Myers MG200 Grinder Pump
#1
08-10-10, 05:20 AM
Myers MG200 Grinder Pump
Pump is on 240V deicated 20 amp breaker.
Pump in approximately 100 gallon sewage pump tank to sewer system thru 2" poly pipe approx 15 ft head over 500 ft.
Pump worked perfectly for about 5 years.
Has recently been tripping breaker once a week or so.
Resetting breaker doesn't re-start pump, so have removed pump about 15 times, freed up impellor, and it usually works fine for another few days to a week when it trips again.
A couple of months ago, I replaced the grinder impellor and shredding ring, thinking maybe it was jamming instead of "cutting."
This more or less doubled the time before it tripped the breaker, but didn't solve the problem.
A month ago, I replaced the bronze check valve. The check valve is installed in a horizontal position after the pump. The original check valve had been installed so that the flapper swung sideways, but I put the new one in so that the flapper hung vertically down. This actually seemed to help more than the grinding impellor/ring replacement, but it still trips the breaker occasionally.
I have replaced the breaker 4 times but no improvement.
Before I replace the whole unit at about $1500, is there any last resort?
It seems that the motor has lost some oomph and just doesn't have the power anymore to grind. It really doesn't seem to take a lot of hand force to free up the impellor when it has jammed, although clearly it has been jamming the impellor.
Anyway, thanks for any advice.
Pump in approximately 100 gallon sewage pump tank to sewer system thru 2" poly pipe approx 15 ft head over 500 ft.
Pump worked perfectly for about 5 years.
Has recently been tripping breaker once a week or so.
Resetting breaker doesn't re-start pump, so have removed pump about 15 times, freed up impellor, and it usually works fine for another few days to a week when it trips again.
A couple of months ago, I replaced the grinder impellor and shredding ring, thinking maybe it was jamming instead of "cutting."
This more or less doubled the time before it tripped the breaker, but didn't solve the problem.
A month ago, I replaced the bronze check valve. The check valve is installed in a horizontal position after the pump. The original check valve had been installed so that the flapper swung sideways, but I put the new one in so that the flapper hung vertically down. This actually seemed to help more than the grinding impellor/ring replacement, but it still trips the breaker occasionally.
I have replaced the breaker 4 times but no improvement.
Before I replace the whole unit at about $1500, is there any last resort?
It seems that the motor has lost some oomph and just doesn't have the power anymore to grind. It really doesn't seem to take a lot of hand force to free up the impellor when it has jammed, although clearly it has been jamming the impellor.
Anyway, thanks for any advice.
#2
08-10-10, 02:30 PM
Is the pump hooked to a control panel with capacitors inside (4 wire cord) or connected directly to a 240v circuit (3wire cord)?
If the pump has jammed alot it can wreak havoc on the starting circuit of the pump. It trys to start and trys to start and eventually something has to give.
You would need to check the resistance of the motor's windings first. Sometimes this info is in the owners manual as main and start resistance. On a 4 wire cord you can check this at the cord end. On a 3 wire cord pump you would have to drain the oil and take the top of the pump off to get acess to those wires.
Typically the white to black wires will give you the main winding resistance and the white to red will give you the start. You have to have an ohm meter to check this.
If the resistance is way off you have two choices, rewind the motor or replace the pump.
If that checks out ok then I would replace the start capacitor, the run capacitor and the relay. The start cap gives the motor a jolt to start it and the relay takes it out of the circuit when the motor gets close to full speed.
If the pump has jammed alot it can wreak havoc on the starting circuit of the pump. It trys to start and trys to start and eventually something has to give.
You would need to check the resistance of the motor's windings first. Sometimes this info is in the owners manual as main and start resistance. On a 4 wire cord you can check this at the cord end. On a 3 wire cord pump you would have to drain the oil and take the top of the pump off to get acess to those wires.
Typically the white to black wires will give you the main winding resistance and the white to red will give you the start. You have to have an ohm meter to check this.
If the resistance is way off you have two choices, rewind the motor or replace the pump.
If that checks out ok then I would replace the start capacitor, the run capacitor and the relay. The start cap gives the motor a jolt to start it and the relay takes it out of the circuit when the motor gets close to full speed.
#3
08-11-10, 06:11 PM
Hey Mr. pumpguy,
The pump is wired directly to the breaker.
I found a really good link to the pump specs: http://www.femyers.com/pdf/pdf.ww/23833a489.pdf which has the internal wiring diagram, shows how to remove the starting and running capacitors, but doesn't give winding resistances.
However, I seem to remember that the nameplate had running amps though, and maybe even no load and/or stuck armature load. The next time I have to remove the pump I'll check for more info on the nameplate.
Thanks for the really good info
. If I can't find winding resistances, I guess maybe if I'm lucky, I could just replace the capacitors and the problem would be solved.
Thanks for the great advice; I'll let you know how I make out.
The pump is wired directly to the breaker.
