Septic tank and seepage pit help advice.

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  #1  
Old 03-28-11, 04:25 PM
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Septic tank and seepage pit help advice.

I pumped my septic a few days ago. I get to a point a few times a year that the exit por in the septic tank is over the outlet pipe.

My survey says I have 3 seepage pits. I just found out Saturday, while looking for the D box, that there is only one seepage pit. ( Its as big as the septic but shallow and has holes in the sides )

The pit was full of water, but has since drained down to 4-6". While probing the bottom with a shovel it seemed there is a hard crust. I dug some up and its black sludge.

No one could answer my questions regarding maintainance. I am figuring calling the pumper to try and pump this sludge out.

Then I am going to add Aid ox.

http://www.herchem.com/specs/aidox.pdf

Then wait a week and add some aerobic stuff.

1. Is this correct to do to a seepage pit? Am I wasting money.
2. How about those air pump things? Do they work?( I saw this but figure I can make my own)

Septic Problems | Septic Aeration : Aero-Stream | Aero-Stream®, LLC
 
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Old 03-28-11, 06:22 PM
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There is just no info on the web about seepage pit maintainance. The only time it says anything about pumping them is with these restorers.

Septic seep is caciulm polysulfide. Calcium polysulfide has been employed as coagulating agents in heavy clay soil to increase the perculation of water through them.

This stuff is $299

Frequently Asked Questions


Aid ox is Sodium percarbonate. It is a powder that releases hydrogen peroxide, and it is very concentrated. Its also Sodium Carbonate and Sodium Metasilicate.

Peroxicide?

http://www.herchem.com/specs/aidox.pdf

$70 a bottle need 4.


What to do.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 03-28-11, 06:34 PM
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Any of the stuff that is made to pour down the drain, is a waste of money.
If any of it worked there would be no need for a pumper guy.

Adding air will make the system last longer.
The sewer, after it passes the air chamber will be considerably cleaner, but the bio-mat will still form.
It will just take much longer.
The water that is in the field lines or pit or any other type that has lines that keep the water under ground, will still turn back septic or (black water) in about a week.
On the plus side, its just water and can be absorbed in to the soil at a faster rate, and for longer periods of time, versus one without air.

Just don't get that stuff you pour down the drain.
 
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Old 03-28-11, 06:54 PM
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So adding a air system to the septic is best for restoring flow in the drainfeild? But the water will turn black anyway?

Is sucking the bottom sludge out of the pit a good idea?

Those restorers are added to the pit directly. I figure there is no silver bullet. Since it anaerobic bacterial would adding aerobic bacteria help?

Im a plumber but not a septic pro. A 10 yr old pit should still be able to absorb water. The rocks around the tank are kind of black.

I will take pics tomorrow.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 03-28-11, 06:58 PM
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I wonder if I can buy a fish tank bubbler and make my own device.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 03-28-11, 07:52 PM
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Since it anaerobic bacterial would adding aerobic bacteria help?

No.
Anaerobic and aerobic live in two different worlds.
The anaerobic live in a very low aerated environment, if air is added, the aerobic bacteria start to grow and the anaerobic bacteria die.

Adding air is the only way to create aerobic bacteria.

Is sucking the bottom sludge out of the pit a good idea?

Yes,
Cleaning the sludge will aid in the longevity of the system.

A 10 yr old pit should still be able to absorb water.

Yes it should. Ten years is not that old, if, the system was designed for the amount of water that is being put into it.
The black rocks are common. They will turn black in just a few week of a brand new system.

I wonder if I can buy a fish tank bubbler and make my own device.

I have seen it tried, but most do not do any research before running out to the pet store.
It takes a certain amount of air for the amount of sewer being generated. If you don't have enough air, the aerobic bacteria can't get established.
 
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Old 03-29-11, 06:28 AM
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Thanks waterwelldude.

And what do you think of that septic seep?

How about the aid ox?

I have the links in post #2. One is more or less Hydrogen peroxide(aid ox) And the other is calcium polysulfide. Something for clay soil.

Snake oils??? I usually am not a sucker to these things but it make you want to beleve. I am thinking the septic seep. I cant see where peroxide would help. The septic guy swears by it. It just bubbles the water when added.

