I live in an area with a high ground water level so I have a lot of water continually draining into my sump and this has my pump cycling pretty frequently. It's every 5 min during dry periods (no rain for a couple days or more). During light rains, it cycles every 15 sec or so. During heavy rains, it runs continuously (think: > 2000 gph! yes, that's 2000, not a typo...). I'm trying to think of a way to lengthen the cycle time during dry and light rain periods so I don't kill pumps (I don't think I can do much about the heavy rains... ;-( My pump is sitting at the bottom of my sump and when it turns off there is approx 2" of water remaining. The turn on point is approx 3" above that. The turn on point is approx 1" below the bottom lip of the 4" dia. tube in the side of the sump. I just ran a test where I unplugged the pump and watched the level rise. It just rained today so the level rose quickly up to the bottom edge of the tube (3" in 15 sec). After that it took much longer to reach the top of the tube (4" in 5 min). I presume this is because the water is now filling the volume of the sump AND drain tile tubing around the foundation (i.e. constant flow rate filling larger volume = slower level rise). So if I simply move the level switch up to the point where the level is rising more slowly, I can reduce my cycle time (to do this I must move the entire pump up since it is all one unit). My question is this: is allowing the drain system under the foundation to fill with water (because I've moved my pump's "turn-on point" at or above the top of the sump inlet tube) going to have any detrimental effect (i.e. will this create enough hydrostatic pressure to cause cracking of the slab, etc...)?

I have a small whole house water filter (cartridge type) and I installed it in the incoming well water line BEFORE the air pressure tank. A friend said it should be installed past the air pressure tank...what can you tell me ?