Procedure for Adding Calcite to Acid Neutralizer Tank

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  #1  
Old 03-30-09, 07:45 AM
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Smile Procedure for Adding Calcite to Acid Neutralizer Tank

Recharging the Acid Neutralizer Tank

These instructions applies to an Acid Neutralizer Tank that has an electric powered automatic backwashing control attached to the top of the tank. This procedure took about one hour and it saved me a plumber bill of $150.

Buy a 50 lb. bag of "fine calcite" (I bought this at my local hardware store).

Manual backflush for 10 minutes by turning the control knob clockwise to "backwash".

Turn off input valve #1 (water into the Neutralizer Tank)

Turn off outflow valve #2 (water out of the Neutralizer Tank)

Turn control knob clockwise back to "in service"

Make a funnel/water-catcher by cutting the bottom out of a one gallon orange juice container.

Remove the plug from tank using 18" adjustable crescent wrench or adjustable pliers that are wide enough to fit on the plug.

About a half-gallon of water will flow out of the tank, catch it with the water-catcher that I made from an orange juice container.

Siphon off about 7 - 8 gallons of water using a 5-gallon bucket (2.5 gallons at a time to keep weight down), dump it outside.

Remove the lid from the orange-juice container, to turn it into a funnel.

Screw the OJ funnel into the opening in the tank. It fits very well.

Use the funnel to add "fine calcite" to the tank, up to the upper fill level mark. That should be about 12 inches below the top of the tank.

Slowly open #1 valve a little to let water flow slowly back into the tank, up to just below the plug hole.

Use a toothbrush to clean the threads of the plug hole (so there is no calcite)

Insert plug, hand tighten 1/2 to 3/4 turn after contact is made. DO NOT use a wrench or pliers to tighten the plug.

Open inlet valve all the way.

Do a manual backwash for about 10 minutes, then reset back to "in service"

Open the outflow valve.

Note: Water may taste slightly funny for a few hours after doing this procedure.
 
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  #2  
Old 04-02-09, 07:31 AM
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hi htcg1 -


Don't have an Acid Neutralizer Tank yet, but good chance I will.

I know enough about it to follow your instructions but I do have one question. Seems to me your instructions are very well written and nice and clear and I'm saving them , but I do have one question:

Why do you have to do a manual backwash after you add the calcite?
 
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Old 04-07-09, 11:45 AM
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Good question! Before doing the procedure I asked the plumber who installed the neutralizer. He told me to do the second backwash, but I didn't ask why.

As I think about, here is why I think that is done. After installing the plug in the tank and turning on the input water valve, there is still some air in the top of the tank. The back wash will allow the air to escape the tank and be replaced with water. Then when the system is put back into service, there will not be air getting into the house water pipes.
 
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Old 04-08-09, 08:10 AM
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Thanks htgc1! That certainly sounds like a good explanation. I'm almost certain to get an AN tank also (almost went the chem injection route- but looks like I'm ruling that out).

I'll want to do the calcite addition myself as you do. Sounds like you had no problems whatsoever doing it yourself. That's good.

Plan to laminate your instructions and hang them on the pipes near the tank. (I like to laminate info and hang them on heating, plumbing, alarm system, etc.)

Thanks again!
 
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Old 03-27-12, 04:25 PM
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what is the difference between calcite and salt (specifically the Morton Rust Remover Super Pellets Salt - 40lbs)?
 
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Old 03-29-12, 06:11 PM
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Salt is sodium chloride, NaCl. Calcite is calcium carbonate, CaCO3. If you have slightly acidic water (a PH in the range of 5.0-7.0), Calcite can be used to increase the PH thus reducing the acidity. If the PH is below 5.0, calcite is not suitable for this purpose.

Frank
 
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Old 04-25-14, 08:00 AM
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How to deal with water in tank before adding calcite?

Hello! I found the original procedure posted on 3/30/09 to be helpful, however I do have one follow-up question. Is the combination of starting with the back flush, and shutting the input and output flows supposed to not only reduce pressure before taking the cap off of the neutralizer tank, but also remove the amount of water in the tank to allow for space for the calcite to be added? When I attempt the process and remove the cap, water continues to flow out. I did shut off the water coming into the tank from the well source and also turned level at the top of the tank so it was not ďin serviceĒ.
FYI.. I have a second tank for water softening right next to the neutralizer tank in case that matters to what I am trying to do.
 
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Old 04-25-14, 05:37 PM
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hi rigdleyĖ

Iím no expert or plumber for sure, but I installed an AN Filter last year (but I havenít added a softener yet). I havenít added any new calcite either, so I havenít used that procedure in post #1.

I have however, taken some material out of the tank (long story, lol) so I had to open the dome hole.

I installed my AN Filter with a gauge and a hose bib right after the AN Tank as depicted in figure 2 on page 5 of this document, plus a shutoff before and after the tank as also depicted in figure 2:

http://www.cleanwaterstore.com/techn...er_vortech.pdf

I close the shutoff before and after the tank, and then open the hose bib and drain some water to relieve the pressure (Iíve only done this twice). Then when you open the cap water wonít spill out.

I think what is happening to you is that even though you turn off the pump, or use the shutoff before the AN Tank and turn it off, and you put the tank in bypass mode, the tank is still under pressure. So when you open the fill cap, water will in fact rush out. I believe thatís true. Maybe you can open a drain somewhere to relieve the pressure?

I found this statement below from a professional, explaining to someone how to add the calcite. I noticed in these instructions that the backwash drain is in the open state and the water is shut off and then the dome hole plug is opened. I guess with the backwash drain being open the water in the tank is not under pressure and wonít flow out of the tank dome hole when the dome hole is opened? At least thatís the way it looks to me.

As far as getting the water out of the tank, he doesnít say. htgc1 in post #1 just says siphon off the water also. So I just used a syringe and an extension plastic tube and sucked water out of the tank via the dome hole when I wanted to remove the water (because I had to scoop down in the tank and take out some material for other reasons.)
"Good calcite"? I think you want it to last longer so you don't have to replenish it so often, right? The only way to have it last longer is to use less water. Any dealer can sell you calcite.

You should put the control valve into backwash and unplug the control valve. Let it backwash for 5-10 minutes, then shut off the water. Then remove the dome hole plug. Then remove water from the tank so the volume of new calcite won't cause the water to rise to the dome hole. Add the mineral. Then put the plug in and turn the water on slowly; the control valve is still in the backwash position and watch the drain water color. Open the water shut off valve periodically until it is wide open and you had no mineral leaving the tank. Do that until the drain water is clear. Plug the control valve in and let it finish back to Service. Then you're done.
 
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Old 04-30-14, 06:25 AM
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zoesdad-
Thanks for your comments and suggestions! I'll give it another try.
 
  #10  
Old 04-30-14, 09:32 AM
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Sure enough ridgely! Good luck !
 
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