Mike NJ
 
  #8  
Old 03-29-11, 11:09 AM
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Peroxide is for killing bacteria. Myself, I can't see where that would give any advantage to a system that need bacteria to work.
If its not very expensive, give it a try.
I have seen hundreds of cure alls through the years. There kinda like those
"as seen on tv" type things.
 
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Old 03-31-11, 01:30 PM
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OK Covered the hole to the septic. Thats the spot between the two PVC ports. Did I do good putting the grass back?

Also the trench I dug looking for a D box is covered. Looks like there was not a hole there.

No D box, but the line just goes to this seepage pit. I did not get the bottom sucked out because all the septic companys wanted a full $180 to do it.

Its been a week and all the water drained. It was full. You can see the water line in the pic.

I did add the aid ox stuff when it was full of water. 3 bottles. I have a link in my first post.

I added a bottle of bacteria and thats why you see have the bottom of the tank is brown (bacteria mad it bubble ) and the other half is black. I could not reach the otherside of the tank to rack the bottom. I do see there is a lid on the otherside from the pic. I just stuck the camera in there. I cant get my fat head in far enough.

With that said, does anyone out there know how to get this tank to perc better???? Its only 10 yrs old. It seems my soil may be clay like but seems like sand based. That septic seep seems good but I dont know.

Its my understanding these tanks perc from the open bottom 80% and the side holes 20%.

Septic pictures by lawrosa - Photobucket

Thanks for looking and its unbelievable all the septic guys I talked to are pump and run. No help at all. Is it a big septic secret?????

I will invent something and put them all out of business.... Muuhhhaaaaa !!!!!

Mike NJ
 
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Old 04-02-11, 05:54 AM
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Unfortunately many pump truck operators are just low paid guys that can drive a truck and pump. Luckily in my small town I know most everyone in the business and make sure to get the person in the know whenever I have a special problem. Quite often it's the owner of the business or one of the more experienced drivers.

Like Waterwelldude mentioned hydrogen peroxide is a sanitizing/sterilizing product. I'm afraid I don't have anything good to say. Adding it to a tank attempts to kill the bacteria that are present. I hope the Aid Ox was neutralized before adding the bacteria otherwise it probably killed the bacteria you added. If the fizzing & bubbling you saw started very soon after adding the bacteria that is most likely the hydrogen peroxide splitting as it kills your bacteria. If it took at least several hours for bubbling to become evident then it may be biological activity.

In most cases adding bacteria to a tank is not needed. Even a virgin (brand new) system can start itself automatically and rapidly come up to full processing capacity with the bacteria naturally present in the waste. It's a beautifully simple and affective system. The bacteria rapidly reproduce until they reach the carrying capacity of the system. Adding more bacteria often does very little since the tank is already supporting all the bacteria it can. The extra bacteria don't hurt but in most cases it does not help a noticeable amount.

Short of installing a new system or increasing the leach field or seep pit capacity is to add an aerobic component. Septic systems operate with anaerobic bacteria. They work well but without oxygen the anaerobic bacteria are slow. If the system is undersized or overworked the anaerobic bacteria just can't eat the poo fast enough. Aerobic (that need oxygen) bacteria work much faster. As a retrofit a small plastic chamber is often added to the septic tank near the infeed end. The waste enters this chamber and air is pumped in and bubbled through the waste. The plastic chamber has baffles or holes so the waste can leave but it basically creates a small aerobic chamber separated from the main tank.

There is some controversy about the use of a separate chamber but most seem to think it is better than just plopping a bubbler into the septic tank. The chamber prevents currents and stirring from happening which can disturb the muck layer on the bottom of the tank. Just dropping in a bubbler will aerate the tank and encourage aerobic bacteria but just like in an aquarium it stirs things up which could cause solids and unprocessed waste to pass out of the tank.
 
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Old 04-04-11, 07:45 AM
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This stuff I got from the home store actually ate the bottom layer of sludge. Look in the pics I posted where it shows the bottom of the tank. Half is brown and half is black. The black part I could not reach to treat.

It was $20 so must be good. Cost alot right???...LOL

Products



Just incase someone needs to know if these products work. I still have the pit cover open and am going to monitor the levels.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 04-05-11, 05:34 PM
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OK.