I found a really good link to the pump specs: http://www.femyers.com/pdf/pdf.ww/23833a489.pdf which has the internal wiring diagram, shows how to remove the starting and running capacitors, but doesn't give winding resistances.
However, I seem to remember that the nameplate had running amps though, and maybe even no load and/or stuck armature load. The next time I have to remove the pump I'll check for more info on the nameplate.
Thanks for the really good info
. If I can't find winding resistances, I guess maybe if I'm lucky, I could just replace the capacitors and the problem would be solved. Thanks for the great advice; I'll let you know how I make out.
#4
08-12-10, 03:39 PM
There is some pretty good info on your pump from that link. For some reason most pump manufactures don't give you the winding resistance figures. You might be able to get them from Meyers if you have the model and serial number.
Your pump doesn't have a relay to get the start cap out of the circuit, it has a centrifugal switch (14I). As the motor starts spinning it either opens or close a set of points that takes the start cap out of the circuit. If this isn't working as it should it could be staying in the start mode and drawing high amps tripping your breaker.
When a pump starts it usually draws about 3 times the nameplate amps. A 15 amp pump draws about 45 on startup and if it stays in this mode it doesn't take long to trip a 20A breaker.
Your pump doesn't have a relay to get the start cap out of the circuit, it has a centrifugal switch (14I). As the motor starts spinning it either opens or close a set of points that takes the start cap out of the circuit. If this isn't working as it should it could be staying in the start mode and drawing high amps tripping your breaker.
When a pump starts it usually draws about 3 times the nameplate amps. A 15 amp pump draws about 45 on startup and if it stays in this mode it doesn't take long to trip a 20A breaker.
#5
08-19-10, 03:48 PM
Mr. Pumpguy,
Well ironically, the pump hasn't tripped a breaker for over a week now. Maybe it knows that you're getting me close to a solution.
The next time I have to remove it to unjam the grinding impellor, I'm gonna check the nameplate again for specs.
I'm thinking it's probably not that the centrifugal switch is staying closed, because everytime it trips the breaker, the impellor is stuck when I take the pump out. Also, wouldn't it restart after resetting the breaker the next day? When I reset the breaker, I can hear it humming (but not running) until it trips again.
The impellor just seems to get stuck a lot easier than it used to.
Thanks for your help. I'll keep you posted, if you don't mind hanging in there.
Well ironically, the pump hasn't tripped a breaker for over a week now. Maybe it knows that you're getting me close to a solution.
The next time I have to remove it to unjam the grinding impellor, I'm gonna check the nameplate again for specs.
I'm thinking it's probably not that the centrifugal switch is staying closed, because everytime it trips the breaker, the impellor is stuck when I take the pump out. Also, wouldn't it restart after resetting the breaker the next day? When I reset the breaker, I can hear it humming (but not running) until it trips again.
The impellor just seems to get stuck a lot easier than it used to.
Thanks for your help. I'll keep you posted, if you don't mind hanging in there.
#6
09-26-13, 04:24 PM
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Exactly the same problem with Myers MGH200 21p- did the capacitor fix it?
I'm having exactly the same set of problems with my Myers. I've had the crew pull it out and had to pump it to get to it and it's always the same. Push on it a little and break it free and put it back together. Then it happens again after a few days or week. I'm trying to get some capacitors for it so that I can pull it out try and put it in myself. The pump is not made anymore and is only 6 years old. They may not have capacitor kits available apparently. Can't believe that. Seems irresponsible. If I can't fix it I will replace with e-one. They said that the cost for pump and panel with labor around $2500. They said all work and parts are totally guareented for two years and they will extend that to 5 years for $300 more. I'm not a salesman but that seems like a good deal and a lot of municipalities require the E-One for residential. Seems like a good endorsment. I cannot get anyone to even offer to repair my Myers. They just want to sell a new one or charge $350 to pull it and spin it and go. I'd like that job too!!
#7
09-26-13, 07:51 PM
Group Moderator
Welcome to the forums.
The thread is several years old and you may not get a reply from the above members.
I can't find a schematic for your exact unit. They don't even offer an owners manual for it anymore.
I was looking at the parts list for the newer style replacement pump and it uses two capacitors....a run and a start one. It also uses a centrifugal starting switch. So your unit could require a starting capacitor as well as the centrifugal switch and don't forget the upper sealing o ring.
Just curious.... when they pick up the pump and "give it a spin" is that all they do ? Is there anything getting stuck in there other than the normal septic waste products ?
It's not picking up rocks/cement pieces is it ?
The thread is several years old and you may not get a reply from the above members.
I can't find a schematic for your exact unit. They don't even offer an owners manual for it anymore.
I was looking at the parts list for the newer style replacement pump and it uses two capacitors....a run and a start one. It also uses a centrifugal starting switch. So your unit could require a starting capacitor as well as the centrifugal switch and don't forget the upper sealing o ring.
Just curious.... when they pick up the pump and "give it a spin" is that all they do ? Is there anything getting stuck in there other than the normal septic waste products ?
It's not picking up rocks/cement pieces is it ?
