leakage into septic tank

I am having what I believe to be ground water leakage into my septic tank, I believe that it is filling my septic tank and in turn filling my drainfield, I am having water backup in my sinks and bathtub. I can flush my toilet once then have to wait for a good while before trying to flush again. Does anyone have any ideas on what I can do to fix this ongoing problem I have???? Please please, I will take any and all suggestions, I need help fast!!! thanx

 

Where do you live?

In winter areas, Snow-Melt leaves a tremendous amount of water in the earth. If this water infiltrates your septic system, it is pumped out to your Drainfield, and "BACK INTO THE EARTH" where it infiltrates into your system again, likely faster than you are pumping it out.

The leakage of groundwater into your system could be as severe as a crack in the tank, or as simple as a lid that isnt on straight. The only way to know, is to SEE where it leaks in, and rectify the leak. At the moment , you may very well be stuck riding it out, But it must be repaired.Aside from the backing up problems, you can damage the "ECO-SYSTEM", or worse, float the Nondegradables out to your field.

 

Every septic tank walls I have ever seen was made from solid or block concrete. Back in the 50's they made some that didn't have bottoms, but they are pretty rare. I rather doubt that ground water is filling your tank. I mean it is possible, but not likely.

Since it is "spring"-ish, and snow is melting, the soil could be saturated with water rendering your drainfield ineffective.

In any case, call a local septic tank company out for a pumpout and an inspection. It will cost around $100-150. Realize that they are usually bound by license to report what they see to the local government in charge of septic tanks. You should ask them what they think is wrong. They are more familiar with your local soils and weather than we are.

 

Yes, Ive seen the "Bottomless tanks".Most of them are probably gone by now, so we can rule that out.

I was more referring to ...an inlet or outlet pipe that isnt sealed to the concrete, allowing the groundwater in. When my sytem was installed, back in the late seventies, the pipes were never sealed to the sides of the tank, and the water just poured in around the pipe thru the hole in the tank. The worst of the meltdown days, My 3/4 horse pump would not keep up. When the snow was gone...so was the problem...until next year.

 

Even in the bottomless tanks, I thought the pipes were sealed in and out. Usually with mortar on the outside of the tank around the pipe. I never saw the water level rise high enough to test those seals though.

 

Ive lived here for 2 years. The last year was the unsealed inlet pipes. "Hydrocrete" when the ground stopped pouring, and all was well.....This year, The water pours in between the tank and riser....

 

Boy. Around here, the local government would be out there demanding that you replace the system with an above ground system. They let it go one year, but the next time, that's it. Usually, the neighbors complain.

 

Its pretty much a given, that we all have a problem with "Water runoff". A two or three week period around this time of year, all the sump pumps run nonstop, and the pump trucks are stationed at the entrance to the community.

Surprisingly enough, It doesnt puddle up anywhere, and it doesnt smell like sewage. It's just "Way Too Much" groundwater. My "Grey Tank" is Crystal clear until the thaw is finished.

Smiley.... As Vey said, a pumpout and inspection is a good deal right now, But please realize it will not solve your problem , but rather give you a direction to head in. Also realize that this is a result of Mother Nature, and you cant "Get rid of it" if there is no place to put it.

Side note....Just thinking, ...Why dont underground tanks Float up out of the ground in these situations?????

 

Good question . . . Why no pop ups? There used to be pop ups when I was a kid. Let's look on the 'net . . .

HEY!!!!

This page says to DO NOT PUMP out the tank until the water does down. Else it could pop out of the ground.

Septic Systems - What to Do after the Flood

http://www.epa.gov/safewater/faq/emergency_septic.html

Do I pump my tank during flooded or saturated drainfield conditions?
No! At best, pumping the tank is only a temporary solution. Under worst conditions, pumping it out could cause the tank to try to float out of the ground and may damage the inlet and outlet pipes. The best solution is to plug all drains in the basement and drastically reduce water use in the house.

