I recently notice my water pump was running constantly both after showering and at odd times in the night when water consumption was minimal. After doing a little research I thought I had determined the problem to be the old water pressure tank. So I replaced it with a new 20 gallon tank. I checked my pump switch and found that the cut-in pressure is 40 and dose not list the cut out pressure. The old gauge on the pump reads 50psi, however I believe that it is broken.

After installing the tank @ the factory set 28 psi I ran the system. After more research I found that the tank needed to be @ 38psi (is this correct?) I have added pressure and still have the same problem.

Water pressure is worse then before (running the toilet and a shower is almost impossible)

What am I missing here?
Thank You

 

I think the first thing you need to do is fix the gauge. Without a functioning gauge you are shooting ducks in the dark.

Something to know about the pressure tanks: You can't check or adjust the pressure on the air side when there is ANY pressure on the water side. So before checking and adjusting you need to shut the pump off an relieve any water pressure in the system.

The pressure switch is usually set up for a 20 PSI differential, meaning if it's 40 ON, it should be 60 OFF ...

fix that gauge!

By the way, was there water in the old tank after you got it disconnected? i.e. HEAVY, and sloshing around?

Hope this helps...

 

There was water in the tank.
How do I relieve pressure from the tank? Do I have to disconnect the water line and drain the tank or just shut the pump off and run a faucet?

 

A new pressure tank will not solve the problem of your pump running continuously or running when you are not using water. First I would check for a leak. Install a new pressure gauge then make sure nothing in the house is using water (all faucets closed, toilet tanks filled, no RO water filter or water softener regenerating...) and watch the pressure gauge. If the pressure falls when not using water you've probably got a leak somewhere.

A pump running continuously could also be a pressure switch problem. Sometimes the nipple leading to the switch and the small orifice to the switch can become clogged with sediment or rust. It's also possible that the switch is failing.

If you had said the water would occasionally stop or loose pressure for a second every now and then when showering I would look at the pressure tank. It's job is to smooth out the water flow/pressure and help prevent the pump from quickly cycling on and off.

 

Installed new gauge. After the pump running for 30min the pressure reads 55psi?
With a 40psi cut in, cut out should be 60. what is causing the system not to reach the cut out?

 

1. Your gauge may not be accurate (and neither are many inexpensive tire pressure gauges).

2. Well pump pressure switches are not high precision devices. The 40 to 60 printed on the box I think of as a "general" guideline. Your switch may also not be cutting in at exactly 40 psi. If it seems to be working it's no big deal. If it bugs you just drape a rag over the gauge so you can no longer see it. If it really bugs you many pressure switches allow you to adjust their on & off pressures by turning the nut located under the plastic cap. Make sure you turn off the power to your well pump. When you remove the plastic cover you are looking at live, high voltage contacts and believe me if you bump them with your wrench it will make a really bright flash and a loud "pop".

 

I don't think I need to emphasize this, but I'm going to anyway:

WARNING! 240 VAC INSIDE THE PRESSURE SWITCH! YOU CAN BE KILLED!

Don't leave the pump running if it won't reach cut out!

There could be other factors at play. Your pump could be worn... old worn out jet pumps sometimes can't make 60 PSI. You may end up having to go to 30-50... or less. (experts, please expand on reasons why can't reach cut off)

One thing to know about the pressure switches... they have a 'limited' range of adjustment. You may, or may not, be able to accurately adjust the switch to much more than say 10 PSI different from what it is manufactured for. I believe that the spring may be different... (experts, please confirm or deny!)

Follow-up edit: This instruction sheet from Square D says nothing about limited range of adjustment... but does include instructions for setting the switch up:

http://static.schneider-electric.us:...013-005-39.pdf

You understand that there are TWO adjustments on those pressure switches? And you need to go back and forth between the two adjustments several times before it's set correctly? (especially if the screws have been turned willy nilly caddy wompus over the years.)

Is there one pipe, or two, into your well?

If you had water in the tank after it was disconnected, it needed to be replaced anyway, so you did do the right thing there. It means the bladder was leaking.

Yes. Leave the faucet open. As an alternate, if there's a shutoff on the line between the house and the tank and a drain on the tank tee, you can shut off the valve leading to the house and open the drain on the tank tee. You just need to relieve the pressure off the water side.

 

Lots of good tech info here:

http://static.schneider-electric.us:...9013DB0701.pdf

 

Good Catch NJ. I totally missed the "running for 30 minutes".

 

Have checked everything and found the switch would stick after I shut off the power. With the pressure at 52 and power off I can get the switch to switch off and stay off until I turn the water on an the pressure drops. It sounds to me the switch is sticking. However my pump won't reach 60 psi what I presume the shut off is

 

The pressure switch is purely a mechanical device. The power being on or off has nothing to do with it's operation. So, if the switch is closed (pump on) it will stay closed if you turn off the power. The only thing that should make it open (turn pump off) is reaching it's cut out pressure.

At the minimum you should adjust the switch's cut in and out pressures so the pump will shut off otherwise the constant running will burn up your pump. They also make pressure switches with different pressure ranges. You could use a lower pressure switch like 30-50 or even 20-40. None of this changes the fact that your pump cannot reach a higher pressure but it will help prolong the life of the pump.

 

What do you mean by "I can get the switch to switch off" ? How? Do you push on it or something?

Like Dane said, it's a mechanical thing. If your pump can only get to 52 PSI, then that may be all you can get out of it... I'm not saying there's not something else wrong, there could be... but if it's an older pump, you might have to 'settle'.

Read the attachments I posted. There's a lot of good information in them.

Take a 3/8 nutdriver. Turn the nut on the big spring 3 turns counter clockwise and see if the pump now shuts off at a slightly lower pressure. See if you can get it to shut off at 50 PSI. Don't touch the small screw. If that small screw hasn't been 'messed with', the pump should cut in at 30 PSI.

You will have to adjust your air charge on the pressure tank down to 28.

 

By the way... I asked:

...you didn't answer.