So its been afew days and water is finally leaving the septic and filling the seepage pit. Again I feel the water should be seeping overnight and not be this full in just 3 days.

I estimate we use 100 gallons a day. 3 days was 6 showers(15min) 1 bath(for baby) 2 dishwasher usage, Sinks.etc

I have just put 1 gpm aerators on the sinks and am waiting for my 1.25 gpm shower heads. The shower heads will cut the gpm in half. Hopefully it will help.

Anyway here was the tank empty. I used cess flo and thats why half is brown and the other half is black. Thats the part I could not reach.



Here it is filled with 3 days of water. About 3" or so.



I added another cess flo. I want to see if it will eat that layer of sludge in the back of the tank since its covered with water. It started churning and bubbling real good. You could see the brown color throughout the top.




Hey whatever it is doing it seem to work at eating the sludge. I will take pics tomorrow to see what the level is and if this stuff did anything.

From my soil type I am still considering septic seep. I am not sure if that aid ox stuf i used did anything. It could of, its just I am just seeing what this tank is doing. You dont know when you cant see it so I dont know whats normal.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-12-12, 09:22 PM
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OK been 9 months and pit aint percing like it should.


Should try to find old latererals and tie into those or add a pit next to this one.

But I have to say the only thing that lowers the water is that cess flo stuff from the home store. Its $20 for a gallon and is just aerobic bacteria.

So I researched the aeration process to make my pit aerobic. I am not going to treat the septic tank, I will aerate the field directly.
Thats the benefit of having a seepage pit I guess instead of laterals.

OK I will take some pics of the effluent levels before and after and let you know if it works.

Oh and pump and diffuser runs about $200. Hakko or Hiblow 40L and I have a line on a good diffuser that they use in the waste water industry.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-13-12, 05:05 AM
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If you need to find a supplier for anything you can check the Pumper Magazine's Supplier Directory.
 
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Old 01-13-12, 06:48 AM
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Seams alot of commercial stuff there when I checked some sites.

I get my bristle brush filters here for the outlet. Yrs ago no one sold them locally. Now I think its common. And when you look at the aeration packages they all sell them with the aerators.

Welcome to Sim/Tech Filter

Pics to come soon.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-13-12, 09:04 AM
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In normal operation the septic tank works as one gallon of liquid exiting to the seepage pit for every one gallon of new sewage entering from the house drain line.

After the septic tank itself has been pumped, pumping it again in quick succession accomplishes nothing except to buy time until downstream problems (here, in the seepage pit) can be fixed.

With a layer of sludge on the bottom of the seepage pit for so long, it is likely that biomat (a non-porous layer created by a bacteria species that is very commonly found in septic leach fields) may have formed just under the pit. This has to be broken up, either by using strong chemicals, or by removing the soil/sand containing the biomat and replacing that. To reduce the total amount of strong chemical (some have suggested sodium hydroxide) needed, as much of the muck as possible should be pumped out.
 

Last edited by AllanJ; 01-13-12 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 01-13-12, 09:24 AM
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AllanJ my goal is to turn the seepage pit from anaerobic to aerobic. This will, in theory, allow the aerobic bacteria to take over and eat the biomat that has formed in the anaerobic state that the septic effluent is at currently.

I know what my issue is.

Here is my goal. I am ordering next week so I will post before and after shots.

This pump @ $160. 2 cfm

Hakko HK40L Linear Air Pump - Hakko Air Pumps - Air Pumps & Accessories


Then this diffuser. 12"

Air Tube Diffusers w/ plug

So for about $225 pump, diffuser, and hose its worth a try.

I am going to just stick it down the 2" clean out service port for now, then do something more permenant if it works.



Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-31-12, 05:08 PM
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Ok.

Dipped the seepage pit. Its 6" from the top. This is when I would normally have my friend from the mobile RV place come and pump it some.

Doing this for a yr seemed to keep it at this level and possible restored the top layer, buy there has to be a lot of biomat in there.

So pump came, hose, air stick, and I buried the hose, cut a notch in my clean out and installed the aearator.

This cost me $180. I also bought some cess flo aerobic stuff from the home store to help get it going.

I have pics of the starting level. I will be dipping once a week and posting on mondays if I can.

We are family of 5 using everything normally.

So we will see!!!!!!!!!


Pics

Here is the septic. In and out service ports. Lid is 21" down in the middle. I dont mind digging every three yrs.

[IMG][/IMG]

Septic outlet port in the distance. The 2" clean out goes to the top of the seepage pit.
I keep it open trying to get air in there.
[IMG][/IMG]

Getting ready to dip. Marks are at 1 ft on stick. They are abit faded.
Stick is 5 ft and goes to bottom of tank.
At the 2ft mark it will be at the top of the inlet to the pit.


[IMG][/IMG]

Dipped.

[IMG][/IMG]

If I leave it alone the level will rise higher then the inlet. This is why I have been pumping it off before it reaches that level. This is also why I am trying aeration. I tried all the chemicals and nothing worked. Save your money. Cess flo is the only thing I saw results with that is in expensive. Aid ox had results in the begining but it was temperary.

OK will post next week and show pump set up also.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 01-31-12, 06:00 PM
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Nothing to do with your thread but I thought of you. I had another drain field fail on one of my rental houses (seem to get one every two or three years). I'm meeting the Environmental Services Inspector at the site tomorrow to put together a plan and then I get to play with the excavator again. I've got lots of room so I'm pretty certain I'll save the existing line, install a valve and put in a new EZ Flow field.
 
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Old 01-31-12, 06:47 PM
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I have heard bad things on anything infiltrator..... I am trying to find some info.

I see that its just pipe with its own stone netted around it. Geez how much is that???

The secret from my septic guys is make sure you get washed stone when doing a septic. I believe its triple washed stuff around here. Otherwise the fines clogg it up.

3/4" Washed Gravel- Septic Stone



Most people dont know what they are getting when they get the septics installed.

I have seen many with just fine gravel...Uggg.

Here is the reg for NC for EZ.

http://www.infiltratorsystems.com/pd...h Carolina.pdf


I would not waste the money. What is wrong with the current one? You sure not a clogg on one lateral or a toilet running for a week????

Mike NJ
 
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Old 02-01-12, 05:40 AM
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It's an old system installed when the house was smaller, several house additions later..., and it's been giving warning signs for years. I've been having the tank pumped regularly and installed a screen on the output but it's circling the rim getting worse and worse. I ran a power auger down 150 feet of the existing drain line and that got it flowing slowly which is buying me some time so I don't have to do a panic repair.

I don't think EZ Flow is as good as a gravel based system but the light weight and pre-packaged 10ft sections means I can install a system in one day with much less impact on the site. It's especially helpful with smaller lots where there is not much room to marshal 20 tons of stone and the equipment to handle it. With the EZ Flow I use a compact excavator and tractor with a front end loader and be done before lunch and calling for the inspection to backfill in the afternoon.


 
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Old 02-05-12, 02:20 PM
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OK week one. I have installed the aerator pump in my seepage pit and see fabulous results. Wow in just one week also. You could believe me or not it dont matter but I can say that whatever its doing it has reduced theseepage pit level in half.

Just went out and pulled the areator to dip the tank.

Here are the pics.

Here is the pump. Its a 25 cfm or liter hakko. It was $130 on line. Ran the hose out and burried it to the clean out.

[IMG][/IMG]


Hose going into clean out.


[IMG][/IMG]


Cap off.


[IMG][/IMG]


Tank dipped. You can see there is less then a ft of effluent in the tank. Previous test last week was at 1.5 ft. But that was an older pic. Before I put the aerator down it was at 1.75 ft. At 2 ft it would be over flowing the inlet.

[IMG][/IMG]


You also see the aerator stick I got with the pump.

I will continue to monitor the results. So far I will be looking at something possibly with more cfm that I can put in the main tank. But I am leary about churning up the solids. I was told my set up offers the best option that I dont have laterals and am able to aerate the effluent directly.

I hope you take my experiemnet seriously and anyone with septic issues with the drain field may want to look into aeration as an alternative.

I will keep you all posted.

I am trying to figure how to pipe that hose into my cleanout that is more permanent that I can remove easy to dip the tank to check the level.

Oh and no smell.

If you read my previous post also you will know that my pit was not draining. I was getting ready to dump a new pit in nect to this one. You will also know that for the past 9 months I was pumping the pit out on occasion when it got too full.