What do I do with my septic system after the flood?
Once floodwaters have receded, there are several things homeowners should remember:

* Do not drink well water until it is tested. Contact your local health department.
* Do not use the sewage system until water in the soil absorption field is lower than the water level around the house.
* Have your septic tank professionally inspected and serviced if you suspect damage. Signs of damage include settling or an inability to accept water. Most septic tanks are not damaged by flooding since they are below ground and completely covered. However, septic tanks and pump chambers can fill with silt and debris, and must be professionally cleaned. If the soil absorption field is clogged with silt, a new system may have to be installed.
* Only trained specialists should clean or repair septic tanks because tanks may contain dangerous gases. Contact your health department for a list of septic system contractors who work in your area.
* If sewage has backed up into the basement, clean the area and disinfect the floor. Use a chlorine solution of a half cup of chlorine bleach to each gallon of water to disinfect the area thoroughly.
* Pump the septic system as soon as possible after the flood. Be sure to pump both the tank and lift station. This will remove silt and debris that may have washed into the system. Do not pump the tank during flooded or saturated drainfield conditions. At best, pumping the tank is only a temporary solution. Under worst conditions, pumping it out could cause the tank to try to float out of the ground and may damage the inlet and outlet pipes.
* Do not compact the soil over the soil absorption field by driving or operating equipment in the area. Saturated soil is especially susceptible to compaction, which can reduce the soil absorption field's ability to treat wastewater and lead to system failure.
* Examine all electrical connections for damage before restoring electricity.
* Be sure the septic tank's manhole cover is secure and that inspection ports have not been blocked or damaged.
* Check the vegetation over your septic tank and soil absorption field. Repair erosion damage and sod or reseed areas as necessary to provide turf grass cover.

Remember: Whenever the water table is high or your sewage system is threatened by flooding there is a risk that sewage will back up into your home. The only way to prevent this backup is to relieve pressure on the system by using it less.

1. What are some suggestions offered by experts for homeowners with flooded septic systems?
2. Use common sense. If possible, don't use the system if the soil is saturated and flooded. The wastewater will not be treated and will become a source of pollution. Conserve water as much as possible while the system restores itself and the water table fails.
3. Prevent silt from entering septic systems that have pump chambers. When the pump chambers are flooded, silt has a tendency to settle in the chambers and will clog the drainfield if it is not removed.
4. Do not open the septic tank for pumping while the soil is still saturated. Mud and silt may enter the tank and end up in the drainfield. Furthermore, pumping out a tank that is in saturated soil may cause it to "pop out" of the ground. (Likewise, recently installed systems may "pop out" of the ground more readily than older systems because the soil has not had enough time to settle and compact.)
5. Do not dig into the tank or drainfield area while the soil is still wet or flooded. Try to avoid any work on or around the disposal field with heavy machinery while the soil is still wet. These activities will ruin the soil conductivity.
6. Flooding of the septic tank will have lifted the floating crust of fats and grease in the septic tank. Some of this scum may have floated and/or partially plugged the outlet tee. If the septic system backs up into the house check the tank first for outlet blockage. Clean up any floodwater in the house without dumping it into the sink or toilet and allow enough time for the water to recede. Floodwaters from the house that are passed through or pumped through the septic tank will cause higher flows through the system. This may cause solids to transfer from the septic tank to the drainfield and will cause clogging.
7. Locate any electrical or mechanical devices the system may have that could be flooded to avoid contact with them until they are dry and clean.
8. Aerobic plants, upflow filters, trickling filters, and other media filters have a tendency to clog due to mud and sediment. These systems will need to be washed and raked.

 

Thanks Vey, That was cool....

Frightening...but cool......

Ive seen too many people that think pumping is a cure-all for septic systems...And just as many pumping companies waiting to take their money with no regard for the consequences you posted....

Thank You..

 

repeat post please delete.