Hello, DETAILS: I have a submersible pump in a 90' well, this well has a 9" casing. This well is at least 60 years old, maybe older. (I was told that the present 90' casing doesn't go as deep as the well used to be). The pump and the controller were made by a company called "Wayne Equipment" and were also installed about 60 years ago. The system is 220v. The tank in our basement under the controller is roughly the size of a 55 gallon barrel (I am guessing... it is taller and skinnier). QUESTION: The pump has worked fine for years but now wont switch on, (not urgent since I now have city water as well). I have 220v all the way to the control box. The capacitor, overload protector, and relay inside the control box test good. I have white, black, red, and green wires running to the pump. I have continuity between the white and black wires but no continuity between any other combination of white, black, and red. I DO have some continuity between my green ground wire running to the pump and ALL other wires (white, red, & black). Between the ground and these wires I get between 500 to 900 ohms of resistance. When powered up and I manually close the relay on the tank, the control box "hums then clicks" once every few seconds. Any ideas? Thanks

There are a lot of problems that can be seen in the picture (please see picture) and I am preparing future posts to ask for help fixing them. But my immediate problem is that the pressure switch is chattering upon cut-in. But not every time. Just noticed it yesterday. [url]http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/rr355/zoesdaddy/DSC00794.jpg[/url] That is a check valve that the gauge and switch are mounted on in the top of the picture. I replaced the switch (40-60) and gauge last year. [I]Thought [/I]I had set the empty tank air pressure to 38 psi at that time and cut-in 40. Checked diaphragm tank air without water yesterday with 2 different gauges. Got an air pressure of 40. So I thought aha -that’s why I’m getting chatter! I lowered empty tank air to 38. But still get chatter. But not every time? I put a temporary gauge down at the boiler drain as can be seen in the picture. Don’t understand what’s going on? (1) Pump runs and cuts out when check valve gauge=49-50 but gauge near tank =45 (2) Use some water, flush toilet, etc. then check valve gauge about 43 but gauge near tank about 40 (3) Run some water slow until check valve gauge about 40 but gauge near tank drops only a little farther: needle seems to drop from 40 to a little below in a jerky jump – then just sits there. So the 2 gauges are pretty close at this time? Both about 40. (4) Run water a little bit more and switch chatters a few times while check valve gauge needle jumps back and forth wildly. Then contacts stay closed and system pumps back up to check valve gauge around 49-50 and gauge near tank around 45 . Then cut-out occurs. Tried this again but no chatter this time? In the last year I’m sure I would have noticed chatter if it existed so I can’t figure out what changed? All information/pictures I’ve seen says the switch should be on a tee [I]near [/I]the tank, but I think some folks thought this setup was acceptable. But I could have described it improperly. No picture at that time. Until I redo a lot of stuff there, could I just ignore the gauge on the check valve for the time being and try to make adjustments using the gauge near the tank? Is there any way to adjust this setup properly? Or would the problem really be the switch or something else? Any thoughts would be sincerely appreciated!