I told the whole family to flush normally and shower as they normally would. It use to be if its yellow let it mellow, brown flush it down. Not no more. I encourage water to be used. the more water the more aeration, and better to eat the biomat IMO.

Whats you guys think?

Mike NJ
 
  #23  
Old 02-05-12, 02:40 PM
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I am glad it is working out. Just guessing but pumping in the air and going aerobic should process waste 20x faster than anaerobic so hopefully the pump you have now will be sufficient.
 
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Old 02-05-12, 08:30 PM
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Yeah dane. I got the seepage pit idea from this site.

Cesspool & Seepage Problems & Solutions

All the kits that are sold online are pricey. So I read about all the different cfm pumps that were offered and came to the conclusion high cfm is not needed. Most kits are 3 cfm or less for standard size septics. And since I have a pit I stumbled on the site in the link.

Now this pump says .35 amps. That would be .35A x 120V= 42 watts. But then it says 25 watts on the rating plate also. If it were 42 watts that would be 1 kw a day. @ .17 cents a Kw that would be about $5 a month for me to run 24/7. I can live with that.

Thats why I did not want a bigger pump also. Some are like 200 watts.

Here is info for all you drainfield folks.

Tank & Drain Field Problems

How Septic Aeration Works

I am not affiliated with the site in anyway, shape or form. Just posting because of the knowlegable info shown.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 02-13-12, 08:30 AM
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OK ladies and gents.

I checked the tank today on week #2 of my aeration experiment. Its going extremely well in a very short amount of time.

Down to 6" level from almost 2 ft. This would never occur on its own and at this point my tank would have been at the discharge pipe already and I would have called my friend to pump.

I will have to go back in my seepage pit pics and try to determine where I am at. I may not be hitting the holes in the side of the tank any longer and only percing from the bottom of the tank.

Well we will see where I will be at in week #3.

Here are the pics. I darkened the ft marks on my dip stick.

[IMG][/IMG]





[IMG][/IMG]


I encourage anyone with a seeptic with pits, laterals, or whatever.... to invest in an aeration retrofit next time they have their tank pumped.

IMO I dont think you need lots of aeration such as a large electric use pump. ( some are 100 watts plus) The pump I have is only 25L per minute/ 1 cfm

Checked with watt meter and pump is running 22 watts. At my rate this equals $3 a month electric use running 24/7.

See ya next week when I check the levels again.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 02-20-12, 09:21 AM
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FYI this is week 3.

I am down to 3" or so.

I am wondering if its beneficial to keep more water in the tank now that its aerating this well. This is where I am not sure and there is no info on the net out there.

Possibly I will put the 2.5 gpm shower heads back on?

I wonder if its better to have water so the aerobic bacteria will eat more of the biomat at higher levels of the gravel around the pit....?

Or best that its dry and probably will stay dry at the upper levels. It was my assumption the biomat stays a hard crust when dry?

Possibly I can just unplug the pump and see if the pit fills up again. Then plug it back in.

IDK...... Anyway pics below.

Since its so low I will probably do this once a month now. Then possibly check it every three months as time goes on.

I will let you know.

Mike NJ

[IMG][/IMG]




[IMG][/IMG]


Mike NJ
 
  #27  
Old 02-20-12, 12:43 PM
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Very interesting experiment you have done.

I've not heard of aeration used with a cesspool so I'm not sure if it's a good idea adding more water just for the sake of adding more. It looks like your system is flowing well so I would go back to the 2.5 shower head so you can have a decent shower.
 
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Old 02-20-12, 08:34 PM
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I've not heard of aeration used with a cesspool so I'm not sure if it's a good idea adding more water just for the sake of adding more.
Dane its a seepage pit. No solids. The seepage pit is my leach field. I am aerating that directly. If I had regular laterals I would be forced to aerate the septic tank itself.

I have 1.25 gpm at the shower heads. Its a good spray but the 2.5 gpm moens I had were the best. But even conserving water with these heads the pit would fill and not perc.

So my thinking is put the 2.5 gpm heads back on so I can keep some amount of water in the seepage pit. Right? You need water and air to make the aerobic bacteria. But I guess it would be no harm if the air pump just runs in a semi dry pit now.

