Pressure tank doesn't drop pressure now?

Reply

  #1  
Old 12-07-07, 07:35 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 66
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
Pressure tank doesn't drop pressure now?

My pressure tank gauge used to stay at 50 and then would drop slowly to around 25 when water was being used. I noticed yesterday that it seemed like as soon as I turned on the water the pressure tank comes on and it doesn't drop pressure at all? Just now when I checked it dropped to 25 immediately for a split second and then right back up to 50 the whole time water was on? I've read around in the forums some trying to figure it out and the only thing that comes up is that my tank may be waterlogged? Any ideas would be great- Thanks
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 12-07-07, 12:23 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: welland ontario
Posts: 6,694
Received 75 Votes on 69 Posts
You are correct. Sounds like a water logged tank.
 
  #3  
Old 12-07-07, 04:07 PM
Unclediezel's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northeastern PA.
Posts: 2,230
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Tell-tale symptoms...

Does your well pump cycle on/off rapidly, while using water?

On top of your pressure tank there is a small "TIRE VALVE". momentarily press it and see if water comes thru.

If not , check the air pressure in the tank. it should be 2 psi below your turn -on pressure....
 
  #4  
Old 12-08-07, 06:23 AM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 32
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Just to clarify what Unclediezel said:

If water comes out of the air valve, your bladder tank has a bladder leak. (it is shot. fried. broken. needs to be replaced.)

Unclediezel said:
“check the air pressure in the tank. it should be 2 psi below your turn -on pressure”

You do this with the pump off, and all “house side”, water pressure relieved. (drained with 0 house side pressure.)
Check the air chamber air pressure with an automobile tire air pressure gauge)
 
  #5  
Old 12-08-07, 11:52 AM
Unclediezel's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northeastern PA.
Posts: 2,230
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Jymmi View Post
Just to clarify what Unclediezel said:

Unclediezel said:
“check the air pressure in the tank. it should be 2 psi below your turn -on pressure”

You do this with the pump off, and all “house side”, water pressure relieved. (drained with 0 house side pressure.)
Check the air chamber air pressure with an automobile tire air pressure gauge)
OOOOPS!!!1

Absolutely correct Jymmi.
It seems a procedure so simple is often the most common overlooked. Ive explained this on other threads, and just took for granted that POWER-DOWN" and "DRAIN-OUT" were a Given.
It took me almost six months to evict the "GREMLINS" that lived in my water system,Most of which resided in the AIR/WATER combinations, and after seeing the havoc that was wreaked, I should be more "EXPLICIT" at the advice I give.....

ALSO SEE HERE...http://forum.doityourself.com/showpo...79&postcount=7
 
  #6  
Old 12-11-07, 08:42 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 66
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
Well I did what I was supposed to do to get it so it wasn't water logged and the pump pressure switch works fine for about a hour or so and then it goes back to coming on every time I turn on the water? Could my switch be bad? Is there a good way to test it to see? Or is my 3 year old pressure tank bad- the pressure is where it's supposed to be and there was no water that came out of the nozzle? Any ideas would be great- THanks
 
  #7  
Old 12-11-07, 06:59 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 66
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
I took some videos of my pressure switch. The first video is with no water being turned. At around 36 seconds it kicks on to 50psi then the at 49 seconds it drops to around 45 psi and jumps around.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnSwvS68mCw

The next video is with me turning on the water a few times and you can see that it just drops all the way to 30 and right back to 50.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jrZa44BEeQ

I hope this can help show you something-
 
  #8  
Old 12-11-07, 07:38 PM
Unclediezel's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northeastern PA.
Posts: 2,230
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Does that look like a bad "Check valve" to anyone else????

The water is leaking back past the check, returning to the well, emptying the tank and requesting more. It works while running because the pump is supplying the water, Instead of using what is stored in the tank.
 
  #9  
Old 12-12-07, 10:10 AM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: welland ontario
Posts: 6,694
Received 75 Votes on 69 Posts
I can't see the video it is blocked by work. But if there is no water being used and the pressure is dropping with the pump off then it could be a bad check valve or a leak in the suction pipe below the water line.
 
  #10  
Old 12-13-07, 08:02 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 66
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
This may be a stupid question but where is the check valve usually located? Thanks so much
 
  #11  
Old 12-13-07, 03:27 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: West Central Indiana
Posts: 149
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I belive the check valve is built in some pumps, or its inline right after the pump. So its way down in the ground.
 
  #12  
Old 12-13-07, 04:44 PM
Unclediezel's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northeastern PA.
Posts: 2,230
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
One more possibility is right at the inlet to the pressure tank. I cant see from the angle of the video if its there or not, but definitely worth looking into, as it may save you from pulling the pump.
 
  #13  
Old 12-14-07, 09:48 PM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 32
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Swap out that pressure gauge, it’s a cheep part to replace and easy to do-it-yourself.

You’ll need a small spool of Teflon tape and a small adjustable wrench.
Turn off the electric power to the pump, relieve the water pressure at a lower tap, wrap the brass threads of the new gauge with some Teflon tape, remove the old valve, install the new valve ¼ turn past hand tight.

I’ve never seen a gauge fluctuate so much, so fast.
It does appear that you also have a bad check valve seal.

On a shallow well convertible jet pump, with the jet mounted to the pump, the check valve is above grade. Normally on the horizontal pipe connected to the pump.
On a deep well jet pump, the check valve is at the bottom of the drop pipe that is inside the well casing. You will need to pull the drop pipe w/jet pack.
In either case you need to disassemble the check valve, clean all the parts and replace the seal.
Cheep parts/seal, lots of labor.

For a submersible pump I believe Civicminded had it right. The check valve is built into the submersible pump.

Give us more info on your well system. (type of pump, well depth, etc.)
 
  #14  
Old 12-14-07, 10:20 PM
Unclediezel's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northeastern PA.
Posts: 2,230
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
What about something like this...
 
  #15  
Old 12-14-07, 11:35 PM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 32
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yep; but we still need to know what type of pump/system he has.

(that type of check valve has a simple .25 cent O-ring inside it. No need to replace the whole thing. There’s a world-wide copper/brass shortage don’t ya know.)
 
  #16  
Old 12-15-07, 07:56 AM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 64
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
If your check valve was bad, the pressure would drop but it doesn't explain why it builds pressure so quick, unless your tank is bad. I would let it sit for a while to see if it eventualy stops cycling. It looks like the inlet of your tank could be clogged. If the inlet is clogged the pressure will build up where its clogged,the pump will shut off, and then slowly the tank will take water until the cut on pressure is reached. The pump will turn on again and cycle back and forth until the tank is full.

Hydro
 
  #17  
Old 12-15-07, 08:07 AM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 64
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I just looked at the 2nd video. That gauge bouncing back and forth like that is a classic indication of a clogged inlet or fitting going into the tank. If the tank had a clear path for water, the pressure on your gauge would remain steady and not bounce back and forth. A bad check valve is not your issue.
Do you have any galvanized fittings in front of the tank?

Hydro
 
  #18  
Old 12-18-07, 03:05 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 66
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
Thanks for everyones help. I finally had a well pro come over and check it out. It ended up being a water logged tank after all. He said that it would work for a while then once it filled back up with water it would mess up again (usually after 15 minutes). It was under warranty still so I just had to pay for installation. Thanks everyone for your time and help.- Mike
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: