Install 10 HP Submersible Pump in Water Storage Tank Used for Irrigation Water


  #1  
Old 03-12-09, 08:41 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Install 10 HP Submersible Pump in Water Storage Tank Used for Irrigation Water

I need some advice in regards to installing a 10 HP submersible pump ( Model 6P080A10 ) inside of a 5400 gal poly tank. I have 4 of these tanks plumbed in series. The pump is a Flint and Walling pump capable of producing 80gpm @ 60+ psi. I am using a single pump to supply an irrigation system that is existing. The pump has been sized for the system I am attaching it to. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 03-12-09, 02:00 PM
waterwelldude's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: S.E. Texas
Posts: 943
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Hi, welcome to the forum


If you haven't already bought the pump. I would look into using a booster instead of a submersible. You can get a booster pump to do the same thing you are doing with the sub, but at a better price, less of a cost to run (less amps), easier to fix or replace, less of a chance of the pump cavitating/running out of water.

The booster will pull from the bottom of the tank, where the sub will not be utilize the last 3 or 4 feet of water in the tanks.
Laying a submersible down is a bad idea. It will cut the life of one by around 80%.

All this is under the assumption that the submersible you are talking about is a 6" pump that you could place in a 6" or 8" well.


Travis
 
  #3  
Old 03-12-09, 05:23 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Great Lakes
Posts: 29
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Agreed.

This is a well pump and nothing but; and should be installed per http://www.flintandwalling.com/pdfdo...ub%20Instr.pdf as the typical installations outlined will greatly increase your reliability (don't skip a fitting or item illustrated).

Booster pumps have their own issues (with overhung shaft loading mainly) yet as waterwelldude mentioned; they are basically the only cost effective method of delivering the condition point that you describe out of a tank. These pumps operate on tight tolerances; so do not allow anything to come out of that bottom valve which isn't clean water; or have a spare unit on hand.
 

Last edited by SxS adventure; 03-12-09 at 06:40 PM.
  #4  
Old 03-19-09, 06:38 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Submersible well pump inside water storage tank

Is there someone on this forum that can size a booster pump to my needs? I realize I will need to give the pipe size, length of run and elevations in order for someone to do that.
 
  #5  
Old 03-19-09, 04:35 PM
waterwelldude's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: S.E. Texas
Posts: 943
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
How much water do you need? gpm.
How far does it need to go?
What size pipe are you going to use?
What kind of system is there?
If that pump was sized for what is there now, how many heads or zones are there?
How often are you going to be watering?
 
  #6  
Old 03-20-09, 08:17 AM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Existing irrigation system specs

Need 60 to 65 GPM @ 80 to 100 PSI.

Existing piping from water source to end point of use as follows.

1463 ft of 3" schedule 40 PVC

400 ft of 4" schedule 40 PVC

For a total of 1863 ft. 3 AND 4 inch combined.

There are 55 stations being used on the water management system.

Highest elevation from the water source to end point of use is 70 ft rise. This elevation reference makes up approximately 5 % of the system plumbing. The balance of the system is in the 30 to 40 ft elevation above the storage tank placement.

Watering 6 days a week for short intervals, depending on the type of sprinkler heads and soil conditions.
 

Last edited by Searchman; 03-20-09 at 09:43 AM.
  #7  
Old 03-21-09, 07:40 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Great Lakes
Posts: 29
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I hope that this sounds helpful and not like simply noise from the peanut gallery....but you're probably going to have to settle/design around 65 gpm @ 100 psi and research the individual sprinkler head ratings (gpm @ psi); keeping in mind that most orifices wear over time. If each 'station' is actually a pre-fabbed sprinkler unit of some kind; you may also need to make certain that there are no pipe size restrictions leading to it that may throw off the manufacturer's rating of the head itself (in other words; 65 gpm needs to flow through 'x' size reduction pipe off the main feeder line...right on up to the head with very little friction loss). Many systems do not pass this test from the get-go and the total system HP needed ends up being more than what is even available on-site. Also keep in mind that 65 divided by 15 is 4 gpm (or so) per new sprinkler. You may be able to judge the wear on your current orrifices by determining their installation date and measuring the hole diameter...which may also clue you in as to just how long your pump might last in the long run.
 
  #8  
Old 09-02-14, 06:03 PM
Y
Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 1
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Can anyone recommend a good booster pump, I need to pump water from a tank to another tank at 350ft elevation.
I need only 1.5 hp or less motor, as it is running on solar, and don't have much battery capacity.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: