To fill or not to fill. That is the question


  #1  
Old 07-17-12, 12:59 PM
N
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
To fill or not to fill. That is the question

Seriously, I have a weird one. I have a 4" deep well, supposedly around 350' to 400', the previous owner was not to sure. It has a Franklin Controller 1.5hp new in 2009, a replacement to a previous Franklin 1.5hp that had rusted out. I know that because I bought and installed the replacement. I am unsure of the pump manufacturer although I would assume Franklin as well. The Well was I am told deepened the year before we bought the place but they left no documentation and it may have just been a selling ploy.

Recently, we have had a number of power outages, 5 in the last month. Since then, the pump has been behaving weird. Sometimes it will come on and fill the tank, other times it will come on and nothing, no water just noise. Today (am) I was lucky, now (pm) I am not and yesterday not at all.

On taking off the Control box cover off I found the terminal block buried in a large dirt dobber nest with larvae growing in those 5 holes, two of which are used to screw the terminal block to the case. I cleaned those out.

I have checked at the Control Box that the motor is grounded. I get no readings across R,Y,B against the ground G.

I have checked the motor windings, I assume that's what they are, the wires going down the pipe to the pump. I get R-Y = 9.4, R-B = 11.3, and Y-B =2.7

I got that idea from a previous post. Thank you but I'm not sure what they mean, somebody said check, I checked.

Anyone got any ideas. I'm not sure I want to pull or have the pump pulled if it's something I haven't checked first.
 
  #2  
Old 07-17-12, 01:47 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 36,608
Upvotes: 0
Received 9 Upvotes on 8 Posts
Welcome to the forums! Where does power for the pump come in. Is this an isolated well pump house? Do you have line power to the control panel? If not, and you have cleaned out the box, it must be at the breaker source, wherever that is. The voltages you were getting with a digital meter were phantom voltage. If you want accurate readings use an analog meter.
 
  #3  
Old 07-17-12, 02:35 PM
N
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
This is an isolated system, power is good to the control box, pump runs, just pumps water some of the time, not all. H'mmm yes you are right. I did use a digital multimeter. Where to find an analog says I. I have to hunt around for that one and get back
 
  #4  
Old 07-17-12, 04:01 PM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 36,608
Upvotes: 0
Received 9 Upvotes on 8 Posts
Let us know what the voltage values are with the pump running, too. You should have zero on the load wires to the pump with it not running. I know you don't want to pull the pump, but it is sounding more and more like it is either trash in the motor/foot valve or a failed motor. With that depth, I am assuming the motor is in the well.
 
  #5  
Old 07-17-12, 04:33 PM
V
Vey
Vey is offline
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mid-Florida
Posts: 1,201
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
My I suggest something? There is a type of meter called a "clamp on" amp meter that sees what amount of power the pump is drawing.

These used to be expensive, and you can still spend a lot buying one, but Harbor Freight and others sells them for less than $20. While I wouldn't want to rely on one for a living, they are pretty good for small situations like this.

You can clamp the meter on anywhere along the way, such as in the breaker box, the controller box or anywhere you can get some wire, so you can see how much amperage the pump is using. Basing my estimate on most pumps, if it's not pulling at least 10 amps while pumping water, something is wrong with it and it needs to get pulled.
 
  #6  
Old 07-18-12, 04:38 AM
Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: United States
Posts: 13,759
Received 676 Upvotes on 573 Posts
I had a similar issue with a submersible pump but mine did not have a controller. I put a clamp on meter like Vey suggested and found the amps being drawn was very high (around 22 amps) indicating the rotor was locking up. This would come and go until motor finally failed and I put in a new pump. Pump was only about 5 years old and found what caused the well to fail was the pressure tank was waterlogged.
 
  #7  
Old 07-18-12, 11:14 AM
N
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
yes, 10 amps (clamp on meter) showing when motor is running. capacitors ok, relay ok.

What we did hear this time is water running back out of the tank down the well so I'm suspecting the check valve has failed. It looks old, so the pump could be losing it's prime? each time it happens, which of course is not all the time. Off to town to see if I can find an inline check valve with two extra tapped holes, for pressure switch and what looks like a bicycle valve.

Let you know if that works
 
  #8  
Old 07-19-12, 09:11 AM
N
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 4
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Well, haha, that was a waste of time. This am, the tank still has a little pressure, 15psi indicated, but all I get from the pump is noise.
 
  #9  
Old 07-19-12, 01:12 PM
V
Vey
Vey is offline
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mid-Florida
Posts: 1,201
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
If you are getting pressure at all, the pump is doing something. Have you tried resetting the tank?

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/we...well-info.html

second post down.

And when you use the clamp on, check both hot sides. Then just leave it on there when you make changes. It doesn't hurt anything to leave it hanging.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: