Hello folks, FNG here,my question is in regard to water pressure problems. First let me tell you what I have. Its a waterwell,220ft deep/ w/50ft "head"(water level is 50' from surface). 1hp motor,42 ga tank/non diaphram,30-50 pressure switch. After attempting to fill a 2200gal. "wally-mart" swimming pool,not all at once but over the course of a week. I have run into water pressure problems. I believe that the tank has become "water bound", filled with water completely,as evidenced by it sweating ALL the way to the top??? I have drained it completely(no water in tank) and restarted the pump,but it still continues to get filled up completely with water over a period of time. My brother "the engineer" said I may have to PRE-pressurize the tank up to or just below the cut-in pressure? What my question is, is there a proper procedure for setting this thing up right and where in the heck is ALL that air from the "air cushion" going? Also in screwing around with the switch adjustments they may now be out of calibration(not 30-50) the gauge on the tank does not work due to the fact the port it theads into is rusted closed,I have tried to clean it but due to its installed location it is extremely difficult to access. I'm told that it should be adjusted so the pump takes a minimum of 2 minutes to recover, the theory being that water flow through the pump will be ample to cool the motor??? How hot can it get 175feet below water??l

 

I've never seen a tank without a diaphram used with a submersible pump. If there is some kind of air volume control (usually a disc looking piece about 4" in diameter), I suggest you replace it or install a diaphram type tank along with a new pressure gauge.

The purpose of the 1-2 minute run time is to prevent short cycling. Starting is the hardest thing on any motor, electric or combustion.

 

>I've never seen a tank without a diaphram used with a submersible pump.<

What do you think people used before there were diaphragms and bladders in the tanks? Sears still sells tanks without diaphragms or bladders. You can see them online at sears.com.

 

First, you need to replace the gauge. Every hardware store sells them for less than $10. Next you need to either adjust or replace the pressure switch.

If you have any doubts about the pressure switch, or know it is old, then replace it. They cost about $15 at most hardware stores. Don't forget to replace the tube that goes from the tank to the switch. It's not worh fiddling with an old switch if it is old since new ones are so inexpensive and easy to change.

Check the "schrader valve" which is the valve that is like a tire valve. Once again, peanut money to replace if it is old. Maybe $2.

Once you are sure that things are the way they are supposed to be, then you need to get the extra water out of the tank.

1. IF (and this is a big if) you are SURE that you don't have a diaphragm or bladder in the tank (usually a large thick-walled galvanized tank) , then you drain all the water out of the tank. Make sure it is completely empty by draining it at the bottom if there is a bibcock there. Then seal it back up, turn the pump back on and you are done.

2. IF you have a bladder or a diaphragm tank, usually thin-walled and painted blue, then you drain the tank and add or release air until the pressure is set to two pounds below the turn-on pressure of the switch. If the switch is 30/50, then set it for 28 pounds.

If you have a diaphragm or bladder tank and it is filling all the way up, so that water comes out of the schrader valve, then the innards are shot and you need a new tank. Water should not mix with the air in a bladder or diaphragm tank.

Search in here for more info.

 

Quite true BUT with no air volume control valve, that tank will soon become "waterlogged" do to the dissolution of the air into the water & require frequent re-charging with air.

 

APC doesn't stop the water and air mixing, it's supposed to adjust the amount of air automatically.

The Air Pressure Control is often busted anyway. Even when they are new, they are notoriously unreliable and people often remove them.

The best way is wait until the tank is water logged and then fix it. Usually once a year or so. Not a big deal.

 

Most of the air volume controls I've ever seen would still allow the tank to waterlog over a period of time. I wouldn't wait until the tank is waterlogged to fix it, either. Submersible pumps, especially, will rapid cycle long before it's ever noticed. Just unnecessary wear and tear. Routine maintenance is called for, just like any other mechanical thing.
I would recommend that anyone who uses a galvanized steel tank should replenish the air pad every couple of months, or so. It's usually pretty easy to do. I relieve the system pressure and remove one of the pipe plugs (there is almost always an unused port on a galv. tank). This will allow air to enter the tank (many people will drain the tank down, but it doesn't do any good if you don't allow air to enter the tank). Replace the plug and off you go. Use a good thread dope on the plug and this will facilitate removal the next time.
Retinose - If you remove the gauge, the rust isn't usually too thick. Push a piece of wire or a small rod through the rust to open the port. Replace the gauge. Once in a while go out and watch the gauge as the pump is cycling. It will tell you what's going on with the system.
Ron