piggyback plug replacement
#1
07-11-11, 11:27 PM
piggyback plug replacement
Sewer pump still works fine, just plug has corrosion, can I replace the plug? Can't seem to find it at big box store?
#2
07-12-11, 03:23 AM
I've never seen that plug either. You could splice the cords together with another old switch cord, but I would probably try to clean the plug or just buy a new switch.
#4
07-13-11, 01:57 PM
Plug comes up from the switch (I think), plugs into 220vAC outlet in top of septic unit. Back of that plug has recepticle to plug in the pump itself, therefore using just one 220v outlet. Handy design, actually. I've cleaned dozens of times, finally that's no longer working. I'm thinking now of getting just one new plug and wiring both cables in.
#5
07-13-11, 03:51 PM
I'm thinking now of getting just one new plug and wiring both cables in.
#6
07-13-11, 06:06 PM
Well, I still don't know what it looks like. But I know this: If you get corrosion on the plug, you also have corrosion in the receptacle even if you can't see it since it may be at the microscopic level. That's why cleaning doesn't work very well.
If you change one, change them both, else heat builds up and they will melt down potentially causing a fire.
Good luck.
If you change one, change them both, else heat builds up and they will melt down potentially causing a fire.
Good luck.
#7
07-14-11, 04:11 PM
Vey/Ray both are right I think. There's a 'can' out front for my septic system, long story short, front drain field clogged 10+ years ago. Sewer company installed new field in back yard, stuff pumped from front to back now. Electrical box is installed inside top of 'can', bottom of which has new tank. Moisture, etc is obviously an issue. Ican clean contacts, it'll be good for a month or two, then liquid will build to top of tank. I even have to 'form' contacts now when plugging back in to get good connections.
#8
07-14-11, 07:30 PM
Vey. a couple of piggyback plugs on this page.
UUI Products : NEMA 5-15P : NEMA 5-15R : United Universal Industries, Inc.
mwpayne, all electrical should be and is usually sealed from any moisture from pit.
UUI Products : NEMA 5-15P : NEMA 5-15R : United Universal Industries, Inc.
mwpayne, all electrical should be and is usually sealed from any moisture from pit.
#9
07-15-11, 05:07 AM
I don't think it is 220V. I don't think the UL would approve of this. Additionally, the building codes say that each 220 appliance gets it's own circuit and circuit breaker.
So, first we have to determine what kind of plug it is. Most of them have NEMA numbers that end in P (Plug) and R (Receptacle). Here is a chart of different kinds of plugs. NEMA Straight Blade Configurations Chart
and NEMA Configurations
Once we know what kind of plug it is (never-mind the piggyback) then we can source it, or something similar to it.
Scratch the splicing two wires together for one plug. That is not done in a workmanlike fashion.
Is there a "duplex" (2 holes) receptacle there now? And are both holes being used?
So, first we have to determine what kind of plug it is. Most of them have NEMA numbers that end in P (Plug) and R (Receptacle). Here is a chart of different kinds of plugs. NEMA Straight Blade Configurations Chart
and NEMA Configurations
Once we know what kind of plug it is (never-mind the piggyback) then we can source it, or something similar to it.
Scratch the splicing two wires together for one plug. That is not done in a workmanlike fashion.
Is there a "duplex" (2 holes) receptacle there now? And are both holes being used?
#10
07-15-11, 05:53 AM
P/N:306PR
NEMA 6-15R/15P Piggyback Plug
That's the one exactly. You'd think they would have run the cables into the garage like they did the alarm, but nope, put 'em right above all the crud. All I have to do now is order/find one and wire it up correctly. Any idea of a source? I really appreciate the help, guys. Oh, and the receptical only has ONE connection for one plug.
NEMA 6-15R/15P Piggyback Plug
That's the one exactly. You'd think they would have run the cables into the garage like they did the alarm, but nope, put 'em right above all the crud. All I have to do now is order/find one and wire it up correctly. Any idea of a source? I really appreciate the help, guys. Oh, and the receptical only has ONE connection for one plug.
#11
07-15-11, 08:10 AM
You have lots of options:
1. I've poked around on the 'net and I don't see one for sale. I've seen them before, but don't know where you can get one.
2. You have to change the receptacle anyway, so put in a duplex. Each appliance gets a hole. This is actually better because it means that all the power is not flowing through one set of blades.