IDK this part of it. Its all been trial and error so far. All I know is I have not yelled at the kids in three weeks to get the %$#$ out of the shower....LOL.

Mike NJ
 
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Old 02-21-12, 05:54 AM
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I think just live normally and not do anything specific to try and maintain a certain level in your seepage pit. Even if the level is below the aerator you are still pumping oxygen into the chamber so the bacteria in there can be aerobic. I would not turn the pump on and off. I don't know how long it takes to grow a good colony of aerobic bacteria. I'd hate to turn the pump off, have the tank go anaerobic and then have to start the process over again when the pump is turned back on.
 
  #30  
Old 04-21-12, 11:53 AM
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Just bumping this thread. Its an interesting read & I have similar problems
 
  #31  
Old 04-24-12, 02:29 PM
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aeration

If you currently have more than one leach field or pit, you should alternate their use and switch back and forth every year.
I am about to ad aeration to the clean water side of 2 of my tanks. From my research, for each I bought 1 Gast 1/4 hp rotary vane pumps and I will hook them to easy pro EPDM2 Diffuser using 1/2" PVC. I basically copied a kit sold for around $1200 and buy buying a rebuilt pump on EBAY and shopping for the diffuser It cost me just under $400. From what I read I want to keep the diffuser heads 18" off the bottom of the tank so as not to mix up the bottom sludge and drive it out into the leach field.
I also bought some tank lid risers to get the covers up to the surface so I do not have to dig them up for inspection. this also gives me an easy way to get the pvc for the aerator into the tank by drilling through the side of the PVC riser.
On another note, I found equal parts of baking soda, yeast and brown sugar added to the tank occassionally helps break down the solids. Very cheap and it works.
 
  #32  
Old 04-24-12, 05:37 PM
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hello Unclebob9

You mentioned the "water side of your 2 tanks" What are the tanks? Septic or seepage pit? Just curious. I plan on aerating my seepage pits. I see you're planning on having the aerators of the bottom 18". I think in my case I want to stir up solids because that is whats causing my drainage problem (I think) Again, my seepage pit ( I call them dry wells ) aren't draining. Hopefully I can avoid putting in 2 new dry wells. I have to look into putting in a distribution box. Right now the seepage pit are in series. Basically the second one is an overflow for the first one.

Keep us updated on how your system works.

Tim
 
  #33  
Old 04-24-12, 06:00 PM
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I have to look into putting in a distribution box.

TomH,


Yes a d box. Because you only have two 500 gal tanks you
don't
want to alternate with a bull run valve. The tanks are too small.

Put the d box oif you can so they feed evenly, and get a hakko 40 pump with a split air line. And two of those air sticks I should you in your other post.

Mike NJ


 
  #34  
Old 04-24-12, 06:04 PM
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I have to look into putting in a distribution box.

TomH,


Yes a d box. Because you only have two 500 gal tanks you
don't want to alternate with a bull run valve. The tanks are too small.

Put the d box if you can so they feed evenly, and get a hakko 40 pump with a split air line. And two of those air sticks I linked to in your other post. Then aerate both tanks.

Mike NJ


 
  #35  
Old 05-23-12, 08:03 PM
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Aeration doesn't seem to be working

Well, I decided to go ahead and give this aeration a try. I ordered the pump & aerator and installed it last Thursday in one of my drywells. The water level in the first drywell is low enough that the water doesn't flow to the second drywell. I dumped a bottle of cessflo in the drywell also. So far I see absolutely no change in water level. The only thing I have done differently, is I bought the larger pump & and one of the 9" disk aerators instead of the 12" stick aerator. I am going to try reducing the amount of air going into the drywell by placing a needle valve in line to bleed air . Maybe there is too much turbulence in it but I think I'm grasping at straws. Maybe I had more build up in my drywell than lawrosa. Maybe I just need to give it more time. OR maybe I wanted to believe it would work. Anyway it was ~$300 gamble but I'm glad I took it.

ETA: I wonder if it would do any good to rake the stone that are at the bottom of the drywell. I assume the biomat is in the soil not on the stone.
 

Last edited by TimH; 05-23-12 at 08:10 PM. Reason: add more infio
  #36  
Old 05-23-12, 09:46 PM
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How long has it been in there?

Your tanks have holes in the sides surrounded by gravel? Or is it closed and only the bottom is open?

