I have a deep well jet pump and a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the pump would turn on every 8 min. or so even though there was no water running in the house. I have a gauge between the pump and the tank that slowly drops from 58 psi to 35 psi. I shut the valve between the pump and the pressure tank and the pump started immediately for a second then shut off for a second then started for a second and so on. The gauge on the pump goes up and down rapidly (between 58 and 35 psi) as it turns on and off.

I timed it 3 days later and now it's 5 1/2 min. between cycles so it's getting worse and I need to do something fast!

I hate to think that it's a foot valve or something else down in the well. The previous owner of the house told me that the well is 200 ft. deep. To make things worse, the well "head" is buried somewhere in my front yard. He gave me a ball park (3 ft. radius) of where to start digging.

So can this problem be caused by anything on the pump itself or is it definitely something in the well? If it is in the well, is it something I can do myself. I am fairly mechanical and have done some plumbing around the house.

Any help is appreciated.

 

Hi,

If you can take a pic of your pump and the lines leading from it it will better help us try to identify your issue.

Post the pics to a place like photo bucket. Its free. Then post the link back here.

Mike NJ

 

Here are some pics.

 

Don't do that! When you close that valve, you are removing the pressure tank from the pump circuit and the pump will cycle rapidly... you can break stuff like that.

You've got a leak somewhere... that's the obvious part. The not so obvious part would be WHERE your leak is.

If you close the ball valve leading to the house, you can determine if the leak is in the house plumbing, or worse, a problem with the well... Closing that ball valve should not cause the rapid pump cycling. But you will be able to watch the gauge... if it still drops then the pressure loss is to the right side... unfortunate for you.

 

As trooper states shut off that yellow handle ball valve down by the tank drain. Then post back if you are still losing pressure.

Mike NJ

 

When I close the yellow ball valve it still cycles every 5 min. or so. Which tells me it's in the pump or the well. I already figured that out. What I need to do now is figure out if it's the pump or a leak somewhere in the well. There is nothing leaking in basement.

@ Trooper ~ I only did it for a few seconds just to troubleshoot. I can imaging the rapid cycling is a bad thing for the pump.

 

By the way... you should periodically check the air charge in the pressure tank... it should be set 2 PSI below the low cut in pressure of the pump.

To do so, AFTER the present problem is cured...

Turn off power to the pump.

Close the valve between the pump and the tank.

Close the ball valve between the house plumbing and the tank.

Open the drain valve on the tank tee (with a bucket or a hose! of course).

With an ACCURATE tire pressure gauge add air as needed to the Schrader valve on the top of the tank (under the plastic cap which threads off).

Reverse process to go back 'on-line'.

 

Don't see how the pump can figure in to this... you see no leaks... if you've got a leak, you would SEE it. Those old Myers pumps were fine equipment.

 

So what your saying Trooper is that it's a leak in the well somewhere?

 

Thanks I never did this. I will do it once I fix my problem.

So if my pump turns on once my pressure hits 34 psi the pressure in the tank with all the water drained out should be 32 psi right?

 

Yeah, sorry to say... that if you are losing pressure with the house shut off, and you see no leaks, then the problem is outside... but what exactly the problem is can't be known until some dirt is moved.

The idea with keeping the air charge slightly BELOW the cut in of the pump is that you don't ever want to completely empty the tank in normal operation. If you DID empty the tank, there would be a sudden pressure DROP in the system, followed by the pump engaging and causing a sudden pressure surge in the system...

So yes, if the low cut in is 34 then you want the tank pressure at 32. The thing to watch for though is that there could well be accuracy differences between the gauge on your system, and the gauge you use for setting the pressure in the tank.

But, too LITTLE air in the tank means that you don't have the full storage capacity of the tank, and the pump would cycle more often, and for shorter periods. The idea is that you will first draw water from the tank, then when the pressure gets to the low cut in, the pump comes on and refills the tank.

If there's any error in the gauges to be accounted for, it's better to err on the side of too little pressure in the tank. You don't want that tank to empty completely, ever. (EXCEPT when you are charging the air... you want the drain valve OPEN when you add air)

You may get some nasty looking residue out of the tank when it empties! Don't be too alarmed... that's more or less normal. It might not be a bad idea to 'flush' the tank a few times after you charge it. Keep the house valve shut, open the valve to the pump, turn pump on until it shuts off. Close pump side valve and shut off pump. Drain tank again through hose. Repeat until water comes out clean. Return to service.

After you get it all sorted out and are ready to charge the tank, watch the gauge after you do so. When you draw water, you see the gauge go down... if as it's approaching the cut in of the pump if you see it suddenly drop to zero just before the pump cuts in, you will know that you have a too much air in the tank... let a bit out... and try again.

 

Thanks trooper. I guess I will start diggin'. This will be an experience. I do have a good plumber that knows wells if I get in over my head.

 

What I believe you have is the ejector down in the well. It may be just the foot valve. You beed to find the well head and pull the line.

I just did mine. But I am one pipe well.

Well head pictures by lawrosa - Photobucket


Here are pics for reference to show a two pipe system.

http://www.valco-costenaro.com/nuovi..._Jet_Pumps.pdf

Mike NJ

 

Mike,

I started digging and got down about 18" and hit some 2x6s pulled them up to reveal the bottom of a polly drum. That's as far as I got. I do recall the previous owner telling me about this set up. So I'm on the right track.

My wife noticed that between the hole I was digging and the house in the flower bed the ground was saturated with water and it hasn't rained much for a couple of days. So what I am thinking is that there is a hole or crack in the line from the house to the well. And that's where it's losing pressure.

The bad thing is that those lines are probably 3 1/2 or 4 ft. deep and under my flower bed. But I'll do what I have to.

Thanks again for the help. I'll post back how it turns out.

 

Before you do all that digging make sure you check all your options.

The pipes from the pump look large and it may be possible to run a new line inside them.

Or you can pull new lines without digging using a pipe swedge and cable.

Or you can dig where its leaking and repair the leak.

You may want to install a pitless adapter and bring the well head up also. There is alot you probably should do but it costs money.

I did not install the pitless and bring it up above grade because the parts alone were like $500 bucks. Just doing what I did with my well, seal, clamps, ft valve was $100 bucks.

Mike NJ