shadetreeall
#1
shadetreeall
I have a deep well. 140ft sumppump and it works off and on. no same variance of when it works . or doesn't work . tested all the elec. system and have 110v at all the right places. had a pump company test and the only thing they found was 1 amp draw difference in the black wire and yellow wire to the pump. the pump has 220v supply like it should . its a 3hp. some times works after 4hrs and some times after 12hrs or after 2 days no set time . pump guy wants to install a ney system . but did not sound to positive that the pump was bad. this is the second pump company to look at it the first said every thing was good as far as he can tell . need advice does any one no whats wrong.

#2
let me see if i am understanding you correctly, you have a 140 ft deep well with a submirsible pump that is 3 horsepower.
is the pump a 2 wire pump or a 3 wire pump, what is the voltage to each wire on the pump? have you checked the switch on your pressure tank? what had 110volts, your pressure switch or each leg of the pump?
if we're not supposed to eat animals why are they made out of meat?
is the pump a 2 wire pump or a 3 wire pump, what is the voltage to each wire on the pump? have you checked the switch on your pressure tank? what had 110volts, your pressure switch or each leg of the pump?
if we're not supposed to eat animals why are they made out of meat?
#3

speed wrench i have 110v io each wier blk and yellow green is nuteral and white is ground . replaced start moter and pressure switch, and it still just quits pumping h2o and i can not hear motor runing in 6 inch pipe. my guess is that i need a pump motor but the restaince is good on all wires . but im not shure that is the problem . im waiting on a third pump guy to come look and see what he says but the last two got me thinking it may not be the motor . thanks ROD
#5
okay sounds like maybe you have a bad thermal limit switch in your pump motor, because if you have power to each lead and good ground and neutral, the only other thing it could be is motor or thermal switch, motor checks good so that leaves thermal switch, does the well draw down when you use it? sometimes that can cause heating problems, the problem is once a thermal switch trips a few times they can become too sensitive. unfortunately most are sealed and can't be replaced.
are you going to cowboy up or just lay there and bleed?
are you going to cowboy up or just lay there and bleed?
#6
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: rogersville mo
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the largest 2 wire motor made is 1 1/2 hp, so if you have a 3 hp pump it has to be a 3 wire single phase motor, unless you have 3 phase power available-very unlikely. that means there has to be a control box somewhere. if it is very old, it will have this thermal overload that speedwrench speaks of. the newer ones have to be reset manually, but the older ones were automatic, and didn't last long for reasons already stated. the motor will not have this overload in it, just the control box.
i would be more inclined to think that you have a bare spot rubbed in the wire above the water in the well. that will cause sporattic spike in amp draw, tripping this overload. it is also hard to detect when you ohm a motor above ground. a megger is going to have to be used to find insulation resistance in the wire.
i would be more inclined to think that you have a bare spot rubbed in the wire above the water in the well. that will cause sporattic spike in amp draw, tripping this overload. it is also hard to detect when you ohm a motor above ground. a megger is going to have to be used to find insulation resistance in the wire.
#7
thanks for comeing in wwg, most of the systems i deal with don't have pumps permantly installed, because they are for ground water monitoring and we bring our own pumps. both of my 1 horse grundfos pumps have the thermal limit switches in the pump. I can't remember on my 1 1/2 horse pump.
life begins when the kids leave home and the dog dies
life begins when the kids leave home and the dog dies