sunny fraser valley, bc , near vancouver
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Hi waterheadache,
- Have you equalised the pressure in the new tank to your pressure settings ?
To do this check pressure at which the switch clicks 'on', then make air in tank 2psi less than that. New tanks generally come with 45psi pre-charge and it is necessary to lower this in most cases.
( This has been explained numerous times in this forum )
Also, 'down the pipe' is NOT a good place for the pressure switch. It should be on the tank tee. I would suggest unwiring this existing switch and fitting a new one on the tank tee. I ALWAYS fit a new P/S and gauge when replacing a tank, - it pays off.
Do it Right - Do it once.
- Have you equalised the pressure in the new tank to your pressure settings ?
To do this check pressure at which the switch clicks 'on', then make air in tank 2psi less than that. New tanks generally come with 45psi pre-charge and it is necessary to lower this in most cases.
( This has been explained numerous times in this forum )
Also, 'down the pipe' is NOT a good place for the pressure switch. It should be on the tank tee. I would suggest unwiring this existing switch and fitting a new one on the tank tee. I ALWAYS fit a new P/S and gauge when replacing a tank, - it pays off.
Do it Right - Do it once.
