Just replaced the well pump, all connections are good, Pump primed ok and pumps out at 50PSI, just like the instructions said it would...

Old pump had been running almost continuously and dying on a frequent basis, mostly from the pressure switch 'twitching' for 10-15 minutes at a time and the pump would just shut down, and I had assumed (as it was quite old) it was just time to replace the pump and pressure switch...

However, now the new pump is running continuously... Getting good pressure both at the pump and in the house, and the gauge on the pump reads around 50PSI, but it's supposed to pull pressure up to around 50 and shut off, and turn back on at 30, right now it's running all the time...

The Pressure Tank is quite old as well, the rest of the system is relatively new, could this be a problem with the pressure tank? How can I diagnose what the issue is so I can fix it?

It seems like it gets pressure to 50 but doesn't ever cut off... Could the pressure switch supposedly factory set at 30/50 need adjusting, and if so how do I do that?

Any and all help greatly appreciated!

 

Its sounds like time to "INITIALIZE" your tank and switch.


The twitching you describe is caused by a waterlogged tank, or lack of air pressure .

First, On top of your tank is a small tire valve.. depress it...If any water spits out..its time to replace the tank...(This isnt "Fool" proof, but will get you pointed in the right direction)

Next , shut off power to the well pump, (and switch If by chance theyre different, But not Usually).

Open every faucet in the house, until NO water pressure is left...Gauge MUST READ ZERO..
Using a Plain Vanilla Tire gauge, Check and record the pressure in the tank..

Air pressure should be 2 to 3 PSI BELOW turn -on point.(On at 30, off at 50, would indicate a 30/50 switch, so therfore the pressure would be 28 psi...) Your margin of error is best kept on the below side....Rather 4 below than 1 above.

After the air pressure is corrected, restore power and the pump should run. Shut off all the faucets that you opened previously and allow the pressure to reach cut off point. Run the bathtub and ensure cut in points. Due to the variations in configuration, check the procedures for "TUNING" your switch by visiting the MFR 's website.Also, due to inaccuracies between the tire gauge and the mechanical gauge on your tank..You may need to work with it a bit to get it right.

Just a side note...A pump that Maxes out at 50 pounds? On a 30/50....? This doesnt sound right to me...PROS.????

 

Most pressure switches have two adjustment nuts that lie below the cover. The top one typically adjusts the pressure shutoff and the lower adjusts the differential. If you turn the upper nut counter-clockwise it should lower the pressure setting below 50 psi and the pump should shut off.

I would recommend that you shut the pump off, back the nut off one turn. Turn it on again and see if the switch has shut off. You may be able to hear it click as you are backing it off.

If it shuts off run the water and watch where it comes on. If you cannot get it to shut off you may have a defective switch.

Jim

 

we need more info. was the pump replaced with an exact match, or is it different? what is the horsepower and volume of new pump? what is the static water level in the well? if a larger volume pump or lower horsepower pump were installed, it may very well be out of its curve. if you can post answer all those questions, i will look at a curve chart and can tell you exactly how that pump should perform. another possibility is that there is a leak somewhere. it is unlikely but possible. typically, if you have a leak that affects pressure, it will not build anywhere near 50 psi. even if the tank were waterlogged, which it sounds like it is, it should build to 50 psi and shut off. since this happened when a new pump was installed, i would lean towards the pump being sized wrong. let us know the pump and well info, and i'll get back to you. the brand of the pump would also be helpful, but not entirely necessary. a model no. would be good if you have it, but again, not necessary.

 

Ok, let me see if I can answer the questions:

The old pump was doing this behavior somewhat though the 'chatter' of the pressure switch would regularly kill the pump, it was a 1/2 HP and was replaced by a 3/4 HP Simer pump Model 3307P Convertible/Deep well jet pump, I had been recommended to go a little higher so the pump would not work as hard though now it's working all the time.

I do not know the static water level in the well and honestly would not know how to tell what it is, unless there's an easy way to do it...

As far as the new pump, it's rated to go higher than the 50, but it gets up to about 53 and sits there, running, maintaining that PSI, running continuously...

The pressure tank has NO air valve that I could see, anywhere on it's body, it only has about a 1-1/2 to 2" allen keyed plug on the top and side, and the inlet and outlets on the bottom, nothing else...

There are no leaks as far as I have found, so no reason for the water to be running, I have not tried adjusting the pressure switch yet as I was unsure what to 'tamper' with, though now I have an idea of which nut to try adjusting I will be looking at doing that now...

If it is the Pressure tank, is there any way to easily test and validate before I run out and spend the money? I know I could get someone in to check it, but do not have a lot of money and in my area plumbers come at a premium...

Help?

 

Quick update, tried adjusting the pressure switch down and it did stop, I watched the pressure drop to 30 and the pump kicked on as it should, pushed it up to 50 and.........

Occasionally it seems to shut off, sometimes it does not...

Right now it's running continuously again, though sometimes it stops and sits there as it should...


But, the pressure dropped WITHOUT any water use...

Pump pushed it to 50, stopped, and that needle just crept back down to 30...

Bad pressure tank? Or need to look further for a leak?

Any help would be greatly appreciated...

 

I would look further for a leak. Check on the house side by turning off a valve at the tank and seeing if the pressure drops. It should be pretty easy to isolate a leak above ground.

If not look between the valve and the pump. If the tank were leaking I assume you could see that. Otherwise it could be in the line between the pump and tank. If it were a leak in the line it would rob some of the pump capacity and would explain why it had a hard time building pressure and why it drops back and starts again.

If it just leaks back after it shuts off it could also be the check valve. Submersible and jet pumps have a check valve that keeps water from flowing back in the well. Sometimes these get junk in them and will leak. Sometimes they just wear out. When the pump is running however, the check valve opens and is not a problem.

If the pump takes some time to drop down it shows that your tank has a good amount of air in it as a cushion. If it snaps on and off there is inadequate air in a condition called water logging. This would be on-off-on-off-on-off in immediate succession. This is very hard on motors and can lead to motor failure.

Jim