Sand point well not priming
#1
07-15-12, 02:22 PM
Join Date: Jul 2012
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Sand point well not priming
Hi,
I have recently installed a sand point well in my basement. This is my first time at this and I am doing something wrong.
I have a three foot sand point attachment attached to 14 feet of 1 1/4 inch galvanized piping which is then connected to the check valve. This then leads into the 1/2 HP SJC 312 series jet pump. I have five feet of standing water in the pipe.
I have primed the pump through the top priming hole yet I am unable to pull water from the sand point. I have done this 20 or so times on a couple of occasions and have had no success. I have checked my lines in the ground and there are no air leaks. I have not attempted to fill the 14 feet of suction line with water as I assume this will just dissipate as fast as I can pour it in.
Any suggestions as to what I am doing wrong.
Appreciate it.
I have recently installed a sand point well in my basement. This is my first time at this and I am doing something wrong.
I have a three foot sand point attachment attached to 14 feet of 1 1/4 inch galvanized piping which is then connected to the check valve. This then leads into the 1/2 HP SJC 312 series jet pump. I have five feet of standing water in the pipe.
I have primed the pump through the top priming hole yet I am unable to pull water from the sand point. I have done this 20 or so times on a couple of occasions and have had no success. I have checked my lines in the ground and there are no air leaks. I have not attempted to fill the 14 feet of suction line with water as I assume this will just dissipate as fast as I can pour it in.
Any suggestions as to what I am doing wrong.
Appreciate it.
#2
07-15-12, 03:24 PM
Group Moderator
You have a check valve on the pipe, right? A check valve prevents water in the standpipe (and pump) from all draining away into the ground. The setup I have in my garden has an attachment for a garden hose, which I run full blast at the same time as I turn the pump on. I open the bleeder valve to help bleed off any air inside the pump. At some point it will finally create enough suction to fill the standpipe and start pumping. Once it's primed you don't usually have any problems after that.
It can't hurt to prime the standpipe with water prior to putting the check valve on, and putting everything together.
It can't hurt to prime the standpipe with water prior to putting the check valve on, and putting everything together.
#3
07-15-12, 05:08 PM
"I have primed the pump through the top priming hole yet I am unable to pull water from the sand point."
To prime a pump properly, you have to fill all the pipe to the check valve or foot valve, then fill the body and then turn the pump on. Now, if the check valve is near the pump, you will have a hard time. You will have to do this over and over as the water works it up a couple of feet at a time.
If you have a suction side leak, you will never prime the pump properly. To see if you have a leak, you can't just eyeball it. While the Mk I eyeball is good for many things, it is no good at seeing suction side leaks.
So, to detect a suction side leak, you need shaving cream. You need a shaving cream that is rather thick, like Barbasol. Slather the shaving cream around the fittings, one at a time, then prime it and turn the pump on. Take your time, and swivel you head all around.
What you are looking for is a dimple in the cream. If you don't see it, then move to the next. Take your time.
Also, if you use PVC, the glue can says the joint is good in 2 hours. Don't believe it. I have found that it takes 12 hours or more to make a tight fitting, especially on the suction side. Else, I get suction leaks.
To prime a pump properly, you have to fill all the pipe to the check valve or foot valve, then fill the body and then turn the pump on. Now, if the check valve is near the pump, you will have a hard time. You will have to do this over and over as the water works it up a couple of feet at a time.
If you have a suction side leak, you will never prime the pump properly. To see if you have a leak, you can't just eyeball it. While the Mk I eyeball is good for many things, it is no good at seeing suction side leaks.
So, to detect a suction side leak, you need shaving cream. You need a shaving cream that is rather thick, like Barbasol. Slather the shaving cream around the fittings, one at a time, then prime it and turn the pump on. Take your time, and swivel you head all around.
What you are looking for is a dimple in the cream. If you don't see it, then move to the next. Take your time.
Also, if you use PVC, the glue can says the joint is good in 2 hours. Don't believe it. I have found that it takes 12 hours or more to make a tight fitting, especially on the suction side. Else, I get suction leaks.