Its not going to fix overnight. May take a few months.

Is it bubbling good?

You have a large pump are you aerating both pits?

Mike NJ
 
  #37  
Old 05-24-12, 02:59 PM
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Its only been in there a week. I know I'm being impatient. You seemed to get results relatively fast. I was hoping for the same.

Tanks have holes in the sides surrounded by gravel/stones.

YEs its bubbling quite well. Maybe even too well. The water inside is quite turbulent. I'm thinking about adding a bleed valve to reduce the amount of air going to the aerator. I bought the next size larger pump over yours (Hakko HK-40). I also bought the 9" disk aerator. Of course these are changes from your original design.

I'm only aerating 1 tank at this point. The tanks are in series. I'm aerating the tank that gets the effluent from the septic tank. The water isn't high enough in the first drywell to run into the 2nd drywell. The first drywell basically just keeps up with effluent coming in. It about 3' deep with about 30" of standing water in it. I also on a whim put some Roebic K57 in the second drywell to see what would happen. This is alos a aerobic bacteria treatment. It started with 2' of water in it 4 days ago. It still has 2 ' of water in it. I am not aerating that drywell though. I didn't want to spring for the extra $ in aeration in the second drywell if didn't work out in the first drywell.

My biggest problem is that I'm waiting on this to start other larger jobs around the house. If I can save $ form not having to replace my drywells I'll be happy as a pig in $hit. Unfortunately other jobs are waiting for results. The War Department ( AKA the Wife ) is getting a little restless not seeing things getting done I guess I just have to be patient and hope it works, We'll see.

lawrosa how is your septic system doing? You had grat results in a shot period of time. Is you system holding its own now?
 
  #38  
Old 05-24-12, 03:35 PM
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In the beginning before aeration I used Aid ox that made the water dissipate fast. I followed the treatment instructions. I got it from the local supply house.

No I don't want you to throw money away. You need to make your own decision if you want to use this stuff.

The stuff is expensive. Its like $60 bucks for a gallon of powder. I think its hydrogen peroxide. It increased aeration.

The original septic installer told me that its what the septic people use.

http://www.herchem.com/specs/aidox.pdf

The Roebic 57 is the same as cessflo. Its aerobic bacterial. The cess flo gives you more for the money IMO.

My system has been maintaining a 1 ft level the past month or so. I check it weekly. I need to check it when there is low water use. My water use is 3 showers daily, and one bath for the little one. Dish washer use once a day runs only 10 gallons. Heavy kitchen sink use. Plus normal bath sink use. Two toilets get flushed normal with 4 people. I would says toilets flushed 16 times total a day.

Washer is off septic.

So I would say we are dumping 200 gallons a day into the septic. 50 gallons per person.


I think your aeration is fine. Keep it running. They say smaller bubbles are best. I look down my port and its churning good also.

The aid ox when I added it in the beginning the while tank started bubbling and boiling like a post of boiling water. It was crazy looking. Thats when I first had issues. The water was gone in 3 days, but after a while the tank filled again.

In conclusion the aeration seems to be holding its own. I know it will work for you, just give it time. What I noticed in a few days right away was no smell. Smells like clean earthy water. So I know its going aerobic.

I have to check my posts and see when I started this whole thing. It was the beginning of the year I believe... Ha ha I cant recall. Probably because its working I am not worrying about it much.

I will try to post some pics next time I dip the tank.

I dont know what else I can tell you. ( I used septic seep also and that did not work well. Save your money if you see that advertised.)

Like I said aerobic cess flo to enhance the bubbler. And again aid ox is $$$ and I dont want to be responsible if you try it and it dont work.

This is where you start saying how much am I spending, and how much is a new pit?

Mike NJ
 
  #39  
Old 05-24-12, 04:04 PM
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Thanks for the reply Mike. I think someplace I read the Oxi-Clean is the same thing as Ad-Ox but I not positive about that. I think we use significantly less water than you. No kids just my wife and me. Not a lot of laundry. We have a front loader so that uses less water.
 
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Old 05-24-12, 04:12 PM
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No toilets running?

Do you have a filter on the outlet of the tank? I cant remember if you told me. You want to stop any solids from getting to the pits.

Mike NJ
 
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