3. You could get a short extension cord with a 3-way receptacle on the end. You want the orange ones that have a 1' long wire. I use these a lot when I am using two or three tools at once in close proximity.
You need to figure out a way to make this water resistant. They sell covers that are clear plastic and bulged out so that they stay resistant when things are plugged in. They are not expensive, but the ones I have seen are duplex and I don't know if a piggy back or extension cord would fit inside.
You should also use a GFCI receptacle. Chepaest ones I have found are available from Harbor Freight. $7, I think.
1. I've poked around on the 'net and I don't see one for sale. I've seen them before, but don't know where you can get one.
2. You have to change the receptacle anyway, so put in a duplex. Each appliance gets a hole. This is actually better because it means that all the power is not flowing through one set of blades.
3. You could get a short extension cord with a 3-way receptacle on the end. You want the orange ones that have a 1' long wire. I use these a lot when I am using two or three tools at once in close proximity.
You need to figure out a way to make this water resistant. They sell covers that are clear plastic and bulged out so that they stay resistant when things are plugged in. They are not expensive, but the ones I have seen are duplex and I don't know if a piggy back or extension cord would fit inside.
You should also use a GFCI receptacle. Chepaest ones I have found are available from Harbor Freight. $7, I think.
#12
07-15-11, 03:06 PM
SJE Rhombus sells 230v pumpmaster switches with the correct piggy back plug attached. If you want to bypass the piggyback plug and just use a 230v plug you can do this but it must be kept dry. Connect green wire from pump to ground terminal on plug. Connect one wire (black or white) from the pump to one of the hot terminals on the plug. Connect the other wire from the pump to one wire of the switch cord and connect the other wire from the switch cord to the other hot terminal on the plug. This must be kept dry though!! You could also skip the plug and outlet and just hard wire it directly using a sealed junction box. This is all assuming you have a 220v setup.
#14
07-20-11, 09:48 AM
piggy back plug needed
I'm having same issue with piggy back plug. A few posts have said you can bypass the piggyback by using a 3 way receptacle ect...... this is incorrect. Also, you should never use a GFI for a pump. GFI's are sensitive to water/humidity and the last thing you want is for that to keep "popping" when you need your pump the most.
The piggyback plug is necessary to operate the pump. If they were plugged in separately the pump would never turn off, when the float lowers it turns off power to the pump through the plug.
I'm having tough time finding the correct piggyback plug for my mound pump, it needs 4 wires. I have found the best way is to buy a float swith with the plug on it.
The piggyback plug is necessary to operate the pump. If they were plugged in separately the pump would never turn off, when the float lowers it turns off power to the pump through the plug.
I'm having tough time finding the correct piggyback plug for my mound pump, it needs 4 wires. I have found the best way is to buy a float swith with the plug on it.
#15
07-20-11, 03:10 PM
If you have four wires on your piggyback plug you might have a double float set-up and thats a whole different animal. Do you have two floats on one cord? The bottom is the off and the top float is the on float. A standard 220V single float has only two wires plus the ground. The switch basicly breaks one line of the 220 circuit. Agreed on the non-use of GFCI for a pump but codes say different. I guess you can get by having a GFCI outlet near the pit if someone has to work on it in some areas.
#16
07-21-11, 05:35 AM
I'm not an electrician, but I've never seen or heard of a GFCI receptacle, for NEMA 6 and I don't think that would be possible since it relies on a real ground, not a cheater to the neutral. I have heard of GFCI circuit breakers.
#17
07-21-11, 07:22 AM
True on the piggy back plug needed...when the corrosion is bad enough and the tank fills up I have to just plug the pump in seperately until drained enough, clean everything up, reinstall and hope it's all good for a while. Have to watch out for the black widow spiders, they love the enviroment in that area. Also, I honestly have no idea how to replace that switch..its WAY down in the tank, Not sure wife is strong enough to hold me by the ankles..May have to call the pros for that. $$$
#18
07-21-11, 02:03 PM
I'm not sure what your system looks like, but we usually try and put the switch(s) on a separate pipe that goes down to the bottom of the tank and gets attached to the side of the tank up top. If you ever have to change the switch just pull the pipe up. You could just leave your existing switch in there and start over.
